How To: Fork Seal Replacement on an '07 - Page 4 - 600RR.net
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post #91 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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dont have the manual, what level does the oil need to be at?
From teh manual: 93 mm (3.7 in)
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post #92 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 03:24 PM
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conformation anyone? ordered all my parts and all the tools.. EFF im nervious.

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post #93 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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It's pretty easy. I had never done one before ai did my first one. Why are you doing it? Leaky fork seal?
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post #94 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 04:00 PM
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Just be careful, confident, and it'll be hard to **** anything up. Always double check your work.

Jim, is that 93mm before or after the cart is bled? Honda has a weird method for bleeding the forks and setting the oil level.
post #95 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 05:21 PM
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yeah thats where i want to double check i figure honda is going to be goofy. also is there any special method for bleeding the cart besides puling up and pushing it back down a few times?

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post #96 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 05:26 PM
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Just pull up and push down slowly on the damping rod.
post #97 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 06:15 PM
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so i have about a week for confirming information on how to measure, would like the number from a bleed cart. that way i know what my running oil level is.

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post #98 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 07:01 PM
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I just checked the service manual, and it does say 93mm from the top. I find that to be a bit excessive. Honda states to put 14.0 +/- 0.08 fl.oz into the forks, bleed them (you slowly pull up and push down on the damping rod to prevent cavitation in the fluid), and then suck out any excess so that you are left with a level of 93mm from top.

Are you going to be leaving the oil lock valves intact? If so, I'd go with what the manual states. If you'll be removing or modifying them to be inop, I'd set it at 100mm from top and change up or down in increments of 5mm depending on the feeling you're getting.

The airspace in the fork tubes acts like an air spring. As the fork compresses, the air space gets smaller, building air pressure. Less air space (ex. 90mm from top) offers more bottoming resistance, while more air space (ex. 110mm from top) offers less.

How much do you weight, riding style (do you like the front soft or stiff), tire sidewall stiffness, track or street & skill level. Doing anything else fork wise like new valving or springs?

Last edited by Demented; 07-08-2010 at 07:03 PM.
post #99 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 07:31 PM
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Yeah 93mm on standard forks is correct, fully bleed and with the rod fully bottomed out. Also maybe 2 x #18 if you dont want to reuse them.
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post #100 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 07:35 PM
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well im right at 200lbs my riding style has been pushing the front more than i would like. the current BT-016 i am replacing this week actually wore out the front before the rear. so i must be pushing her. but there wear doesnt show anything out of the norm debris field is normal just wering faster on the front than the rear on my canyon rides

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post #101 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-08-2010, 08:07 PM
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well im right at 200lbs my riding style has been pushing the front more than i would like. the current BT-016 i am replacing this week actually wore out the front before the rear. so i must be pushing her. but there wear doesnt show anything out of the norm debris field is normal just wering faster on the front than the rear on my canyon rides
If you're turning more then you're getting on the gas hard, I wouldn't be worried about the front wearing out faster than the rear.

If you can get your sag right, I'd probably try 95mm on the oil level, 100mm if you're getting rid of the oil locks.

Personally, I'll be running 130mm below top when I get my RT cart's installed.
post #102 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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You may want to think about some heavier fork springs. You can pick up a set of Ohlins from hardracing for about $125. They're plug and play, no other modifications required.
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post #103 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 09:01 AM
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yeah i have been thinking about that. i wanted to hook up with Dave moss or some one to tell what spring i need and help me set it up. any way i guess now its just the waiting game.

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post #104 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 09:14 AM
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yeah i have been thinking about that. i wanted to hook up with Dave moss or some one to tell what spring i need and help me set it up. any way i guess now its just the waiting game.
Assuming bike is close to OE weight
0.955 kg/mm for street use
1.005 kg/mm for track use or 0.968 kg/mm if you remove all of the street stuff like headlights, turn signals, etc.

Stock is 1.0 kg/mm, so you're good with the OE springs.

But, even Ohlins springs which are OE length still need slight "modification" with shimming or tirmming the spring holder to set the preload correctly, which is just taking some measurements, basic math (+ and -), and cutting the spring holders to length.
post #105 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 10:32 AM
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well my prob i have to get the bike weighed before i pic the spring. i have dome some serious mods that have shaved some serious weight. so once i get it double checked then i can proceed with that.

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post #106 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 10:39 AM
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well my prob i have to get the bike weighed before i pic the spring. i have dome some serious mods that have shaved some serious weight. so once i get it double checked then i can proceed with that.
Well, for when you weight the bike, check for the rate you'd need here.
http://old.racetech.com/evalving/Spr...ork&bikeid=209

Semi-wet weight is with the bike riding prepped, but only 1/2 tank of fuel. Any type of suspension measurement should be done with 1/2 tank of fuel, that way you get a good compromise between a full and empty tank (start and finish of a race).
post #107 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 10:52 AM
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thanks demented!!! i will def keep that in mind when i get her on the scale!

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post #108 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 10:56 AM
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No prob. Remember to factor in tire sidewall stiffness too. Softer tires will need a lighter spring rate.
For the 016's, they're pretty stiff.
post #109 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 11:06 AM
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Link isn't working

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post #110 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 11:13 AM
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Strange, works for me.
www.racetech.com
search > spring rate search > street > Honda > CBR600RR > year > Custom Fork and Rear Shock Spring Calculation and Available Rates
post #111 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 11:45 AM
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yup that works!!! guess the link was just not working on my PC

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post #112 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 10:25 PM
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opened the leaky one up and knew what i saw was NOT good...


looks like it came from here


so.... does this mean the fork is toast? i had a get off on it, does this mean its bent? EFF!!!! ORRRR is it the get off just caused the teflon to become loose and flake off?

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post #113 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 10:31 PM
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opened the leaky one up and knew what i saw was NOT good...
[IMG]http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/browningbuck/DSC_5978.jpg[IMG]

looks like it came from here
[IMG]http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/browningbuck/DSC_5980.jpg[/MG]

so.... does this mean the fork is toast? i had a get off on it, does this mean its bent? EFF!!!! ORRRR is it the get off just caused the teflon to become loose and flake off?
It's normal for the bushings to wear out. Go take a look at the pics in my why oh why thread, though there not as bad as yours.

The bushings are what the inner and outer fork tubes actually slide on. Forks actually flex back and forth and side to side. That puts pressure on the bushings and wears them out. This is mostly why forks should be serviced every 20 hours of track time or about 12,000 street miles.
OE fluid also isn't the greatest and it can contribute.
There's also the possibility that slide hammering the outer tube off took some of the teflon off.

Though, told ya you'd probably need bushings.
post #114 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 10:45 PM
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oh i knew with the hit i was replacing EVERYTHING! haahah, hopefully in 2 or 3k miles im not weeping again :( but im waiting for my 41mm slide since motion pro screwed up and sent me some guys glasses and my tools to some TOOL!!! last time i order from these guys!!!

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post #115 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010, 10:52 PM
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Let me know if your MP seal driver is machined right.
post #116 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-15-2010, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Let me know if your MP seal driver is machined right.
Mine is good-to-go.
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post #117 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-16-2010, 12:02 PM
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seal driver was ehhh, maybe i epected more with the pin alignment? i dont know? it did the job.

but damn the learning curve was tough... but after i got through the procedure on the first one, the second probably took me only 5 min? the hardest part was keeping the dampening rod up long enough to get the retainer clip in :angry: !!!

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post #118 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-16-2010, 12:37 PM
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That's why I bought the good spring compressor. I can hold the cap and the rod up with basically two fingers with little effort.
post #119 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-16-2010, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Yeha, that's a nice tool. If I was gonna do them all the time I'd probably get one. Since I'm not (I hope), my trick in post #26 works pretty well.
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post #120 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-16-2010, 01:30 PM
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I have the same fork spring compressor D, its very nice.
I laugh at people who say you can just pull the cartridge out without disassembly, slap new seals in and fill the fork up.
that is not even close to correct.
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