Galfer Stainless Steel Line Installation + Speedbleeders - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
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Galfer Stainless Steel Line Installation + Speedbleeders

I used Andrewbox's instructions, but after I closed the window, I couldn't find the thread again. Also, I've added a couple pics. This was my first time doing ANYTHING to any type of brakes, so it took me about 2 hours, but I remember Andrew's thread said it should take about an hour.

Tools Needed:
Brake Lines
Ratchet Wrench (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm heads)
1 qt brake fluid (i used Motul RBF600)
Speedbleeders
plastic tubing
water bottle with water in it
rag and bucket of water

Got these from sumofallparts through the group buy; $125 front and rear


Front Lines
1. Put the bike up on stands, just to make it easier and safer


2. Removed the stock bleeder valve with 8mm wrench and replaced it with a speedbleeder on both sides. Bled the brake lines and the master cylinder.




3. Use 12mm wrench to remove brake line bolts on left and right sides.




4. Take off the bolts holding the brake lines to the front fender (8mm right side, 10mm left side)




5. Remove the bolt holding the lines just above the radiator (8mm). You can access it by turning the handlebars all the way to the right and ratcheting between the gauges and the handlebars.


6. Undo the bolt holding the lines to the master cylinder.

-2007 CBR 600RR Blue/Silver-
-Arrow GP Full Exhaust + Power Commander III-
-Vortex Silver Rearsets-
-Lockhart Phillips Flush Mounts-
-Targa Fender Eliminator-
-Honda Solo Cowl-
-TechSpec Snakeskin Tank Pads-
-LSL Silver Crash Pads-
-ASV Shorty Silver Levers-
-Puig Smoke DB Racing Screen-
-Progrip 719 Grips-
-Carrozzeria SIlver Powdercoat Wheels-
-Scorpio SR-i900 Alarm-
-Galfer Stainless Steel Brake Lines/Motul RBF600 Fluid-
-Armour Bodies SuperSport Fairings-
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post #2 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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7. The left Galfer line (longer) goes on top of the right line, and the bolt goes up through the bottom (master cylinder-washer-line-washer-line-banjo bolt).


8. Bolt the Galfer lines to the master cylinder (14mm)


9. Route the lines through the space where the stock ones were, longer one goes on left side of the front fender, shorter on the right. Bolt in at 12.5 lb-ft torque (banjo bolt-washer-line-washer-caliper).




10. Use the bracket from the left side stock line, with or without the rubber piece, and bolt the Galfer line to the front fender (7 lb-ft)


11. Use the stock bracket w/ or w/out the rubber piece to bolt both of the lines right above the radiator.


12. Unscrew the master cylinder and bleed the brakes, with the rubber diaphragm piece out. Then, replace the cover.




Finished product:



-2007 CBR 600RR Blue/Silver-
-Arrow GP Full Exhaust + Power Commander III-
-Vortex Silver Rearsets-
-Lockhart Phillips Flush Mounts-
-Targa Fender Eliminator-
-Honda Solo Cowl-
-TechSpec Snakeskin Tank Pads-
-LSL Silver Crash Pads-
-ASV Shorty Silver Levers-
-Puig Smoke DB Racing Screen-
-Progrip 719 Grips-
-Carrozzeria SIlver Powdercoat Wheels-
-Scorpio SR-i900 Alarm-
-Galfer Stainless Steel Brake Lines/Motul RBF600 Fluid-
-Armour Bodies SuperSport Fairings-
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post #3 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-01-2008, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Lines
1. Unbolt the banjo bolt (12mm).


2. Bleed the rear brake.


3. Undo the right-side rear hugger bolt and remove the bracket.


4. Using the stock bracket with or without the rubber piece, bolt the hugger bolt back in, holding the Galfer line in place. Tighten the new banjo bolt at 12.5 lb-ft (14mm, banjo bolt-washer-line-washer-brake)


5. Bolt the banjo bolt to the caliper (banjo bolt-washer-line-washer-caliper) and bleed the brakes, with the rubber diaphragm out of the rear brake reservoir.

You're done!

I have a question though...do I keep the rubber diaphragm in the reservoirs once I'm done bleeding? I've had them in there for a day and it seems fine.

-2007 CBR 600RR Blue/Silver-
-Arrow GP Full Exhaust + Power Commander III-
-Vortex Silver Rearsets-
-Lockhart Phillips Flush Mounts-
-Targa Fender Eliminator-
-Honda Solo Cowl-
-TechSpec Snakeskin Tank Pads-
-LSL Silver Crash Pads-
-ASV Shorty Silver Levers-
-Puig Smoke DB Racing Screen-
-Progrip 719 Grips-
-Carrozzeria SIlver Powdercoat Wheels-
-Scorpio SR-i900 Alarm-
-Galfer Stainless Steel Brake Lines/Motul RBF600 Fluid-
-Armour Bodies SuperSport Fairings-
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post #4 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-05-2008, 07:16 PM
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yeah keep it there
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post #5 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 02:16 PM
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Just did my install. Came out pretty well. If anyone has any trouble with the feel of the lever after the install try bleeding the master cylinder. Made a night/day difference!

2009 CBR600RR Phoenix
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post #6 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 02:34 PM
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what are the Speedbleeders?
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post #7 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big990 View Post
what are the Speedbleeders?
Correct me if I'm wrong ,but I believe it's a little valve that opens and lets you bleed the brakes when you grab the brakes and when you let go of the brakes, the valve closes so air does not go back into the lines.

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post #8 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 03:56 PM
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Thanks mate, a few questions if you don't mind;

- Is the right line secured anywhere on the front fender (like the left?).
- Have you used a different grade of brake fluid ... or the standard (dot4? I forget)
- I have read that you should bleed the banjo bolts as well, as they have lots of spaces where air can get trapped inside. Any comments?
- What is the best way to drain the old fluid before starting to dismantle? Sorry, I'm waiting for my lines to arrive, haven't even touched the brakes yet. As you can probably tell I have no practical experience at all .... just theoretical.


Last edited by Captain.; 10-18-2008 at 03:59 PM.
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post #9 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 05:06 PM
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I tried doing this upgrade and I can't get my new lines too bleed, guesses? I hooked everything up like the pics on here, I don't know what I'm doing wrong

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post #10 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 06:34 PM
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Mine seam well short, if i route them the way the standard lines went they will be holdin the weight if the front wheel lifts on openin the throttle they that short!

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post #11 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sincalirider View Post
I tried doing this upgrade and I can't get my new lines too bleed, guesses? I hooked everything up like the pics on here, I don't know what I'm doing wrong
When you completely drain the lines and calipers bleeding can be frustrating. Just keep it up. Start with the longest line and slowly pump the brake lever when bleeding. Move to the other line and bleed that.
I usually bleed the master cylinder first to make sure the fluid is coming through.
It takes a while sometimes.
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post #12 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 10:29 PM
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anyone have a problem with the new brake line rubbing on the upper inside of the fairing?
thanks for any help/info

Al

'08 CBR 600 RR Black/Red
Pazzo levers, OEM seat cowl, R&G frame sliders, bar ends, fork sliders, swing arm sliders, swing arm spools, Gilles VCR rear sets, Gilles chain adjuster and GP lifters,
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post #13 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 10:31 PM
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i forgot to add, only when turned all the way to the right (lock to lock)
Al

'08 CBR 600 RR Black/Red
Pazzo levers, OEM seat cowl, R&G frame sliders, bar ends, fork sliders, swing arm sliders, swing arm spools, Gilles VCR rear sets, Gilles chain adjuster and GP lifters,
Tech Specs snakeskin tank grips, Watsen Design flush mounts, Rizoma zero 11 rear turn signals, Cozye/Krash tag bracket, OEM CF license plate frame, Renthal grips, Yoshimura RS5 S/O Titanium, Woodcraft alternator and clutch cover, Shark RSR2 helmet, Puig DB race shield, Galfer brake lines front and rear,
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post #14 of 47 (permalink) Old 10-19-2008, 04:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08cbr600dkh View Post
When you completely drain the lines and calipers bleeding can be frustrating. Just keep it up. Start with the longest line and slowly pump the brake lever when bleeding. Move to the other line and bleed that.
I usually bleed the master cylinder first to make sure the fluid is coming through.
It takes a while sometimes.
Thanks, will get cracking on this as soon as I wake up

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post #15 of 47 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 07:23 PM
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I have the same problem... rubs on the upper?

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With your mind power, your determination, your instinct, and the experience as well, you can fly very high." -Ayrton Senna
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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-26-2009, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vio View Post
I have the same problem... rubs on the upper?
I do. I installed HELs, not Galfers, but I have the rubbing problem. The only thing I did different from gdpgc is that I oriented the lines at the master cylinder to run like the OEM lines, in other words they extend from the master cylinder towards the rear of the bike. Looking at the pics, gdpgc somehow managed to get his lines to extend from the master cylinder towards the front of the bike. I don't even know if I can do that on mine - the clutch cable is right there. Anybody else installed brake lines lately who cares to chime in???




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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 03:59 AM
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i think thats what problem i had with the cable in the way

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With your mind power, your determination, your instinct, and the experience as well, you can fly very high." -Ayrton Senna
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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
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i think thats what problem i had with the cable in the way
so which way do your lines run from the master cylinder - towards the back or the front?




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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 11:30 PM
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So this might be a dumb question but for the banjo bolts, do the holes have to line up with the brake line? or can they be anyware? I don't want to over tighten the bolts but it doesn't seem they will line up without giving allot of force.
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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 07:45 PM
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So this might be a dumb question but for the banjo bolts, do the holes have to line up with the brake line? or can they be anyware? I don't want to over tighten the bolts but it doesn't seem they will line up without giving allot of force.
Don't have to line up anything - just slip them in and tighten them up.




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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-09-2009, 04:52 PM
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What i did i ran one toward the front and one toward the rear... it cave in more room for the movment and wont rub as much... if anything very little.. ill take a picture tonight...

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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-10-2009, 12:16 PM
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What i did i ran one toward the front and one toward the rear... it cave in more room for the movment and wont rub as much... if anything very little.. ill take a picture tonight...
I solved my problem too - the lines were just too long. I measured the right length, sent them back to HEL, they cut them down to the right length and now everything is groovy. Both of my lines extend from the master cylinder towards the front of the bike, underneath the throttle cable.




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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-10-2009, 11:05 PM
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so I just got done installing mine. I took it for a spin and the front brakes squick a little bit and the back doesn't feel like it's braking like it did stock.




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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 03-12-2009, 11:51 AM
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I have a question about these Gafler lines. How long are they? Individualy?

I've had mine custom made and I think that one is slightly too long, so if anyone has them stil packed or if it is not too much trouble can you please measure how long they are and post it. Thanx.



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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-16-2009, 08:45 PM
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Just installed my Galfer lines finally, this thread helped a lot! Didn't need to zip tie my lever tho... Now time to crack a cold one and vast in my own glory... Off to the next mod!

MODEL: 2008 CBR600RR KONICA MINOLTA PERFORMANCE: JARDINE RT-1 (cut 2") - PCIIIUSB - K&N - VORTEX REARSETS & Gas Cap - PAZZO Shorts - Galfers - 520 -1/+3 - RIZOMA GRIPS & ENDS - DDM 55W HIDs - Woodcraft Covers - MICHELIN 2CT AESTHETICS: TRIPAGE TAIL & ADJ PLATE - FLUSH LED SIGS - PUIG DB - LAWST CAWS PLUGS - G CRAFT REP
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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 09:23 PM
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What size speed bleeders do you need for the 07 (front and rear)? I found one site that says 7mm front (1.0?) but doesn't say anything about the rear, same size or different size?

Also, brake fluid. I assume stock is DOT 3, maybe DOT 4 - any cons to going to DOT 5 or the full synthetics, like need to be changed more often?

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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 05-13-2009, 07:24 AM
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I received my lines from hardracing yesterday (great service) and used this to do the install. Relatively painless. Took around 2 hours including the distractions from having a couple friends around.

My only question is: what are you supposed to do with the front right side cable. There isn't a mount for it on the fender after the stock cable is removed. Has anyone come up with something creative?
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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-14-2010, 10:13 PM
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this is prob the best "How to bleed your brakes" how to video I've seen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkxcQzhgJLU

hope it helps you guys
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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 10:37 PM
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Question about the Crush Washers

HI have done the brakes now few times with this one. First time, I got fluid in the old pads, so I changed my new pads, bleed, done, it brakes really nice.
After couple of days, I saw a small leak on the left side banjo, I said, sh..t I did not properly tighten it, so I did some more, I went a bit pass the spec torque and BAAAAAAAAMMM, broke the bolt, thanks god it did not mess up the threads.
I replaced it with another banjo and reuse the old crush washers (wrooonng), again it worked flawlessly for couple of days, after few days, leaking again.
I finally got the new crush washers, question is, the sides are different, one side is completely flat and the other one is a bit curvy. So, how does it go on?

Flat side against bolt head (curvy against line) - line - flat side against line (curvy against caliper) ?

or the opposite:

Curvy side against Bolt head (flat against line) - line - curvy side against line (flat against caliper)

Help would be much appreciate!!.

Just do not want to have to do them again, or mess up the new crush washers.
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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010, 12:56 PM
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if im installing a new rear brake res. should i install the res. first and then install the lines? also install brake pads.. should i install everything, then bleed... my only real Q is on the res ... im worried if i take off the old one will it leak everywhere

09 black 250r : SOLD :(
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Last edited by ajaygraci; 08-19-2010 at 04:37 PM.
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