How To: Fork Seal Replacement on an '07 - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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How To: Fork Seal Replacement on an '07

Fellas,

I just finished a fork seal replacement on my '07. I am doing a How-To, but it is going to take a day or two, so bear with me. Your first step is to go the to supermarket and buy every roll of paper towels they have in stock. This gonna be a MESSY job.

Back from the store? OK, now, sit down and watch these two videos. They will teach you more than I ever will.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y43k1qFVGW4


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9ICr-DOmdk

Done? OK, now, go to the link below and order a fork spring compression kit fro the guys at Traxxion Dyanmics. Someone here made his own tool, but I ain't got those mad skills. You can get it delivered in a day or two for about $40, so I highly recommend it. This is the only special tool that you really need. I used a few others, which I'll explain as I go along.

http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=FSCK

OK, now out to the bike. First, take off the front wheel and front fender. If your front stand uses the forks, you're going to have figure out something else. I used my floor jack under the exhaust, then put jackstands under the frame sliders. (Note: If you don't have a floor jack, go buy one. What are you, a girl?)

Dammit, why are my fonts all screwed up?
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post #2 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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OK, now let's get the fork off. First, turn all your suspension adjusters all the way counterclockwise. Then, loosen the top fork pinch bolts. BTW, all the plastic is off my bike. I'm not sure what all needs to come off to get to these bolts. Upper and lower mids maybe? Anyway, then loosen, but don't remove the big fork bolt. I'm pointing to it in this pic. It is a 24 mm hex.
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post #3 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Next, loosen the bottom fork bolts and pull the fork out the bottom of the bike. Hold the fork tube and spin the 24 mm fork bolt until it is free from the tube. At that point the fork tube will slide down and leave the inside of the fork exposed, as shown. Note: If you read the manual, it sort of leads you to believe that the fork tube is two pieces. It's not. The whole thing slides down.
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Last edited by Jim Moore; 06-12-2008 at 12:51 PM.
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post #4 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Now it's time to use your special tool from Traxxion. Hook up your tool, push the spring down and have someone slide the holder under the locknut. Sounds easy, but it is a PITA. It took every bit of my 155 lb to push that spring down. Here is a pic with the fork spring holder in place.
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Last edited by Jim Moore; 06-12-2008 at 12:52 PM.
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post #5 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Now unscrew the fork bolt and pull it out. the entire assembly comes out. Shown here.
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post #6 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 07:56 AM
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What can the 07 / 08 crowd do without you thanks man



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post #7 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 08:23 AM
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I just did mine too and you dont need a spring tool to change the seals. I just bought the seal driver and you can use pvc for that.
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post #8 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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OK, back to it. After you remove the fork bolt, you can take off the spring holder. You can now pull out the two white plastic pieces, the rubbber gromet, and the spring itself. Next, dump out the fork oil. You can pump the fork tube up and down a bunch of times to help get the oil out. You will never get it all out, so it will continue to be a big mess throughout the process. According to the manual, the next step is to remove the damping adjuster from the bottom of the fork. Having done it once, I don't think it is necessary, although it's pretty easy.

The next step has a lot of potential for screw ups, so be careful. You have to remove the bolt at the bottom of the fork. There are several issues. First, the bolt is recessed way up into the fork, so your typical hex bit won't reach it. Also, the bolt itself is super shallow, so it is easy to strip out. I bought a set of long reach hex sockets for this job, but they were ball-end (all they had) so they didn't work on the shallow bolt head. Pisssed me right off. Two other potential problems. That bolt is usually on very tight (25 ft-lb). That doesn't seem like alot, but there is really no way to hold it still while you apply pressure unless you have a vise, which I don't. I ended up using the long end of an 8mm hex key and using the axle to increase my moment arm. Pictured here. Once it breaks loose you have to hold the damper rod from the top while you unscew the bolt. Also, you have to remove one of the axle pinch bolts to get the bolt all the way out. Note: I figured out a better way to get the bolt loose / tight when I put it back together. I'll show you later.
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post #9 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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After you get the bolt out, pull out the damper rod and set it aside.
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post #10 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Pop off the dust seal.
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post #11 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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And the stopper ring.
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post #12 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Now you simply pull the slider out of the tube. It is easier said than done. It takes a couple of pretty good yanks to get it out. After they separate, you should see what is in the pic. Use a screwdriverto slightly pry the bushings open and pull them off. Everything else just pulls off. Make sure you notice the orientation of the fork seal. Reinstall your new parts in reverse order. Note: There are two sharp ridges on the slider that your seal has to go over. I covered them with electrical tape.
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post #13 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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OK, slide your slider into the tube and bust out your 41 mm seal driver from Motion Pro. You could probably make a seal driver out of PVC pipe since this tool is a little expensive, but man, it is trick! Couple of whacks with the seal driver and you can feel the seal "clank" into place. Then put your snap ring and dust seal back in. Simple.
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post #14 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 10:45 AM
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What can the 07 / 08 crowd do without you thanks man
Me personally.. allot.:book1::all_cohol
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post #15 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Now it's time to install the fork damper and tighten the bottom bolt. As I mentioned earlier, this can be a PITA, so make sure you have the right tools. The set of extended reach hex bits (which didn't work because of the ball-ends) had been sitting on the workbench snickering at me for the past two hours. Little did they know that I had surreptitiously plugged in my dremel tool as I was working. Quick as a snake, I whipped out the dremel and hacked the ball-end right off one of those little SOBs. Voila, the perfect tool for the bottom fork bolt. Tthe tool originally looked like the one on the left. Now it looks like the one on the right. In fact, it is the one on the right.
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post #16 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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It was still very difficult to get the required torque on the bolt. I ended up inserting the axle partway and using that as a handle to hold the fork still, as shown below. Sneaky! torque to 25 ft-lb.
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post #17 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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After you get that sorted out, reinsert the damping plug at the bottom of the fork and pour in .413 liters of fork oil. Insert the damping rod. Pump the fork tube up and down a few times, then pump the damping rod a bunch of times to bleed the system. It didn't say how much, so i did it until no more air bubbles came out. You should be able to see the fork oil in the tube. After it settles for 5 minutes measure the distance down to the oil. It should be 3.7 inches. Adjust as necessary.

Now it is time to screw your fork bolt back on to your damping rod. First, you need to use the fork spring compression kit to compress the spring like you did before, but there is a new twist. The damper rod will slide down into the tube so you need to figure out a way to hold it up while you are compressing the spring. Honda makes a special tool, but I screwed a piece of 1/4" ID fuel line onto the top of the damper. My assistant used it to hold the damper up while I pushed down on the spring. See the pic.
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post #18 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Let's stop here for a second before you screw the fork bolt back on. The directions say to turn your suspension adjustment all the way counterclockwise before you start this project. OK, fine. Unfortunately, when I put everything back together, I only had about 1 1/2 turns of adjustment on the top damping adjuster, instead of the 4 turns I was supposed to have. WTF? I called the guys at Traxxion. They told me that I had to turn the adjusting screw back clockwise as many turns as I was looking for (4 in this case) before I tightened the fork bolt against the lock nut. Unfortunately I didn't learn this until the fork and wheel were back on the bike, so I had to take it all back apart again. You guys can learn it here and save yourselves some aggro.

So, with that done, tighten the fork bolt down onto the locknut. Then slide the tube up and tighten it to the fork bolt. Don't worry if you can't get it tight. Just get it hand tight.

Now, reinsert the fork into the bike from below. Slide it up all the way. Don't worry about measuring, it hits a stop at the top. Hold it up and tighten the BOTTOM pinch bolts to 20 ft-lb. Now, use the 24 mmhex to tighten the fork bolt to 25 ft-lb. Now, tighten the top pinch bolt to 16 ft-lb and the handlebar pinch bolt to 20 ft-lb. Put the wheel and the fender back on. Congrats. You're done.
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post #19 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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I just did mine too and you dont need a spring tool to change the seals.
How did you hold it down?
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post #20 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 02:47 PM
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How did you hold it down?
I didnt just took the 8mm allen out the bottom and the whole thing comes out as 1 piece.

its a little harder to get the oil in but with the 14 oz they say to put in with the fork tube all they way down you basicly just fill it to the top then close it up.

I was worried about changing my seals but after doing it I would do it for other people for like 25 bucks a fork
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post #21 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-12-2008, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Good job! I was wondering if you could do that.
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post #22 of 190 (permalink) Old 06-20-2008, 07:52 PM
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awesome write up!
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post #23 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 04:54 AM
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Wow...excellent write up...Mad Props to Jim Moore!!!!
So instead of buying the fork seal driver, you can get a 2" PCV pipe, cut in 1/2 and use that?

Also, on a different note, does the rear shock ever needs servicing? I never hear anyone mention about the rear leaking etc...
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post #24 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-16-2008, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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So instead of buying the fork seal driver, you can get a 2" PCV pipe, cut in 1/2 and use that?
2" would be too big. The fork is 41 mm, so maybe 1 5/8? I dunno.
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post #25 of 190 (permalink) Old 08-02-2008, 01:09 AM
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Now it's time to use your special tool from Traxxion. Hook up your tool, push the spring down and have someone slide the holder under the locknut. Sounds easy, but it is a PITA. It took every bit of my 155 lb to push that spring down. Here is a pic with the fork spring holder in place.
Jim,

Here is a fork spring compressor...a little pricey but is a lot easier.

http://www.racetech.com/shopping/sho...howPage=street
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post #26 of 190 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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OK, I had to do the other one today and I learned a few tihgns. First, if you are just doing to fork seal, you don't need to take the cartridge out, so you can skip the info in posts 8 and 15.

Second, the spring compression was totally kicking my ass. I have the tool, but it is still a MFer to get it compressed enough to insert the holder. Rreference post 4. I decided to try to use my floor jack to compres the spring. i attached the fork to the neck of my trailer, and looped some tie down straps around the arms of the compression tool. I hooked the tie downs to the bottom of the jack and jacked that biatch right on up. It worked like a champ. Here's a pic.
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post #27 of 190 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 04:55 PM
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I guess you didn't read the post above yours

So much stuffs I wanted to buy, so little money...Damn it! :D
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post #28 of 190 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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I guess you didn't read the post above yours
No, I did, totally. That's what got me to thinking that I could jury-rig something. In fact, I meant to say "thanks" and give you credit.
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post #29 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-09-2009, 02:54 AM
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soooo... 07/08 and 05/06 inverted forks are the same mirite? Cuz all I can find on here is the 03/04 and 07/08 fork seal guides lol. So I'm gonna assume it the same and start on my seasl tomorrow :D
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post #30 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-09-2009, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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I think so. I don't know if the tubes are the same size, so I don't know what size seal driver you need. Let us know how it goes.
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