Decided to fix the servo removal problem for you guys *Quick and Easy FI Light Fix* - Page 8 - 600RR.net
07 / 013 RR This forum is dedicated to the How to write ups for 07 / 013 RR

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post #211 of 234 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TST Industries View Post
Removing the valve and still using the stock header and catalytic converter will do nothing for you except decrease the low end torque output

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Damn! I should have read all the way through this thread 1st. I was appalled when I read that I would lose low end torque! I have a slip on only and one of the servo deletes. I had attempted to take out the servo motor and ended up breaking both the servo case and part of the fender/battery tray when I tried to remove the bolts holding in the servo motor. If I had known I would lose low end torque by removing the valve/screwing it open, I would have just left the motor in place.

Anyone have a spare battery tray for a 2014?
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post #212 of 234 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015, 01:34 PM
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how does one get out of "limp mode" my bike wont rev over 9k...

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post #213 of 234 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 09:29 AM
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Great write up, thanks!
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post #214 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-28-2015, 07:02 AM
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Can't make it work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by alexchannell View Post
I got tired of eveyone saying it's impossible so here you go:



I've not given a super in depth testing, just riding around the block at different throttle settings and RPM ranges. EFI light didn't turn on, also checked the voltages sent to the ECU and they look good.

Here is what happens: The red and blue wires are connected to the motor and switch poles to move the exhaust valve. The feedback is a potentiometer, the green wire is ground and the yellow/red is +5V. The brown wire is the input to the ECU.

When the red wire is energized the motor spins in the direction that increases voltage to the signal (brown) wire. Therefore I set the red wire to charge the capacitor (220ohm resistor there to limit how fast it chargesit, could overshoot without it). If it needs to move the valve the opposite way the red wire goes to ground and will lower the voltage in the capacitor. This replicates the pot moving the opposite direction. The 4.7k ohm resistor is simply there to protect the input line incase you hook things up wrong and send 12V into it.

These are the components I had sitting around and can be varied. These are all common values for these components however.

Enjoy.

i do not know why mine will not work (and i do not know if this thread still is active? :) )

please see below picture.
any input is welcome.
my bike is a trackday bike from 2007 (cbr600rr) and i am about to mount new rear frame which do not leave any space for the servo.
please help.
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post #215 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-28-2015, 11:44 AM
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Old thread but Alex Chanell stil there?

Husted I wouild try building 2-3 more and a couple s/b ok.

easy to o/heat resistors/capacitor

hook up with temporary joins and see if it works , then carefully solder together.
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post #216 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-28-2015, 03:54 PM
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Use bread board, it makes it easier to connect between the component and give a solid base for them.

Then after all is good to go, just wrap the bread board with lots of electrical tape.

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post #217 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tary preisser View Post
Old thread but Alex Chanell stil there?

Husted I wouild try building 2-3 more and a couple s/b ok.

easy to o/heat resistors/capacitor

hook up with temporary joins and see if it works , then carefully solder together.
thanks.. I tried today.. no luck..

tried without soldering first. still did not work.

my friend tried it too.. he told me that his FI light was on for a couple of days and then suddently swicth of? sounds strange to me..
but it make me try to reset the fail codes after installing this mod.
still no luck. :(

i am very close to just buy one :) even though it is much more fun if i could make it work.
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post #218 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 11:17 AM
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Try the breadboard!

it should work.......?
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post #219 of 234 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 02:28 PM
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Just checking but you hook up the correct positive and negative legs on the capacitor right?
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post #220 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinonz View Post
Just checking but you hook up the correct positive and negative legs on the capacitor right?
Yes the plus to the resistors and the minus directly to the plug ..
also tried without soldering, as suggested. still doe not work..

you guys make it work without reset fault codes or anything else then plug it in?
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post #221 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tary preisser View Post
Try the breadboard!

it should work.......?
i will.. must find a hardware store to buy one.. but it should not make the big difference? just more easy to soldering?
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post #222 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:53 AM
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If you use multimeter to check for connection between the plug lin and the capacitor, do you get a full circuit? If not, they are not connected properly.

If yes, it could be something else that throws the code.

Try resetting the ecu by removing the battery for 30 seconds.
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post #223 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinonz View Post
If you use multimeter to check for connection between the plug lin and the capacitor, do you get a full circuit? If not, they are not connected properly.

If yes, it could be something else that throws the code.

Try resetting the ecu by removing the battery for 30 seconds.
I have tried to put the servo motor on. and no FI light come on.

I have tried to reset the fault codes with the DLC plug.
-I will try removing the battery, did not know that will reset the codes.

/Husted
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post #224 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-09-2016, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinonz View Post
If you use multimeter to check for connection between the plug lin and the capacitor, do you get a full circuit? If not, they are not connected properly.

If yes, it could be something else that throws the code.

Try resetting the ecu by removing the battery for 30 seconds.
Still nothing :(

i heard from others who tried the same resistors and capicator that the FI lights was on for the first couple of time they tried it but suddently it turned off.

So i am out of ideas. I think i try to fitted on and try to see if it turns off after a couple of trackdays. my alternative is to put on the servo motor again :(

/Husted
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post #225 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-09-2016, 02:27 PM
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did you meter the resistors can cap to verify they are good and the same values as recommended?
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post #226 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-11-2016, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
did you meter the resistors can cap to verify they are good and the same values as recommended?
No I have not. you are right i should :)
Next thing to do measure the resistors.

I just assumed that the label was right. But I ordered them from HongKong so who knows :)

/Husted
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post #227 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 02:45 AM
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No I have not. you are right i should :)
Next thing to do measure the resistors.

I just assumed that the label was right. But I ordered them from HongKong so who knows :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
did you meter the resistors can cap to verify they are good and the same values as recommended?
"unfortunately" it was the correct resistor. So this is not the reason.

I do not think it has anything to do with it. But mine is a EU model. In this regard i think EU and US models are the same?

This is really driving me crazy.

/Husted
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post #228 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 04:12 AM
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EU model and NZ model are the same.

I used the same instruction and has been working well for the past 2 years.


Could be broken capacitor; try again with a whole new set of component.
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post #229 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 11:11 AM
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did you meter the capacitor? i thought i implied that in my first comment.

you likely have a bad component somewhere.
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post #230 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 02:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
did you meter the capacitor? i thought i implied that in my first comment.

you likely have a bad component somewhere.

yes i have :)
the components seems okay.

/Husted
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post #231 of 234 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinonz View Post
EU model and NZ model are the same.

I used the same instruction and has been working well for the past 2 years.


Could be broken capacitor; try again with a whole new set of component.
I will try a third set of components :)

else i have to buy one of the aftermarket servo eliminator or servo buddy.

/Husted
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post #232 of 234 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 02:15 AM
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heres mine, been running solid since 2011, installed on 2009 cbr 600rr
about to build another hi quality unit for my 2011 cbr 1000rr



'11 CBR1000RR
'09 CBR600RR
'08 CFR450X
'92 NSR 250 MC21SE
'92 VFR400
'05 CR 250
'83 RZ 250
'00 KTM 300EXC
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post #233 of 234 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 12:53 PM
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Thank you so much for this writeup

2009 CBR600rr Black / Grey / Silver
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post #234 of 234 (permalink) Old 07-11-2017, 09:28 PM
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Thanks so much for the sketch. I ordered the resistors and capacitor off Amazon 6 months ago and was able to make this last weekend. It works great with no issues.

First time rider over 40. Finally made it!
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