How To: Opening up 07-08 stock air intake - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 07:14 PM
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How To: Opening up 07-08 stock air intake

Test results for gutted vs stock intake
https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=106008


Here is how to get rid of all of the flow and noise restrictions inside the stock air intake.

Step 1:

Remove mirrors



Step 2:
Remove the two center screws for the windshield that attach the front to the stay



Step 3:
Remove the four screw/plugs from under the front. It's easier to use a phillips attachment for a drill with an extension on it for grip since it's hard to fit a screwdriver in there.



Step 4:
Remove the two screws that attach the stay to the lights/front. There is one on each side.



Step 5:
Pull the front off. Be careful because the 3rd eye is attached and the wires are fairly short. Unsrew the two screws holding the 3rd eye onto the front.



Step 6:
Remove the upper and the mids. It's easier to remove the upper and mid as one piece. Unclip the turn signal lights. Orange on the left, blue on the right.


Step 7:
On the left and right side, unclip the two black shields from the tank. They're just annoying and get in the way.




Step 8:
Unclip the front harness. Be careful when unplugging the large molex.

Last edited by Demented; 06-06-2008 at 11:35 AM.
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post #2 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 07:15 PM
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Step 9:
Disconnect the lights and BAS from the harness. There are 2 white and 2 black plugs. Unplug them by pressing down the flap that has the white dot on it.



Step 10:
On each side of the air intake, pry back the metal bolt retainers and unbolt the intake. When you are working on getting the 2nd side off, hold the whole front assembly in one hand so it doesn't fall as you remove the last bolt.



Step 11:
Remove the whole front assembly. You'll need the forks/wheel relatively straight to get the air intake out of the frame.



Step 12:
Remove the lights from the stay. There is one screw on the front and one on the bottom attached to the bottom plastic piece.




Step 13:

Un bolt the back of the stay from the air intake



Step 14:
Remove the bolts on each side of the stay/intake. You will be able to remove the intake from the rest of the front assembly.
post #3 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-03-2008, 07:16 PM
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The intake should be all by itself now. Bust out your dremel or any other tool of your choice to remove the material.

**Note**
I did part of this yesterday and did not get pictures of the intake before I started modding. There are 2 vertical and 1 horizontal find in the intake. Remove them (This should be step 15)


Step 16:
Cut out the rounded part in the intake that has the two holes In the back. I found that using a hammer and a flat screwdriver works better at knocking everything out, but be careful with the screwdriver. You might have to patch up a hole or two like I did. If you do go that rout and do have a hole to patch, the easiest way is to use a soldering iron with a flat tip.






Step 17:
Clean up the edges where you removed material. I used a dremel with a 120 grit barrel attachment and a wire wheel to remove bits of the fiberglass that were just hanging around.







There are two pieces of plastic on the stay that stick into the air intake. You can leave them in, cut them, or rip them out. I ripped them out and will continue the tutorial with that.



Step 18:
Rip off the two pieces of plastic from the stay. There's only a small rivet holding them in and is easy to pull off.


Step 19:
With some thin gauge aluminum or stainless steel that you can get from Home Depot, Lowes, or even Walmart, fab up some plates that seal up the holes in the intake. I used 32g stainless steel as I had it on hand. I cut the metal, bent it, and placed it into the intake. Sealed it top and bottom with liquid silicon gasket and let it dry. Make sure to let the silicon stand until it skins over, then insert the plates ontop of it, then add more sealant ontop for added insurance.



Step 20:
Put everything back together the way you took it off, unless you got pissed and a hammer to get something off, lol.



Before I did this my bike was really lagging in the 3000-4500rpm range when going from a stop. The engine would want to bog down and not run until the RPM's got over 4500rpm. Now, the bike wants to run when it hits 3000rpm. The power curve also feels much more smooth all the way through the RPM range.

Special thanks to MXRider for helping me understand what to do and having pictures of his modded intake.

Last edited by Demented; 04-03-2008 at 07:22 PM.
 
post #4 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 07:04 PM
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why or why not countinue with step 18?
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post #5 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-04-2008, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CELO View Post
why or why not countinue with step 18?
I was continuing the tutorial with step 18 because it's what I did, and the next step coresponded to it. Before step 18 you can just put it back together if you don't want to make block-offs.
post #6 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-06-2008, 03:12 AM
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okay, i'm retarded. sorry=(? why did you cut out the holes in orded to make block offs? remove some kinda restrictor?
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post #7 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 10:37 PM
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What holes are you talking about? I didn't cut any.
post #8 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 05:01 PM
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the holes are already there... u can plug them if u want to for a better seal throughout the chamber
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post #9 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 03:45 PM
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nice!!! any power gained?

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post #10 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 03:58 PM
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No dyno results, but the bike does feel stronger then it was stock. I'm not getting a power lag from idle to 4,000RPM like I was. Now It's only idle to 3,000RPM.
post #11 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 04:56 PM
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Where did the pieces removed in step 18 route air to?
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post #12 of 218 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 05:06 PM
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Nowhere. It's just a blockage/way of getting the stay to sit right on the intake.
Old 05-04-2008, 06:59 PM
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post #13 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 10:33 PM
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does yout bike still have that whinning sound that starts around 3k rpm? sounds like a supercharger...
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post #14 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 10:34 PM
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does yout bike still have that whinning sound that starts around 3k rpm? sounds like a supercharger...
Never noticed that before. Bike only had about 200 miles on it before I gutted the intake.
post #15 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008, 02:09 AM
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My bike's power is really jerky around 3500-4000rpm will this smooth it out?
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post #16 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008, 06:43 AM
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Nice! I did mine a couple weeks ago with the yoyodyne fairing stay!


"at 8k i often get the tire to slip a bit(kinda like stoner in motogp) when i start to get on the throttle"
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post #17 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 01:14 PM
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damn good write up!
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post #18 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-10-2008, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monstrosity View Post
My bike's power is really jerky around 3500-4000rpm will this smooth it out?

x2. either way, i think im gonna do this
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post #19 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-10-2008, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
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My bike's power is really jerky around 3500-4000rpm will this smooth it out?
Yup. It will move that Jerkiness down to around 2,500 RPM where you have no power anyway.
post #20 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-13-2008, 04:46 PM
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hey Demented,
I opened up the front cowl and broke off the fins inside the ram air tube with a pair of plier (front side). Are there more fins in the back side (side that is attaching to the airbox)? I haven't taken the air tube off completely to know. Thanks.
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post #21 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-13-2008, 05:00 PM
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Yes, there's more fins in the back. You'll be surprised at how much is in there.
post #22 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-14-2008, 11:55 AM
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nice job. guess I know how my weekend is being spent! good work on the data collection by the way.
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post #23 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 10:29 AM
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Interesting. Do we know why the fins were there in the first place? Just to slow the air for noise regulations?
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post #24 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 05:41 PM
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Interesting. Do we know why the fins were there in the first place? Just to slow the air for noise regulations?
From the test I did, I am guessing noise, emissions. At higher speeds the fins will decrease power, but since the intake was designed for street and not track use, I don't think it was much of a power restriction even though in actuality it is.
post #25 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 09:43 PM
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A+++ write up buddy!! Im gona do this now! I have a airless plastic welder so we'll see how creative I can get!! Ill post pix!



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post #26 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-25-2008, 12:20 AM
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Great write up! I followed these steps and it went great. I am putting it back together tomorrow. Hope it works! once again Great write up.
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post #27 of 218 (permalink) Old 06-30-2008, 12:55 PM
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Talking

I took out my airbox and cleared the junk this weekend as Demented wrote it up. By reading some of the comments I wasn't sure I would notice anything. Well, rode in this morning and I was SHOCKED at the overall increase in my "seat of the pants" testing! Throttle response was increased noticeably! All from a DIY mod! Incredible. I'm not saying everyone will achieve my results, as I have a Leo Vance slip-on also but It was well woth it to me. Before the mod I had significant lag and throttle response was okay, but now.... fast quick response (it truly feels like a "track bike") and lag has pretty much disappeared!

I noticed a thread where someone is making "new" air boxes for $300!!!!!! It looks allmost exactly as the way mine does now and I can't imagine it would be significantly better especially for the price Anyone contemplating dropping 3 bills on an aftermarket box should try this first!

thanks again Demented for a top shelf diy mod!:wav:

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Last edited by txroller1; 06-30-2008 at 01:04 PM. Reason: text edit
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post #28 of 218 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 05:00 PM
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Definitely thinking about doing this to my '08 soon. How long did it take you guys to gut it and put it back together?

08 CBR600RR Red/Black
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post #29 of 218 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 05:26 PM
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Couple questions actually - Does gutting your intake reduce gas mileage? And also, will it make the bike sound louder even with the stock exhaust?

08 CBR600RR Red/Black
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post #30 of 218 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 05:30 PM
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It may take about 30minutes - 1 hour total, depending on how fast you work.
Wont decrease gas mileage, unless you get the bike remapped to run perfect with the gutting.
The intake will sound louder, but it wont effect the sound of the exhaust.
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