***PAIR Removal How To (including airbox removal) NEW VERSION!!*** - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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***PAIR Removal How To (including airbox removal) NEW VERSION!!***

ok so i have had a set of PAIR covers sitting in my tool box for ages (thanks to nemisis45 for hooking me up)

so i had a bit of time so i cracked on with the job.

so first off, pull the tank up enough so you can see the 2 connectors under the tank




Remove the brown plug and start the bike up, let it run till it stalls. This releases any fuel pressure in the lines.

Now remove the fuel line at the bottom of the tank




Once this is down you can either pull the tank off completely or just pull it up enough to get to work on the airbox




Next you start removing the top section of airbox. First remove the plastic bar the holds the ecu down



then off comes the plug on top of the airbox


Then get to work on removing the screws around the lid of the airbox



once these are off you can pull the top off



Now you can get at the uppper FI plugs (grey plugs) Disconnet them



Disconnect the upper fuel line. Pull the rubber safety catch, then squezze and pull


Once the line is disconnected, tilt the pipe up to stop any fuel in the rail running out

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post #2 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Next up is working around the wiring.

Remove this 8mm bolt



Then follow the plastic harness cover down to the bottom of the airbox and pull it upwards to pop the cover out from it hooks




Once you have the play at the bottom you can flex the top up and wiggle out the tabs from under the fuel rail


Pull it back out the way



Now you can go at the screws around the mid section of the airbox.
The last one is in the middle of it. It is counter sunk inside a hole just behind the fuel rail


Now you can start wiggling it out from the lower part of the box and around the wiring
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post #3 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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You should now have this nice clear view


Out come the velocity stakes


Then the air filter, (2 screws at the top and 3 brackets at the bottom)


its almost out now



You have a few more things to disconnect before it will come out.
you have this small hose from the thermostat


and the plug just above it


(these are actually easier to remove when the lower part of the airbox is still in place)

Now take of the 2 breathers, one on each side,




now tug the front up and pull it out (when it goes back in do the opposite, ass end in first)
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post #4 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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The last thing left in you way is the rubber intake tunnel, just pullit out from behind the throttle cables



All out now


now you can see the PAIR system


I first pulled of the hose's


Then removed the connector plug and lifted it all our


Remove the two 8mm bolts on top of the port


and then pull the port off



Now you can pry out the reeds and baffles, with a screw driver


which leaves it looking like this


i tested the fit of the plates first before add any gasket sealant
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post #5 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Fit was spot on so i took it of and added some gasket bond



repeat the process on the other port and they will end up like this





Last thing left is sealing hole under the airbox for PAIR breather pipe


I used the grip from a walking stick which StevoRR hooked me up with
, i secured it with a cable tie


Your now done, before putting the airbox back on i would suggest giving the inlets a hoover out just incase anything is now sitting on top


No go bolt here back together!
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post #6 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 12:41 PM
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Great write up. Now I'm not so wearing about doing the PAIR removal. I thought getting the airbox out was much more difficult then that. I'm still going to just wait until I have to put a new air filter in though, lol.
post #7 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 07:11 PM
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Great write up Paul. But Good Gawdddd....that's a lot of stuffs to take out for a little pair of tubings. If you just unbolt the radiator and kind of push it out of the way a little (don't discont it), you can get to the PAIR thing right there. Only thing I'm wondering is, can you get to the hole in the airbox to plug it up from the radiator side. If not, just leave the tube attaching to airbox attached there and just plug it at the pair's end.
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post #8 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 07:46 PM
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What benefit is there for a PAIR removal ?
i am rebuilding my bike and it will be a track only bike.
after removing the PAIR, will a check engine light come on if you leave the electrical connector disconnected ?
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post #9 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 10:48 PM
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PAIR system injects ambient air into the exhaust port to meet EPA (pollution) restrictions.

It's necessary for a tuner to do this so that the machine gives accurate readings of the A/F mix.

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post #10 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 11:01 PM
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thanks paul. was wondering about how much time from beginning til finish. granted you were slowed a bit w/the captures. level of difficulty 1 being easiest 10 being a major pia
how would you rate the job?


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post #11 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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it took me about 30 minutes start to finish. i'm pretty used to spannering on bikes though, everyone should be able to do it in about45mins to an hour. i'd give it a 4 rating. just get stuck in.

as far as going the radiator route go for it. On the last PAIR thread everyone moaned about having no instructions for the airbox removal, so i did one to help everyone out, now people wanna moan about it being a big job and can't i just go the rad route.

its your bikes guys, go which ever way you like, i'm just trying to help out all the people ask how to get the airbox off
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post #12 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 10:16 AM
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whats really funny is that I did this job this weekend as well and took a bunch of pics to make a howto. I was chatting with paul and told him and he said he had just done the same thing ..LOL.. now I don't have to post them all.

Paul is spot on with the howto. Good job. The only thing I would add is that it is not necessary to disconnect the fuel line on the bottom of the tank. Only at the fuel rail. I reckon you can pull the tank back a bit further if you remove it, but I didn't remove it and there was enough room. I proped the tank up by shoving a piece of wood under it to prop it on the frame.

As far as time, I'm pretty good at doint this kind of stuff too but it took me a couple of hours. Mostly just because I was taking my time and piddling around. I cleaned out parts, etc.. as I was pulling them off.

Difficulty ? I didn't thinnk it was that difficult at all. All of the plugs only go in one place so its not like you can confuse anything. Don't be intimidated. It's not a hard job, just a bit time consuming.. thats all.

The hardest part was getting the airbox back in and getting the rubber ram air inlets seated back in the frame. Just a bit of pushing and moving around to get the airbox seated back in. No biggie. Everything else was gravy really.

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post #13 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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haha i beat you to it bro lol.

i had the same idea to clean everything out when i was doing it but all i really had sitting in the airbox was bits of rubber of the track. i imagine a road bit will collect alot more crap in it, Hence it not being a great idea running a tk intake on the road.

The only reason i removed the lower fuel connection was for abit more room (easier to take the pics lol)

i'm with you on this one cozye, its not a hard job.
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post #14 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 12:21 PM
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Here are some additional pics I took. Most of my pics are the same as pauls, but these show how I proped up the tank and just have a couple of different angles for you guys.











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post #15 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 01:29 PM
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Oh,
And another question I had to look up and I've been asked as well.

You can just tie up the electrical connector from the pair system. It will not cause an FI light.

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post #16 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 01:45 PM
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I took my tank all of the way off since I was hooking up my PC also less stuff in the way.

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post #17 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by paul46rider View Post
it took me about 30 minutes start to finish. i'm pretty used to spannering on bikes though, everyone should be able to do it in about45mins to an hour. i'd give it a 4 rating. just get stuck in.

as far as going the radiator route go for it. On the last PAIR thread everyone moaned about having no instructions for the airbox removal, so i did one to help everyone out, now people wanna moan about it being a big job and can't i just go the rad route.

its your bikes guys, go which ever way you like, i'm just trying to help out all the people ask how to get the airbox off
moaning no, but i do like to do things the easy way.. hahhahah
i hate taken the tank off, but i am lazy, and eas wondering if there was a lazy way!!!
bro awesome write up and the fotos are better than any manuel!!


IGOT new stuff ...disco helped me good!!!


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post #18 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-23-2008, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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moaning no, but i do like to do things the easy way.. hahhahah
i hate taken the tank off, but i am lazy, and eas wondering if there was a lazy way!!!
bro awesome write up and the fotos are better than any manuel!!
its all good bro, least you have a how to for when you need to rid the airbox for a hrc throttle now
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post #19 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-24-2008, 02:55 PM
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hey cozy,
thanks for the additional pics & comments. sounds like it's just tedious & not really that challenging


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post #20 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 07:13 PM
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thanks paul and cozye for the info on doing this mod.
i used the stock pair plates and got some rubber caps for them and the airbox.

i did my HRC throttle kit at the same time, it is possible to change the cables out w/o removing the throttle bodies.

total time including fukin w/ the throttle was about 90 minutes, start to finish.
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post #21 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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yeah i did mine without removal of the throttle bodies, just take patience and a large vocabulary of swear worns
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post #22 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 07:26 PM
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when i first saw it i was thinkin, how the hell do they do that?
then i looked at it from the other side (over the transmission) and i got it pretty easy. just takes patience and some good needle nose pliers.
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post #23 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-26-2008, 10:47 AM
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Where can i find the block off plates in Europe ?

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post #24 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-26-2008, 12:50 PM
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Dan Kyle might ship out there, or you can have someone here get them for you and ship them out.
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post #25 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-26-2008, 03:11 PM
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Thanks,

but who is Dan Kyle :toothy12:?

Nevermind, if someone can buy it for me, i can do a paypal or something like that.

It's for a 600 2007

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post #26 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-31-2008, 12:50 PM
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How do I acquire these PAIR removal plates?
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post #27 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-31-2008, 12:57 PM
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How do I acquire these PAIR removal plates?
Dan Kyle has them, you can give him a call, this is from his site.
Telephone (831) 394-1330
(866) 667-4925 Toll Free
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post #28 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-31-2008, 05:22 PM
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i sent a mail to Dan 'cause my english with the phone is very bad... I've got no news for the moment...

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post #29 of 139 (permalink) Old 03-31-2008, 08:46 PM
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u can use the stock plates and cap the top w/ a rubber plug or cap.
thats all i did after removing the reeds from under them, then i just used some silicone rtv sealant.

the dan kyle plates might save u a few grams.
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post #30 of 139 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 06:37 PM
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dammit. I'm a newbie when it comes to taking the bike apart. I'm pretty much just scared of screwing up and breaking something expensive.

But damn this write up is excellent. I'm gonna do it soon as that intake from nemessis comes my way.

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