How to: APE or other adjustable cam chain tensioner install - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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How to: APE or other adjustable cam chain tensioner install

Alright guys. It's posted on other forums but I didn't see one on here so I thought I would post a how-to on this. Hondas are well-known for engine ticking and it's always been the cam chain tensioner. For as long as the CBR as been around, it's cam chain tensioner has been junk and Honda has yet to do anything about it. Even the new bikes have the same problem so what can you do? Buy this adjustable one from APE racing. It's a great product and makes life very easy.

http://cbrzone.com/sprockets.html

(All pictures were taken from google, so thanks to their owners)

First you will have to remove the right side mid fairing. Then remove the tool box that sits in the frame. After that you should end up with something like this, with the OEM tensioner visable.



Unlike the F4i and earlier CBR600s, our tensioner is very accesable. However, I found it hard to get the needed torque to remove the allen bolts with an allen key, and there wasn't enough room for a T-handle. So I highly recommend getting a 5mm 3/8" drive socket. (I believe it's 5mm, but I'm going by memory here so it could be a 6mm, but I'm 90% sure it's 5mm.)



Next, remove the two allen head bolts which you can clearly see in this picture.



Removed the old tensioner and take out your APE Racing Adjustable Tensioner.



Loosen the lock-nut, and back the bolt out as far out as it will go. The dimpled, non-bolt head side is what goes in the motor, so don't try to jam the bolt head into the motor lol.

After you back off the bolt, make sure the OEM gasket is still in place, or use a LIGHT coating of RTV silicone. Then install the new tensioner and torque the allen bolts back down (I don't have the exact specs on hand, but tighten them without going muscle-milk on them.)

Now the fun part...tuning it. Tighten the big middle bolt on the tensioner until it is hand tight and you feel some pressure on the chain. Start the bike and give it a few revs to where you were hearing the chain rattle, most likely between 4-6. Turn off the bike. Tighten the tensioner bolt in small increments and retest untill you're rattle is gone. You don't want it too tight, so a little rattle is ok. A little loose is better than too tight. After you find the sweet spot make sure you remember to tighten the lock-nut as well.

There you go.


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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 02:27 PM
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thanks man.....

I was working on my bike and am getting ready to put a ape tensioner on myself, and now i know how without flaw. thanks
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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 03:39 PM
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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 03:45 PM
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very nice, might have to do this cause that ticking sure is annoying as hell

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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 03:51 PM
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whats a toolbox? why is that area called a toolbox?
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3DS2K View Post
whats a toolbox? why is that area called a toolbox?
lol...When you pull your fairing off the OEM tool compartment is behind the fairing blocking the tensioner. I'm not sure if this is true on the 07-up, but I'm fairly certain it's similiar.


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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bad06rr View Post
lol...When you pull your fairing off the OEM tool compartment is behind the fairing blocking the tensioner. I'm not sure if this is true on the 07-up, but I'm fairly certain it's similiar.
wtf i dont have any tools there? anyone have pictures?
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 04:04 AM
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HAHHA you got jacked for your tools ;)
The bikes come with pretty much a tool to fix most parts that you may need to fix on the side of the road.
You can change your tire. Change your suspension. Remove your fairings.... all Kinds of funn things with the tool kit :)
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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 05:01 AM
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HAHHA you got jacked for your tools ;)
The bikes come with pretty much a tool to fix most parts that you may need to fix on the side of the road.
You can change your tire. Change your suspension. Remove your fairings.... all Kinds of funn things with the tool kit :)
i have an 08 RR
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 11:30 AM
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I might be mistaken, but I think that 06+ didnt come with a toolkit. All you get is a strap for the helmet lock and an allen wrench.
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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 11:36 AM
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hmm never knew that... I guess its 07+ that dont have them because I'm pretty sure the 06's did
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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 01:58 PM
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yep all i have a a lid strap and an hex wrench. and this is all located in the rear
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post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Well toolkit aside, the tensioner install should be the same.


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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 08:17 PM
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sounds good. now how tight are you suppose to make the manual tensioner?
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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-10-2009, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R3DS2K View Post
sounds good. now how tight are you suppose to make the manual tensioner?
Like I said, there's no perfect setting. Just tighten the bolt down by hand. Start your bike, and rev it to where you were having chain rattle, most likely around 4-6 rpm. Then turn it off, and tighten in small increments and retest untill your rattle is gone. You don't want it too tight though, a little rattle is better than too tight.


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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-17-2009, 07:42 PM
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good writeup, waiting for my pc3, and my k&N air filter, then ill install my ape chain tensioner all at the same time.

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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010, 04:30 AM
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If you have the bike idling and rev it to around 4-6k and hear a chain like noise would this be the tensioner or the chain? Bike has 30000km (23k miles)

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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-14-2010, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kris View Post
If you have the bike idling and rev it to around 4-6k and hear a chain like noise would this be the tensioner or the chain? Bike has 30000km (23k miles)

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more than likely the tensioner at the mileage your at as thats when i replaced mine

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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2011, 05:13 PM
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Ok, so I just installed my APE tensioner and I'm in the process of adjusting it. As I slowly tightened it in small increments, the rattle seems to have gone away but now I'm hearing a pronounced whine coming from that area of the engine. Is this normal and I just never noticed it before or does that mean that its too tight? I got it hand tight, and then throughout the adjustment, tightened it maybe another full turn or so. Anyone have a ballpark amount for it to be tightened? I just want to make sure it's not too tight.
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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2011, 06:09 PM
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Nevermind. I backed the bolt out and readjusted.
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-04-2011, 01:23 AM
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Good writeup! I will be doing this soon!

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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-01-2011, 09:14 PM
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i was curious about this sound so i took my bike to a shop and told me is was the hydraulic cam chain tensioner, said it was about $90 and they would charge me about $65 to change it in about 2 hrs. im glad i saw this cause this looks easy enough to do myself. i have a 07 with 13,000 mi and was wondering what i should go with, the hydraulic one or the manual one? seems like the manual one is least likey to fail you but i dunno.
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 03:16 AM
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Is it still the cam if I only hear this at idle? When I rev my motor the tick goes away .

Id rather sweat then blead
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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 08:27 PM
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Did you have to time the engine up or check timing after installation?
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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ26 View Post
Did you have to time the engine up or check timing after installation?
I didn't. I just did the bolt up with my fingers until I felt tension. Then started the bike, and listened for the rattle, and SLOWLY turned it in until the rattle was gone, then backed it of a little.

Worked fine.

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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 06:36 AM
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Is there a difference in quality between the APE and no-brand CNC manual cam chain tensioner?
I notice that the APE is slightly dearer and doesn't come with gasket.
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ26 View Post
Is there a difference in quality between the APE and no-brand CNC manual cam chain tensioner?
I notice that the APE is slightly dearer and doesn't come with gasket.
Pretty sure mine came with a gasket.

Edit: Yep, it did. https://instagram.com/p/56ysjvo80H/

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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 03:30 PM
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Yeah it doesn't look like an ape one.
Gasket and instruction not included with ape.
Still working good no leaks?

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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ26 View Post
Yeah it doesn't look like an ape one.
Gasket and instruction not included with ape.
Still working good no leaks?
Strange. Could have sworn it said APE. Ooh well. Running fine, no leaks. Had to wait ages for shipping from US. Was same price as the APE.

Your right, it was from impala66k on eBay. $69AUD + Shipping.

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Last edited by OzMoto; 11-28-2015 at 03:59 PM.
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 05:06 PM
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