How To: Fork Seal Replacement on an '07 - Page 3 - 600RR.net
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post #61 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 06:44 PM
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I have my bike on a rear stand and (no kidding) a 2X4 under the frame where the lower triple is. It's not super stable, but it works. Make sure you chock the wheels of your rear stand so it doesn't go sliding backwards. The pic is of my '03. The car jack is under the oil pan but is there in case the whole contracption starts to fall. There isn't any weight on it.
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post #62 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by randomwalk101 View Post
Jim,
As for tools, if you take a look at this link, please tell us what tool you would buy to make this go smoothly.

http://www.racetech.com/page.aspx?id=70&menuid=57

I'm thinking:

1) FORK SPRING COMPRESSOR
2) CARTRIDGE ROD HOLDING TOOL
3) FORK TUBE DISASSEMBLY TOOL
All you really need is this:
http://traxxionstore.com/detail-25.aspx
and this:
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0123/
Although this would be cool:
http://traxxionstore.com/detail-12.aspx
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post #63 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 09:06 AM
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All you really need is this:
http://traxxionstore.com/detail-25.aspx
Won't this be better Jim?

http://old.racetech.com/popupwindow/...ressorTool.asp

So much stuffs I wanted to buy, so little money...Damn it! :D
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post #64 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-22-2009, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Definitely. If I was gonna do them all the time, I'd get one. It's a little hard in my mind to justify the extra $$$ for something I do once every two years, maybe.
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post #65 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-22-2009, 08:55 PM
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Maybe this should be in a new thread, but it's on topic, so I'll ask it here.....

I've purchased the Ohlins internals (compression and rebound valves and .90 springs) for my '08 and will be ripping into the damper in a couple weeks when all the parts have arrived.

Here's my question... In reading the Ohlins FPK 106 installation manual, there is a step where the cap is taken off the damper to get to the rebound valve. They show the use of the Honda Fork Damper Holder while heating with a heat gun and clamping in a 24mm soft jaw. OK, so here's the question... Is it possible to get that puppy off without the special Honda tool, or do I need to buy it too?

http://bore-tech.com/catalog/hondafo...bfe5f5d0859a22

Thanks!
-jeff
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post #66 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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I don't know, but I'd be very interested in seeing some pic of that procedure.
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post #67 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 01:53 PM
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I'll do it. Just waiting for the springs. I hear they're on backorder from Sweden...

In the meatime, if anyone's interested, here's the Ohlins install guide for the valves:
http://ohlins.com/Products/MountingI.../MI_FPK106.pdf
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post #68 of 190 (permalink) Old 11-28-2009, 06:23 PM
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Hey Guys, Jim....A quick FYI on the fork bolt. instead of using a 24mm hex socket, use a 15/16 hex standard instead.. it fits alot better on the bolt and it will keep it from stripping the corner. unfortunate for me, i messed up one side already so i'd have to replace it with another one. I found one at hondapartsnation.com for like 26.00 each. (see link below) if anyone might need to replace theirs.. =0) just select your year, make, and model and it'll give a drop bar to select what parts you need to get and a detailed pic.


http://www.hondapartsnation.com/page...d/7/Honda.aspx

Last edited by A.G.; 11-28-2009 at 06:36 PM.
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post #69 of 190 (permalink) Old 01-08-2010, 01:04 PM
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good details, i needed this mine is leaking all over strut
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post #70 of 190 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Do it quick, before it gets on your brake pads.
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post #71 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 02:17 PM
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what kind of oil should i use? weight?

"i'd rather be on my bike thinking about church than be in church thinking about my bike?

-leave on 2 wheels... come back on 2 wheels
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post #72 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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what kind of oil should i use? weight?
I just used whatever they had at the local shop. I don't remember what it was.
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post #73 of 190 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 12:31 AM
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what kind of oil should i use? weight?
Dealer will let you know what you need
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post #74 of 190 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 08:45 AM
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Get a 5 wt oil. Ultra Slick is killer but pricey.
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post #75 of 190 (permalink) Old 03-12-2010, 09:44 PM
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Jim, great write-up buddy. I've got a question: The fork compressor on the Traxxion website does not list the 05-08 CBR 600rr in the list of compatible bikes. I've got an '05. Despite my (and your) bike not being on the list, the tool will work anyway?

I'm looking at the tool you pointed out in a link:
http://www.traxxion.com/detail-25.aspx

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post #76 of 190 (permalink) Old 03-14-2010, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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You may want to call them on Monday, but I'm pretty sure it will work. The 03 and 04 didn't have USD forks, so they are listed as NA. I don't know why the list hasn't been updated to include the late model 600RR series.
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post #77 of 190 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 12:18 AM
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You may want to call them on Monday, but I'm pretty sure it will work. The 03 and 04 didn't have USD forks, so they are listed as NA. I don't know why the list hasn't been updated to include the late model 600RR series.
Okay, so I called Traxxion today and they said the Fork Spring Compressor Kit is universal for all upside-down forks.

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post #78 of 190 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, so I called Traxxion today and they said the Fork Spring Compressor Kit is universal for all upside-down forks.
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post #79 of 190 (permalink) Old 03-16-2010, 09:03 AM
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great write up

TEAM BLACK
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post #80 of 190 (permalink) Old 04-28-2010, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Let's stop here for a second before you screw the fork bolt back on. The directions say to turn your suspension adjustment all the way counterclockwise before you start this project. OK, fine. Unfortunately, when I put everything back together, I only had about 1 1/2 turns of adjustment on the top damping adjuster, instead of the 4 turns I was supposed to have. WTF? I called the guys at Traxxion. They told me that I had to turn the adjusting screw back clockwise as many turns as I was looking for (4 in this case) before I tightened the fork bolt against the lock nut. Unfortunately I didn't learn this until the fork and wheel were back on the bike, so I had to take it all back apart again. You guys can learn it here and save yourselves some aggro.
Guys,

I learned something yesterday. My assumptions in the paragraph above aren't quite correct. Here's the real deal. Your rebound damping adjustment throw is set as follows. First, run the locknut all the way down to the bottom. Take your fork cap and turn the rebound adjuster all the way out. Then screw it in three turns. Now screw your fork cap onto the cartridge. It will bottom out before it reaches the locknut. Then screw the locknut up to meet the fork cap. That will give you three turns of adjustment with your rebound adjuster.
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post #81 of 190 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 11:53 PM
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Guys,

I learned something yesterday. My assumptions in the paragraph above aren't quite correct. Here's the real deal. Your rebound damping adjustment throw is set as follows. First, run the locknut all the way down to the bottom. Take your fork cap and turn the rebound adjuster all the way out. Then screw it in three turns. Now screw your fork cap onto the cartridge. It will bottom out before it reaches the locknut. Then screw the locknut up to meet the fork cap. That will give you three turns of adjustment with your rebound adjuster.
The fork cap is the huge blue thing that is connected to the gray nut (the one my wrench is turning).
The locknut is the darker gray nut on the left side of the picture.
The black wad of metal is the Traxxion Dynamics fork tool holding down the white fork spring spacer.


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post #82 of 190 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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You are correct, sir. Is my explanation of setting the rebound adjsuter common knowledge? It was news to me. That's why I love doing this stuff myself. I learn all kinds of cool **** like that.
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post #83 of 190 (permalink) Old 05-10-2010, 10:03 AM
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You are correct, sir. Is my explanation of setting the rebound adjsuter common knowledge? It was news to me. That's why I love doing this stuff myself. I learn all kinds of cool **** like that.
Common knowledge? I've never heard anyone talk about the lock nut, and I had no idea... I had to take apart my forks twice to get it right. The first time I put them together I had about 10 turns of adjustment on one side and 3-5 on the other side.

I was very surprised that my Haynes service manual made no mention of adjusting the lock nut to get the rebound adjustment range set correctly--weird.

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post #84 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-07-2010, 03:28 AM
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Yes I had a a large battle with the jamb nut on the rebound damper that needed to be spun up from the bottle like Jim advised in order to set the rebound damping knob/adjuster on the top of the fork.

I need to take my forks apart 2x to sort that out as well. So now that part works.

However I am having trouble with some noises inside the forks on both. When I hold the front brake and bounce on the front suspension. There feels like some grinding or parts internally that are chafing, or rubbing incorrectly. Is this normal? I was under the impression the forks shouldn't make any noise and should be silky smooth.
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post #85 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 05:38 PM
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thinking about doing this!!! but need to know if this all you would need?:

- the circled items in attached picture

- this http://www.traxxion.com/detail-12.aspx

- this http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0123/


if this is correct i think MAYBE i can do this hahaha

just need to make sure that is all the parts i need from OEM?
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post #86 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-07-2010, 06:30 PM
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thinking about doing this!!! but need to know if this all you would need?:

- the circled items in attached picture

- this http://www.traxxion.com/detail-12.aspx

- this http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0123/


if this is correct i think MAYBE i can do this hahaha

just need to make sure that is all the parts i need from OEM?
If you don't plan on ever doing much suspension work, that kit from traxxion will do well.

Check out bikebandit for the seals and the seal driver. They have the 41mm seal driver on sale for close to half off right now (I ordered one last night). Even with no discounts from Bike Bandit, suspension tools I bought were $30 less than Kneedraggers, and that was with a $25 off discount and $10 in puckbucks.

#14 is all you need parts wise. Remember to order 2 of them. The inner and outer fork bushings shouldn't be worn much (unless it's a high mileage bike), but it's best to inspect them when you remove the forks and decide if they need replacement or not. If they do need to be replaced, some lower friction coated ones like what Race Tech has would be a good upgrade. OE bushings will do just fine.

#11 is just the clip that holds in the fork seal. Shouldn't ever need to be replaced unless it gets lost.
#6 is just some ring/washer that isn't a wearing part.
#7-8 are the inner/outer bushings.

Last edited by Demented; 07-07-2010 at 06:34 PM.
post #87 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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I would also order 1 of the #3. That's where you use your tool to compress the spring. It's a little delicate. I have broken them before. It only costs about $10 and it sucks not to have one when you need it.
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post #88 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 07:53 AM
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I would also order 1 of the #3. That's where you use your tool to compress the spring. It's a little delicate. I have broken them before. It only costs about $10 and it sucks not to have one when you need it.
PVC tubing from Home Depot or Lowes is cheaper and works just as well.
post #89 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 02:57 PM
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dont have the manual, what level does the oil need to be at?

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post #90 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 03:09 PM
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110mm from the top I believe.
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