My bike was making a weird rattle noise. At first I didn’t know what it was. I searched the forums and everyone said it was probably the Cam Chain Tensioner. The noise did sound like it was coming from that area. I would have liked to change it out a few weeks ago when I checked my valves since the camshaft cover was off, but this still seemed like it worked ok. I don’t know how many people are hearing the engine noise or how many miles they have on my bike, but I have a little over 37,000 and I noticed the noise around 33,000 miles. Not sure how many ’03 to ’06 bikes have started making the rattle, but hopefully this will help.
I did this write up combining a post made by bad06rr (hope you don’t mind that I copied and pasted a lot) and Jdub916 from CBRWorld.net . I quoted their other posts and made minimal grammatical corrections. Much thanks to them as their posts really helped me. This “How To” was made to show a few more pictures and make it a little more detailed. If people feel that it is a repost please feel free to delete or move. Comments, advice, and criticism are all appreciated.
1. Remove right mid fairing. Then remove the toolbox out of the way by removing the fairing stay mounted to the frame (10mm bolt). Some people have asked what the tool box is; here it is in the picture. My bike (‘06) did not really come with any tools, just a 5mm Allen wrench and the helmet strap thing which I keep under my passenger eat anyways.
2. The OEM CCT is visible (when you move the foam/rubber dust cover out of the way). Remove both 5mm hex bolts using a 5mm Allen wrench. I tried using my socket adapter but it did not fit. So I had to use a slightly longer hex tool since it was kind of tight. After loosening the two bolts, I found it was much faster to remove them the rest of the way using the longer end of the Allen wrench that has a ball end.
3. Remove the OEM CCT.
4. With the APE CCT: “Loosen the lock-nut, and back the bolt out as far out as it will go. Make sure the rubber ring is about halfway too because if it’s sealed in the CCT already it’s hard to tighten the tensioner bolt. The dimpled, non-bolt head side is what goes in the motor, so don't try to jam the bolt head into the motor lol. After you back off the bolt, make sure the OEM gasket is still in place, or use a LIGHT coating of RTV silicone. Then install the new tensioner and torque the Allen bolts back down (I don't have the exact specs on hand, but tighten them without going muscle-milk on them.)” The torque is actually 9.8 N•m (1.0 kgf•m, 7lbf•Ft).
5. “Now the fun part...tuning it. Tighten the big middle bolt on the tensioner until it is hand tight. You feel some pressure on the chain then back it out a 1/4 of a turn. Start the bike and give it a few revs to where you were hearing the chain rattle, most likely between 4000-6000 RPM. Turn off the bike. Tighten the tensioner bolt in small increments and retest until your rattle is gone. Both the bolt and lock-nut are 5/8 inch. You don't want it too tight, so a little rattle is ok. A little loose is better than too tight. After you find the sweet spot make sure you remember to tighten the lock-nut as well.” I had to actually go for a test ride to make sure. I just left the fairing off, went for a ride, came back and decided to tighten it a little more.
6. I used some LocTite on the lock bolt. Not sure if it’s necessary but I like to think it will help. Tighten lock all the way, reinstall toolbox and right fairing and you are done.
Conclusion: Happy news. The noise went away. No more rattle. After removing the fairing and toolbox, the install takes less than 5 minutes. It might take a little longer if you use some silicone to make a gasket. After that you just adjust it to our liking. If anyone needs more pictures or larger pictures please let me know and I will try to post them.
PS: Next week I will probably be synchronizing the throttle bodies. Would anyone want a write up or is it unnecessary because there is already enough information available? Either way let me know.