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Any and all help is appreciated. VERY appreciative of Ldn's Troubleshooting guide. Excellent breakdown. Just having trouble on where to go from here.

2003 CBR 600rr. Just notified and recovered from being stolen 7 years ago and sitting in tow yard after 1.5 years (long story). Added new battery, gauge cluster lights up, tachometer goes through normal process, no fuel pump prime. Starter will turn over. Headlights and turn signals all work appropriately. Horn works appropriately.

Steps I have tried:
-Fuse next to battery new and meter tested appropriately. Fuses next to relays on left side new and tested appropriately.
-When kill switch is engaged/disengaged there is appropriate clicking of relay audible and palpable but no fuel pump prime. Have actually meter/volt tested all relays and they appropriately click when 12v applied.
-Disconnected and separately bypassed bank angle sensor still no fuel pump prime. Reconnected BAS, still no change.
-Removed fuel pump from tank and when 12v applied to pump it runs appropriately. When hooked back up in circuit nothing.
-Bypassed kickstand sensor without any success.
-Have not tried the neutral position indicator bypass. I don't quite understand how to bypass. Neutral light all appears to work appropriately when in neutral and light goes off when taken out of gear.

The thieves spliced in underbody LED strips to the wiring harness at different places so I am almost at a point to start looking for a wiring harness hoping there is a short somewhere along it. Picture is of cluster with key on after tach goes through its process. Red light at top and FI indicator on bottom will disapear if kill switch alternated on/off.

Any brilliant ideas?

224617
 

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From the steps you've taken it's obvious that the fuel pump is not getting the signal to start up. You can verify that by checking voltage at the pump plug on the bike side. If voltage is present your pump is bad.

It's almost certainly not a short in the harness as this would not exhibit only these symptoms. Mostly that just blows a fuse.

Make 100% sure you jumped the BAS correctly as this would exhibit exactly these symptoms. Take a small wire and jump the plug on the bike side. The two outside connectors I believe.

Ditto for the sidestand switch, though I think the pump primes with it down. It just won't turn over.

When attempting to start pull the clutch in. Not necessary on these models but I had a bike that gave me fits only by accident I discovered it would only start with the clutch in. Seems the PO put in a different clutch safety switch. If the clutch is releasing the little button on the clutch safety switch the bike will think it's in neutral so no need to go any further on that.

I've read, though never experienced myself, where a pump would power up outside of the tank but not in the tank. Same principal as a very weak fan: it will turn but even the slightest obstruction stops it. A pump swap would be a way to verify that.

One thing I'd do is turn the ignition on and start groping around the wiring. If a wonky connection suddenly got made you'd hear your pump priming.
 

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Thanks so much! I’ll give these options a try when I get a chance over the next couple days. Might be a little slow but will definitely get to it.
 

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Double checked the bank angle sensor & bypassing. Adjusted several times, non luck.

Little more information. Pretty obvious that this pump has been messed with before (different harness plugs than others) which makes me most suspicious of the pump. When I check the bike side of harness I get 12 volts from the red wire & 6 volts from the yellow wire. This is the point where things get interesting. If I check continuity (ohming out) of each lead (red or yellow at the pump harness plug) and touch ANY piece of metal (outside of assembly, inside of assembly, metal frame within assembly, metal surface of the pump) I get continuity. This would mean the whole assembly is grounded and makes sense as to why it will not work?

Anyone have a pump assembly for 2003 or know if compatible with any other OEM numbers? 16700-MEE-013 being my stock. Didn't know if folks are going for aftermarket/improved pumps or if other models are swappable. The aftermarkets also seem to have different connector styles. Sure hate to pay $500 for OEM but guess I may be stuck.
 

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If you can't trust that the pump is good everything else becomes guesswork.

Did a quick check on eBay. Surprised that pumps for these models are kinda rare and hence expensive vs. later models.

There's a new one there for $400. Search "NOS OEM Honda 2004 CBR600 RR Gas Fuel Pump"

If nothing else you can look at the photos to see what your wiring should look like.

I don't know anything about aftermarket. For fuel pumps I'd stick with Honda OEM.
 

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Removed fuel pump from tank and when 12v applied to pump it runs appropriately. When hooked back up in circuit nothing.

Assuming you did this correctly (and it sounds like you did) the problem exists in the harness. There are half a dozen different reasons you will fail to get fuel pump priming.

I have a 2005. On the 2005 there is a red looking connector you can open and jump to get fault codes to display. I'd imagine it is the same on your's. Do this, record the fault codes with your phone, and play them back while looking at a service manual. This will give you some idea of what is happening.

Given the harness was spliced I would start at where it was spliced and work backwards. If you have a Hayne's manual you can locate the wires and trace them. Take your tail fairing off and check the master ground connector (usually a yellow plastic thing). Mine was fried due to previous owner's electrical work and I required a replacement harness. That center wire on the harness looks cut which is concerning. @Bat-1 suggests replacing with OEM however there are high quality aftermarkets you can replace it with that will work fine and save you money. You could also attempt a wire repair yourself.

While unlikely - it's possible the BAS is loose/dirty/faulty and so while you have the nose off check it according to the service manual.

If you're up to it get the actual honda service manual and follow their ECU testing procedure. You'll want to insure your ECM is still good. The process for checking continuity is simple but tedious. Take your time and have a piece of paper handy to note which connections in the ECU side of the harness you have checked. There was one time I had a dirty fuel injector connector which, somehow, stopped me from getting fuel pump prime. Remember a lot of things on these harnesses share wires somewhere in the harness.


If you can't find the fault your best bet is probably to replace your harness. This can be done dirt cheap with an ebay harness. Squids wreck these bikes all the time so you should be able to find a used one for between $200-$350. Maybe cheaper if you can find a guy parting his bike out on craigslist.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ended up having to buy a new fuel pump assembly to rule out that as a cause. Will update when arrived and tested.
 

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Long process but fuel pump was bad (1) and their had spliced in new ignition that had 9 volt battery used in place of zener diode (2). Took an excessive amount of time to figure this out because there were a ton of wires and underbody lights as part if this wiring. On the hunt currently for OEM ignition/tank/box/key set.
 

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(y) for sticking with it to find the problem. And thanks for letting us know.

Should be able to find a lock set for this on eBay. Don't shy away from buying one without a key if you have to. I've had many keys made by bringing the ignition to my local locksmith. If he can read they code on the outside of the cylinder he charges me $35 for a set of keys. If he can't it's $65.

Avoid the Chinese knock-offs for around $25. Bought one once. Build quality is atrocious. I ended up not using it. I can make you a real deal on one ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep pulled all the BS off. Have it figured out to this point. Will Fire up but want to put new fluids before anything.
 
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