how to: brake pads check/change/clean rear/front - Page 2 - 600RR.net
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post #31 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-16-2010, 08:49 AM
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question. when my bike is on stands and I turn the front wheel I hear a slight rubbing (disc against caliper) is this common or do I need to adjust something?

If I give it a hard spin it will probably make about 5-6 full rotations.
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post #32 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-16-2010, 03:41 PM
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i dont see that being a problem as long as it spins freely
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post #33 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 01:32 AM
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Excellent thread! just one thing .. dont make the mistake of pumping the brake lever when the callipers are taken out ..you might pop the pistons out. Do so only after you put the whole unit back on the discs.
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post #34 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 03:49 AM
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great post very detailed and great pics

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post #35 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-06-2010, 04:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinthomas View Post
Excellent thread! just one thing .. dont make the mistake of pumping the brake lever when the callipers are taken out ..you might pop the pistons out. Do so only after you put the whole unit back on the discs.
Not true, the best way to clean the piston without dissasembly of the caliper is to pump the piston out exposing clean piston so you can clean it properly. Small pressure at the lever watched very closely as you do it will bring the pistons out far enough to clean them. Dont go mad pumping at the lever and you'll be fine. It can be done but as with everything else common sense applies.

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post #36 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 10:38 PM
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Question about the Crush Washers

HI have done the brakes now few times with this one. First time, I got fluid in the old pads, so I changed my new pads, bleed, done, it brakes really nice.
After couple of days, I saw a small leak on the left side banjo, I said, sh..t I did not properly tighten it, so I did some more, I went a bit pass the spec torque and BAAAAAAAAMMM, broke the bolt, thanks god it did not mess up the threads.
I replaced it with another banjo and reuse the old crush washers (wrooonng), again it worked flawlessly for couple of days, after few days, leaking again.
I finally got the new crush washers, question is, the sides are different, one side is completely flat and the other one is a bit curvy. So, how does it go on?

Flat side against bolt head (curvy against line) - line - flat side against line (curvy against caliper) ?

or the opposite:

Curvy side against Bolt head (flat against line) - line - curvy side against line (flat against caliper)

Help would be much appreciate!!.

Just do not want to have to do them again, or mess up the new crush washers.
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post #37 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 10:49 PM
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I would think curvy one against the bolt head, but dont quote me on that one. What does the manual say?
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post #38 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-16-2010, 06:59 PM
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helpfull will use this

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post #39 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-19-2010, 05:51 PM
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super helpful, just redid my brakes today. best how to ive come across!!! kudos!!
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post #40 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-21-2010, 09:59 PM
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Did my first pad replacement on my bike today. Great write-up. It was very detailed and straight to the point. Seems like it still had the original pads on it and it has 13,xxx miles on it. Whats the normal replacement interval on these pads?
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post #41 of 58 (permalink) Old 02-15-2011, 01:05 PM
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I'm at 47,000 miles on OEM pads. Just picked up rear Galfer serated pads at the bike show this weekend. My fronts still have 30% left!!! Engine braking FTW!
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post #42 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 05:19 PM
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im leaving work early to go home and do this. is a quart of brake fluied enough ir should i get more? and how long does this usualy take all of you?
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post #43 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 02:18 PM
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If no parts need to be replaced and you only end up cleaning the pistons as described it should not take you longer than 1-1.5 hours. If it does then you have definitely done something wrong.

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post #44 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011, 03:21 PM
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great write up, just what i need as my new front brakes have just turned up i just hope i got the right ones they were marked, for an 09, but have it on good authority there the same as an 08... i hope!

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post #45 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011, 02:30 PM
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guys do i need to buy NEW caliper mounting bolts when just replacing my brake pads?? the write up here says DISCARD mounting bolts, and at the end of the write up says tighten up NEW caliper mounting bolts. cant i use the old ones or something??

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post #46 of 58 (permalink) Old 06-24-2011, 10:51 AM
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Great write up. I will be using this to replace my pads along with working on my caliper/pad rub issue. Might as well do it all at once. Thanks man.
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post #47 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-06-2011, 05:53 PM
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does it matter what brand or where you buy the brakes from?
i saw some on ebay..


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post #48 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chingbo View Post
does it matter what brand or where you buy the brakes from?
i saw some on ebay..

i was gonna buy some cheap ebay brake pads for like £40 for a set, EBC or something they were. thought i`d google the brand 1st to check them out, and found a lot of write ups on bike forums saying they had absolutely no stopping power what so ever.... i decided to go for the stock honda pads, the Tociko ones. just happened to find a honda dealership selling them on ebay for £50 for the 2 front discs. google whatever brand it is before you commit to buy them mate.

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post #49 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 09:34 AM
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I like the write up but I would suggest you guys use Honda's Brake/Contact Cleaner in the blue/black can with a sift bristle tooth brush for cleaning. It's safe to use on rubber o-rings and seals, plus you don't have to worry about it removing any paint. You can use it to clean your chain and sprockets also!

I personally would NEVER try pushing the calipers into the cylinder by hand or using any sharp object to clean the calipers. You shouldn't need to scrape anything if you get Honda's cleaner.


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post #50 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-23-2011, 10:18 AM
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Good write up and follow questions and answers
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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 05:23 PM
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so what about the csliper mounting bolts? do they need to be replaced after changing the brake pads?
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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
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so what about the csliper mounting bolts? do they need to be replaced after changing the brake pads?
No, but I would clean them before reusing them. A light dab of lock-tite wouldn't hurt

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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 01:13 AM
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Front calipers
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...threadid=98946

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Last edited by Superhawk; 12-28-2011 at 01:23 AM.
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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 01:14 AM
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Rear calipers
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...threadid=98584

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Last edited by Superhawk; 12-28-2011 at 01:23 AM.
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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 10:49 AM
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I'm trying to put back my rear caliper on the bike however I'm trying to remember the spring pad orientation on the rear caliper/pad assembly. Any tips or suggestions? I'm looking at the parts catalog and the repair instructions and there is no mention of how it goes together. Thanks
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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 12-15-2012, 10:52 AM
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Nevermind I figured it out....inside the brake caliper.
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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 04:22 PM
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i'll try to change my rear brakes next week and I have few questions regarding this thread.

1-I want to push all the piston out the caliper, it says to push it using compress air, how do I do this?

2-If I follow the procedure, I shouldn't need to bleed the brake lines?

3-once cleaned, to push the piston back in the caliper, I only apply hand force? no tool required?

Thank you for your help! great DIY
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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 03-31-2015, 07:32 AM
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how to: brake pads check/change/clean rear/front

I didn't know which way to put the rear spring plate back. Found out that the wider side of spring plate must go to the nearest side of rear piston.

Last edited by melbourne; 04-07-2015 at 03:48 AM.
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