How To - Fix Headlights Not "Turning On" Issue - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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How To - Fix Headlights Not "Turning On" Issue

Before seeking the resolution below, thoroughly check the fuses for the headlights located on the left side of the mid fairing (see image below). This guide is specifically created for 2003-2006 CBR600RR. Newer model bike may or may not applied. Stable hands and soldering experience is required, failure to have this will result in a short on other electrical components.



Problem: Both headlights do not turn on when the key is at the "ON" position or after the engine has started and running. High beam headlight doesn't respond when the high beam button is pressed. On the initial start-up of the gauges, the high beam light indicator is lit, but stayed off.

Cause: Solder point or headlight fuse is broken.

Tools Required:
  • Philip Screw Driver
  • Soldering Iron (Fry's, Radio Shack)
  • Soldering Lead with Flux (Fry's, Radio Shack)
  • Tweezers
  • An additional person to hold the device in place while soldering.
Procedure:

1. Remove the 2 screws located on the bottom of the "start" button housing.





2. Carefully open the housing and unscrew the silver screw.



3. Once the metal plate is removed, check to see if any of the 3 wires are disconnected. Make sure to wiggle the wires to confirm that the connection is solid. It may appeared that the soldering joint are connected, but in fact, it may not. The headlight wire is colored red/black.



4. Next, remove the wire clamp screw (1) along with the screw that hold the "start" button in place (2). Take a careful look at how the wire clamp is assembled, the housing will not snap together if done incorrectly. The plastic tab underneath the metal clap may break off.



5. Carefully remove the "start" button from the housing to expose the electrical component and to ease the job of soldering.





6. Plug in your soldering iron and let it warm up to the operating temperature (2-3 minute). Using an additional hand to hold the button, melt the solder core/lead onto the contact point shown in red and let it cool. Note: if the solder core has flux (solder glue, yellow looking liquid when melted), it will stick very easily without any effort.



7. With one hand holding the headlight wire, while the other holding the soldering iron, melt the solder ball done in step 6 and insert the headlight wire into the liquid solder. Once the connection is secured, pull on the wire to make sure it sticks.

8. Turn the key to "ON" position to see if your headlight turns on. Reverse the steps to reassemble the start switch.


Good Luck! Thanks to DCope17 and a few others for the help.

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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One more note on Step 4.

When reassembling the wire clamp, do not over tightening the screw. Doing so will cut off the current going through the wire; hence, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't as you move your handle bar around.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 12:55 AM
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This would have helped me when I had this issue. Thanks for helping out the site!!

Though I didn't remove the switch when did mine but I worked on airplanes for awhile so I am used to working in tight spots. I just took off the metal plate thing and soldered from there.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-09-2009, 12:14 PM
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Would this problem also make the plate light go off? Last night I was about to go out and noticed that my headlights and plate light were not working. The instrument cluster was which they share a fuse with was working fine. Just checked all the fuses and they seem fine, but no power to lights/plate light. 3rd eye/signals/tail light work fine. Could this be a likely cause?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 11:27 AM
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Great post! I'm having the same issue with my bike, but now it won't start either :( how long did it take to get that taken care of? I got a tight timeframe today but hopefully can squeeze it in ASAP.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-11-2009, 10:30 PM
Not right now chief, im in the f'ing zone
 
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Perfect. This problem pops quite alot here on this forum.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 12:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRocket801 View Post
Great post! I'm having the same issue with my bike, but now it won't start either :( how long did it take to get that taken care of? I got a tight timeframe today but hopefully can squeeze it in ASAP.
It doesn't take long. Just unscrew the ignition housing and all the wires shown should expose to you. You can then test for connectivity and voltage. I just know one of the 3 wires are for headlights, not sure about the other 2.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-18-2009, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowFlyer View Post
Would this problem also make the plate light go off? Last night I was about to go out and noticed that my headlights and plate light were not working. The instrument cluster was which they share a fuse with was working fine. Just checked all the fuses and they seem fine, but no power to lights/plate light. 3rd eye/signals/tail light work fine. Could this be a likely cause?
Test for voltage in your plate light. It could be the light itself is defective. Trace back to where the wire goes and test from there. I just have a feeling you didn't really check all 5-6 fuses in the box.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-14-2009, 01:58 PM
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Thank you so much for posting this awesome how-to.
I just did it last weekend and it worked out as good as it could-a total success! I am crap at soldering, and scared of dealing with electrical problems just because of the difficulty in troubleshooting for a clueless dork like meself.
it was a bit cold and windy when i tried it, and from your perfect pictures you don't realize until you are into it just how little room to maneuver you will have.
Be patient, take your time, and any of us will be able to do this and save money and bike downtime.
Good tip: if you have a problem getting a screw to stay in place while holding components for reassembly, try a dab of grease on the driver/or screw, will make for one handed operation!
when getting the plate back together, and before thinking of grease-my screwdrivers aren't the cool magnetic tip kind- I almost got it back together by holding one of the tiny plate screws in needle nose pliers and screwing it in with a screwdriver held in my mouth-it is that fiddly.
I had a hard time melting a new blob of solder to the contact point, but there was still the original blob on the wire, so that got melted back where it should-and it has held for the last week-hope it's good for life!
Thanks once again- I was very proud of myself, but most of that credit goes to you!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-24-2009, 10:57 PM
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that is awesome my head lights are starting to not come one but after a couple of bumps they do. bet this is the case
good find~!
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 06:56 PM
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Awesome how-to. Had this exact problem crop up today, half and hour later I'm back on the road. My bike is still under warranty but this saved me a big hassle taking it to the dealer. Thanks for the write-up, you just saved my afternoon ride.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 08:36 PM
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THIS WAS AWESOME !! As soon as I got my bike to the dealer for inspection my headlights went out !! and he wouldnt pass it. I sure as hell wasnt gonna wait there all day so I came home n signed up to this forum. A quick use of the search button lead me right to this tutorial. I undid my switch and there it was, headlight wire popped off the contact. Perfect step by step and great pictures. THANK YOU FOR SAVING MY SATURDAY !!!!

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-09-2012, 11:16 AM
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good job on the write up, i had a similar problem about a year ago but mine turned out to be dirty connectors inside the starter switch, ended up cleaning the contacts with some WD40 and never had a problem since :)

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 01:20 AM
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i had a bad low beam ballast..on my DDM. they been runnin for over 30k miles




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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-24-2013, 12:24 PM
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So just to clarify do I need to just build up where the red dot is


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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-02-2015, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re-uploading Pictures

Before seeking the resolution below, thoroughly check the fuses for the headlights located on the left side of the mid fairing (see image below). This guide is specifically created for 2003-2006 CBR600RR. Newer model bike may or may not applied. Stable hands and soldering experience is required, failure to have this will result in a short on other electrical components.



Problem: Both headlights do not turn on when the key is at the "ON" position or after the engine has started and running. High beam headlight doesn't respond when the high beam button is pressed. On the initial start-up of the gauges, the high beam light indicator is lit, but stayed off.

Cause: Solder point or headlight fuse is broken.

Tools Required:
  • Philip Screw Driver
  • Soldering Iron (Fry's, Radio Shack)
  • Soldering Lead with Flux (Fry's, Radio Shack)
  • Tweezers
  • An additional person to hold the device in place while soldering.
Procedure:

1. Remove the 2 screws located on the bottom of the "start" button housing.




2. Carefully open the housing and unscrew the silver screw.



3. Once the metal plate is removed, check to see if any of the 3 wires are disconnected. Make sure to wiggle the wires to confirm that the connection is solid. It may appeared that the soldering joint are connected, but in fact, it may not. The headlight wire is colored red/black.

4. Next, remove the wire clamp screw (1) along with the screw that hold the "start" button in place (2). Take a careful look at how the wire clamp is assembled, the housing will not snap together if done incorrectly. The plastic tab underneath the metal clap may break off.


5. Carefully remove the "start" button from the housing to expose the electrical component and to ease the job of soldering.




6. Plug in your soldering iron and let it warm up to the operating temperature (2-3 minute). Using an additional hand to hold the button, melt the solder core/lead onto the contact point and let it cool. Note: if the solder core has flux (solder glue, yellow looking liquid when melted), it will stick very easily without any effort.


7. With one hand holding the headlight wire, while the other holding the soldering iron, melt the solder ball done in step 6 and insert the headlight wire into the liquid solder. Once the connection is secured, pull on the wire to make sure it sticks.

8. Turn the key to "ON" position to see if your headlight turns on. Reverse the steps to reassemble the start switch.


Good Luck! Thanks to DCope17 and a few others for the help.


For the life of me, I could not find my old pictures. Some of them are missing from ImageShack so I could only re-upload what I have to best match the description. Let me know through PM or on this board if you have question.
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