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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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07 shock removal/install

well if you read my slipper clutch install (which is still not a sticky for some reason) and thought "there is no way i can do that"
then i have good news for you. the shock is very simple.

(i know paul already did one of these but its included in a bunch of other things)

first thing is to get the bike up in the air.
i am not going to go into how to do this. there are so many methods already discussed but basically you need the bike in the air with the swingarm completely extended with no weight on it.

i used a floor jack under the oil pan and then lowered the aftermarket foot pegs onto car jacks. it is very solid.



if you still have the oem foot pegs, do not do it this way. they will fold up and your bike will crash, i suggest hanging the bike by the subframe from the rafters or whatever else you have handy that will support the bike.

the idea is there can be no weight on the swingarm.

Use the search, it wont bite you.

Last edited by RShackleford; 06-03-2008 at 07:09 PM.
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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you dont necessarily have to take the rear wheel off but it will make things a lot easier.

the rear hugger will just get in the way if you leave it on as well.

these are the two bolts we are looking for.
top


and bottom

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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both bolts use a 14mm hex head with a 17mm nut.
it is a tight fit on the top so i suggest a 17mm open end with a 14mm socket up top.
an extension on a breaker bar will help since these are torqued pretty good.

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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the bottom bolt comes out just like the top. same size wrenches needed.

the interesting bit is that they were installed opposite.
the 17mm nut was on the right (riders perspective) on top and the left on bottom.

sometimes they dont want to come straight out.
just wiggle the swingarm and the bolts will pull easily

in case you forget the longer bolt is the top

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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next pull the top of the shock to the rear and then pull back
it will come right out




once my ohlins from superbike supply comes in a day or so i will finish this up

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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ok lets finish this

here it is in all of its swedish radiance


i went with the PRXLS because i have one on my 1000rr and am more familiar with it than the TTX.

also i know the general consensus around here is that if you dont need the 3 way then dont get it.
after talking to brad at superbike supply, i was convinced that a hydraulic preload was necessary due to the ease of adjustment.

ok so what did that leave us. there is the elka 2 way with hydraulic preload for right at 1K dollars from sportbiketrackgear.com. for the price of that and a tank of gas Brad got the ohlins to my door. i think i made the right decision.

i was also looking at the penske triple but again no hydraulic preload and i didnt want to have to deal with finding a place to mount the remote reservoir.

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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here is the ohlins compared to stock.

it is just so well made it makes the stock shock look like it came off of a BMX bike from walmart.

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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just like removal,
with the bike up on jack stands and the swingarm all the way extended line the shock body up and slide it in


here is where i would deviate from the way i ended up doing if i have to install again.

put the hugger on now.
we will see why later

put something under the swingarm to hold it up.
this will raise the linkage to allow you to line the lower bolts up (remember which one it is right)
without having to hold the swingarm and bolt and shock

a roll of paper towels puts the swingarm perfectly into position

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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line the bottom up with the linkage and push the bolt through right to left.

i used loctite on the nut, probably not needed but i am paranoid.
then torque to 32 ft/lbs

remove the paper towel roll holding the swingarm up and line up the top bolts
again loctite and 32 ft/lbs


this is the issue with the hugger. the stock shock clears easily.
if you dont put the hugger on before you tighten up the ohlins it will block the middle hole for the hugger bolt

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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i just worked around it. just loosen the remote preload bracket and it will give you a little working room.

lot easier if you do the hugger first.

but thats it
lower the bike off the jack stands and onto your rearstand.
put the rear wheel back on and adjust chain.
set sag and you are ready to start dialing it in.

Use the search, it wont bite you.
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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-06-2008, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RShackleford View Post
here is the ohlins compared to stock.

it is just so well made it makes the stock shock look like it came off of a BMX bike from walmart.
i know what u mean, when i did mine, i pulled the stock one off thinking it would be similar in quality to my MX showa units in the past, and i laughed at how cheap it felt and looked.
u can tell its one place they definitely cut costs.
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 07-08-2009, 07:46 PM
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hey just wanted to say great write up. i put on a penske double 8983 and followed the instructions and wanted to let everybody know that a penske shock setup for a fatty like me 240+ needs to go in from the bottom instead of the top.

in order to do this you need to take off the lower plastics
take off the bolt for the swing arm into the dogbone. then take off the frame into the dogbone bolt and you can slide it up from there.
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 02:51 AM
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any way to get the pics to display?

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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 10:06 PM
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Thanks for this write up, it was exactly what I needed.....exactly when I needed it.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MXRider View Post
i know what u mean, when i did mine, i pulled the stock one off thinking it would be similar in quality to my MX showa units in the past, and i laughed at how cheap it felt and looked.
u can tell its one place they definitely cut costs.

Wow, that's surprising. Besides the valving everything about that shock is very high quality. In fact, if it only had ride height adjustment there would be no reason to buy an aftermarket unit.... except for impressing your friends I guess. The revalving I've done on the 07+ stock shocks, including my own bike, have all worked great.
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 08:24 PM
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Wow, that's surprising. Besides the valving everything about that shock is very high quality. In fact, if it only had ride height adjustment there would be no reason to buy an aftermarket unit.... except for impressing your friends I guess. The revalving I've done on the 07+ stock shocks, including my own bike, have all worked great.
Mine had a few problems with poor QC. The biggest problem is that I could only get a few clicks of preload adjustment out of it. If you tried to go farther with it the lower spring seat would spin instead of letting you adjust the collar. (It was only held in place by a small dent in the plate and it would ride over that bump and spin 90*) It did it's job but it left a lot to be desired as far as adjustments go.
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 10-25-2011, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MXRider View Post
Mine had a few problems with poor QC. The biggest problem is that I could only get a few clicks of preload adjustment out of it. If you tried to go farther with it the lower spring seat would spin instead of letting you adjust the collar. (It was only held in place by a small dent in the plate and it would ride over that bump and spin 90*) It did it's job but it left a lot to be desired as far as adjustments go.

Unfortunately that is a downside of that particular shock. The issue is that the black powdercoating/paint between the inside of the adjsutment collar and the base gets stuck together. It's almost like it was wet paint when put together. Whenever I upgrade those shocks I clean up that area and put a little grease in there and it's not a problem after that.
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 09:28 PM
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Can u use a rear stand to do this


Sent from my iPhone 4s
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
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Can u use a rear stand to do this


Sent from my iPhone 4s
no, you have to relieve the weight off the swing arm.

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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 09:37 PM
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Im a newbie on this.
How do i do this?



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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlipDiver79 View Post
no, you have to relieve the weight off the swing arm.
+1

I have hooks in the ceiling of my shop just for this purpose. Unless you have solid-mount footpegs like the original poster, hanging it is about the only way to go (safely, that is!)

Last edited by jamiedaugherty; 06-10-2012 at 09:41 PM.
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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 10:03 PM
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i have oem pegs fml
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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-15-2012, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamiedaugherty View Post
+1

I have hooks in the ceiling of my shop just for this purpose. Unless you have solid-mount footpegs like the original poster, hanging it is about the only way to go (safely, that is!)
I have to remove my rear shock for every preload adjustment too.
Poor design : (
I tried to use the C spanner supplied, it can't sit flush on the teeth for leveraging coz my swing arm is in the way?

For those of you who doesn't have ceiling for straps to lift it up, or don't have a solid non-foldable footpeg like OP........or a strong friend, you can do as follow alone, 10 minutes job for removing th rear shock all u need is one rope and one jack.

1. Turn your front wheels to lock position.

2. tie a rope on your front brake (so the front will go no where when rear is lifted)

3. Remove your rear hugger, and clutch side lower fairing

4. Loose the top and bottom nut of the rear shock on the picture shown by rshackleford *just loose it, slighly hand tight it, but don't remove it*

5. Place a jack under your oil pan to lift it up, place a woodblock in between so you won't get any scratch or dent on it.

6. Stand on the clutch side, Slower lift up the jack, your rear wheel will be lifted, while having all the weight on your front wheel and kickstand.

7. Once you have lift the rear off the ground, slightly lower it back until the rear wheel is just touching the ground. This will offset the weight that are pulling the bottom rear shock bolt by the triangle brackets.

8. Once u have the rear wheel at the position I said. You should be able to remove the bottom bolt by just your bare hand. If you can't, just slightly adjust your rear wheel position up or down til you can remove the bottom bolt easily. If u are banging u are not doing it right.

9. Once bottom bolt is removed, then remove the top bolt. Now just remove the rear shock by jiggering the top, and push it up from the bottom.

To put it back just do things in the reverse order, but tighten the bolts and nuts to the torque spec be before you bring down the rear completely.
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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-15-2012, 07:07 AM
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Soo...penske needs to go in from the bottom with the dogbone removed? Just asking because I will be installing mine soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by frollo View Post
hey just wanted to say great write up. i put on a penske double 8983 and followed the instructions and wanted to let everybody know that a penske shock setup for a fatty like me 240+ needs to go in from the bottom instead of the top.

in order to do this you need to take off the lower plastics
take off the bolt for the swing arm into the dogbone. then take off the frame into the dogbone bolt and you can slide it up from there.

'08 GRAFFITI
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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 08:50 AM
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i have oem pegs fml
know its a bit late in this, but you can do this with stock footpegs.
There is a pin where the peg hinges. remove the pin, flip the footpeg over, reinstall.
This makes the footpeg hinge down rather than up and lets you use the jackstands under the pegs to hold the bike up.

Anything is possible, somethings are probably, this is what it is. And I will continue to deal with what is, until it is no more.

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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 12-29-2012, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetalf4i View Post
know its a bit late in this, but you can do this with stock footpegs.
There is a pin where the peg hinges. remove the pin, flip the footpeg over, reinstall.
This makes the footpeg hinge down rather than up and lets you use the jackstands under the pegs to hold the bike up.

I never thought of that!
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 03:43 PM
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Just installed Elka shock recently. Used this thread for guidance, thanks all. I will say, you can do this with the stock rear sets without turning the pegs upside down.

Place the jack stands under the rearsets just in from where they fold. Pretty stable, I bumped it hard and it rocked all crazy but didn't fall. Elka rear shock is a tough fit, gotta twist and turn alot to get it right. Credit goes to my buddy on the jack stand placement.
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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetalf4i View Post
know its a bit late in this, but you can do this with stock footpegs.
There is a pin where the peg hinges. remove the pin, flip the footpeg over, reinstall.
This makes the footpeg hinge down rather than up and lets you use the jackstands under the pegs to hold the bike up.
I want to swap out my rear shock and have oem pegs. Just wondering if anyone has flipped them as described here. Any downside to ding that? Thanks.
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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 09:11 AM
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even easier - remove one of the footrest plate mounting bolts and insert a longer M8 bolt. Put the car stands under these bolts.
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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 10:09 AM
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