***PAIR Removal How To (including airbox removal) NEW VERSION!!*** - Page 2 - 600RR.net
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post #31 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 09:05 PM
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why remove reeds for?
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post #32 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 09:45 PM
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Weight savings.

2007 Pearl White

OEM seat cowl
HRC CF trim set
R&G aero sliders, cotton reels, bar ends, swingarm protectors
Pazzo shorties
Cox radiator guard
White reflective rim tape
Tripage IT
Tripage adjustable FE
Akrapovic S/O
Dynojet PC3 USB
PAIR plates
Watsen flushmounts
Techspec pads
5000K DDM HID's
Woodcraft clutch/stator covers, rearsets, and shark fin
Ohlins 25mm fork cartridges
Ohlins TTX rear shock
HEL SS brake lines
Brembo RCS19 MC
Gilles TECA chain adjusters and crash pads
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post #33 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008, 09:23 PM
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what i dont get it. what is PAIR and why remove it....just for weight savings? and how much weight?

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post #34 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-23-2008, 02:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j4ever View Post
what i dont get it. what is PAIR and why remove it....just for weight savings? and how much weight?
BUMP^^^^
Im curious too, is there a performance bonus or just weight, and how much weight are we talking plz?

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post #35 of 139 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 04:43 PM
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It's mainly to get an accurate F/A ratio over weight savings.

Just did my removal. I honestly think that I now know the pain that women go through during child birth. I hope I never have to take the air box out again.
post #36 of 139 (permalink) Old 05-06-2008, 05:02 PM
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You don't have to remove the PAIR system to get an accurate A/F reading. You can just clamp off the hose to accomplish the same thing for a dyno tune. So it really does come down to weight savings. :)

2007 Pearl White

OEM seat cowl
HRC CF trim set
R&G aero sliders, cotton reels, bar ends, swingarm protectors
Pazzo shorties
Cox radiator guard
White reflective rim tape
Tripage IT
Tripage adjustable FE
Akrapovic S/O
Dynojet PC3 USB
PAIR plates
Watsen flushmounts
Techspec pads
5000K DDM HID's
Woodcraft clutch/stator covers, rearsets, and shark fin
Ohlins 25mm fork cartridges
Ohlins TTX rear shock
HEL SS brake lines
Brembo RCS19 MC
Gilles TECA chain adjusters and crash pads
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post #37 of 139 (permalink) Old 05-27-2008, 01:05 PM
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how much weight to you cut with it though?

You're all sheep.
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post #38 of 139 (permalink) Old 05-27-2008, 01:45 PM
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I think someone weighed it before and it was maybe around 1lb or so. Not really much for a street rider, but for someone chasing down every bit of weight for a track bike it's probably worth it to them. I did mine just because I was working in that area anyways and figured it would be easier when I go to get tuned.

2007 Pearl White

OEM seat cowl
HRC CF trim set
R&G aero sliders, cotton reels, bar ends, swingarm protectors
Pazzo shorties
Cox radiator guard
White reflective rim tape
Tripage IT
Tripage adjustable FE
Akrapovic S/O
Dynojet PC3 USB
PAIR plates
Watsen flushmounts
Techspec pads
5000K DDM HID's
Woodcraft clutch/stator covers, rearsets, and shark fin
Ohlins 25mm fork cartridges
Ohlins TTX rear shock
HEL SS brake lines
Brembo RCS19 MC
Gilles TECA chain adjusters and crash pads
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post #39 of 139 (permalink) Old 05-28-2008, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Demented View Post
It's mainly to get an accurate F/A ratio over weight savings.

Just did my removal. I honestly think that I now know the pain that women go through during child birth. I hope I never have to take the air box out again.
Yeah, I completely agree Demented. It was good to get all that useless junk outta there tho. She'll be seeing the dyno very soon now.

Great writeup Paul!
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post #40 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 07:58 PM
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How much were the block of plates ?

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post #41 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnk View Post
I think someone weighed it before and it was maybe around 1lb or so. Not really much for a street rider, but for someone chasing down every bit of weight for a track bike it's probably worth it to them. I did mine just because I was working in that area anyways and figured it would be easier when I go to get tuned.
Same here, i was it the area. It was a fun project.:icon_lol:

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post #42 of 139 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubstar View Post
How much were the block of plates ?
They usually sell for between $25-30.

2007 Pearl White

OEM seat cowl
HRC CF trim set
R&G aero sliders, cotton reels, bar ends, swingarm protectors
Pazzo shorties
Cox radiator guard
White reflective rim tape
Tripage IT
Tripage adjustable FE
Akrapovic S/O
Dynojet PC3 USB
PAIR plates
Watsen flushmounts
Techspec pads
5000K DDM HID's
Woodcraft clutch/stator covers, rearsets, and shark fin
Ohlins 25mm fork cartridges
Ohlins TTX rear shock
HEL SS brake lines
Brembo RCS19 MC
Gilles TECA chain adjusters and crash pads
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post #43 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-06-2008, 11:36 PM
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Instead of getting some block off plates i'm about to just use a tap and a couple bolts and close off the valves like that. Does anyone have any reason why this could be a bad idea?

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post #44 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-07-2008, 04:41 PM
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only thing i can think of is that metal chips may go into the hole when they chip off in order to create the threads...

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post #45 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-07-2008, 04:50 PM
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what did you do with the electrical connector/sensor that connects to the pair valve unit? just leave it hanging or tie it somewhere?

2004 Honda CBR600RR
-Spiegler SS lines f+r
-Woodcraft rearsets
-Woodcraft Clip-Ons
-GPR Steering Damper
-Vesrah RJL brake pads
-Elka 3-Way Shock
-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
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post #46 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-07-2008, 05:00 PM
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Either way is fine. I think I just left mine hanging but tucked away from things.

2007 Pearl White

OEM seat cowl
HRC CF trim set
R&G aero sliders, cotton reels, bar ends, swingarm protectors
Pazzo shorties
Cox radiator guard
White reflective rim tape
Tripage IT
Tripage adjustable FE
Akrapovic S/O
Dynojet PC3 USB
PAIR plates
Watsen flushmounts
Techspec pads
5000K DDM HID's
Woodcraft clutch/stator covers, rearsets, and shark fin
Ohlins 25mm fork cartridges
Ohlins TTX rear shock
HEL SS brake lines
Brembo RCS19 MC
Gilles TECA chain adjusters and crash pads
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post #47 of 139 (permalink) Old 10-08-2008, 11:59 PM
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like cnk said,you can leave it hanging. i actually zipped tied mine to a set of wires that was next to it. if you would like i can take a pic and post it up. when i did this i also removed the entire charcoal canister and smog stuff from the bike. i used the guide that is posted on another site.

!!be warned. to get the canister out, you must remove the rear shock. also! when you put vacuum plugs on the throttle bodies, (i believe the are a 1/8th) you must have the air box removed!!
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post #48 of 139 (permalink) Old 01-30-2009, 12:50 PM
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[quote=keganaraujo;1879947]like cnk said,you can leave it hanging. i actually zipped tied mine to a set of wires that was next to it. if you would like i can take a pic and post it up. when i did this i also removed the entire charcoal canister and smog stuff from the bike. i used the guide that is posted on another site.

!!be warned. to get the canister out, you must remove the rear shock. also! when you put vacuum plugs on the throttle bodies, (i believe the are a 1/8th) you must have the air box removed!![/quote]

you don't need to put caps on the throttle bodies. all that's really necessary is to cap off the large hose which is the one that sucks fuel/air into the engine from the cannister. i used an old brake caliper banjo bolt and a zip tie. the smaller hose can be left open since it's just a breather.

2004 Honda CBR600RR
-Spiegler SS lines f+r
-Woodcraft rearsets
-Woodcraft Clip-Ons
-GPR Steering Damper
-Vesrah RJL brake pads
-Elka 3-Way Shock
-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
-Tanktredz
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post #49 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 10:01 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks for the write up, it worked out very well.
It wasn't very difficult, just take your time and you'll be fine.

I also put my BMC air filter in and PC3, now the only problem now though is I'm gettin an FI error code of 2 refering to the MAP vacuum line or bad MAP sensor. I hooked up the small hose to the air box and the connector to the sensor. Going to go back and recheck the hose and the sensor connection.

After doing some searching, I'm going to check make sure there are no pinches in the hose.
Go search function!

UPDATE: The hose to the MAP Sensor was pinched...gotta love that search function.
Thanks to all who contributed to this how to.




Toaliosis
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2007 600RR "Freak on the Track"
2000 XR650R Soon to be Sumo
2001 XR650R .....TBD
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Last edited by Toaliosis; 03-02-2009 at 08:05 PM.
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post #50 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-05-2009, 07:56 AM
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Hi guys,

Is it possible to disable PAIR by blocking the hoses, or by blocking the airbox hose AND connecting the 2 PAIR inlets (the ones the blanking plates cover up) to each other using just one hose?

Do you have to remove the reeds or is this not crucial?

Many, many thanks :)

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post #51 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 10:06 PM
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i'm about to undergo this job in the next week... i'm still not sure how i'm going to seal off the airbox hole there... anyone else done this and have any idea what i should be doing ?

looking at next years options
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post #52 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-31-2009, 10:41 PM
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i too am going to do this soon, (i already have the plates in hand), and i too would also like to know what everyone has used to plug/cap off the hole on the air box? where did you buy it for and what it is? any help would greatly be apprecitaed. thank you.



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post #53 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
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i'm about to undergo this job in the next week... i'm still not sure how i'm going to seal off the airbox hole there... anyone else done this and have any idea what i should be doing ?
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i too am going to do this soon, (i already have the plates in hand), and i too would also like to know what everyone has used to plug/cap off the hole on the air box? where did you buy it for and what it is? any help would greatly be apprecitaed. thank you.
I used a replacement rubber cane tip which I got from a local hardware store.
I just took the airbox with me and tried a few of the sizes out, since they were sold in bulk.
I secured it on the airbox tube using a ziptie.

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2007 600RR "Freak on the Track"
2000 XR650R Soon to be Sumo
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post #54 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-01-2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toaliosis View Post
I used a replacement rubber cane tip which I got from a local hardware store.
I just took the airbox with me and tried a few of the sizes out, since they were sold in bulk.
I secured it on the airbox tube using a ziptie.
do you remember witch harware store... lowe's, homedepot?



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post #55 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-02-2009, 03:52 PM
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So to clarify.. If I wanted to just disable the PAIR for tuning purposes, I could just seal the hoses attached to each side of the airbox and call it a day? Without doing any of the other things or trying to lose the 1lb? And this wont set off any lights or harm anything, even if I leave them plugged for AFM module?
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post #56 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-04-2009, 11:18 PM
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i finally did this mod. thanks for the awesome write up paul. and thanks to all that contributed.
i also found the plug for the airbox. i got it at advanced auto, for about $3. heres a pic. (just in case other ppl out there were in the same boat i was prior to the project.)




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post #57 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-04-2009, 11:29 PM
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as far as i know your correct. but why go through all that trouble just to clamp them off when you can remove it all together? your in that area anyways. if you don't want to buy the aftermarket plates you can always just leave the stock pair plates and use the plugs that i posted to plug up all the holes. if your gonna tune your bike with the pair system disabled, why not just permenantly make your bike like that? and shed a 1lb of dead weight.
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So to clarify.. If I wanted to just disable the PAIR for tuning purposes, I could just seal the hoses attached to each side of the airbox and call it a day? Without doing any of the other things or trying to lose the 1lb? And this wont set off any lights or harm anything, even if I leave them plugged for AFM module?



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post #58 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 12:30 AM
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Thanks for the response. I hear what you are saying about disabling it, but I dont want to permanently do it yet.

I might try the marble trick someone posted before. Seems like a good idea.
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post #59 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-07-2009, 05:24 PM
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do you remember witch harware store... lowe's, homedepot?
Sorry for not getting back to you.
I got it from a "Do It Best", was like $0.59.
The one you got from Advance Auto looks like it would fit better.

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post #60 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-08-2009, 10:24 PM
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has anyone done this mod and noticed a drastic change in mgpg's? i just did this mod over the weekend and finally got the chance to ride the bike around. from yesterday to today i put on about 65 miles and now i'm at half a tank. i was at almost full, -1 fuel bar showed, before i rode yesterday and like i said its at half now. any ideals? cuz i know this is not normal, i should have alot more miles at half a tank. please help.
i should add that i also did the DIY v-stacks at the same time.



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