HOW TO: Check your valve clearances on your 07/08 600RR (step by step with pictures) - Page 2 -
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys. Glad to hear this thing is helping others out. I am likely going to be doing an adjustment during this winter, so stay tuned. You'll basically need to use this guide up until the valve clearance check point, but you'll need to remove your cams and then do some math to get to the right lifter height based off of your measured clearance. It isn't too many more steps what I've shown here, you just need to make sure you don't screw up your timing on the cams.

Jim hit the nail on the head about the 0.001 tolerance.

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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-06-2010, 02:01 AM
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Awesomeness. I'm probably going to be doing the actual adjustment process in spring...Not really looking forward to pulling the camshafts...

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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-26-2010, 02:53 PM
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Yeah mine is going to be needing this next summer. Definately dreading it. Good write up though, i might try it myself.

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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 07:48 AM
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I just finished this job. Outstanding write up. I have a few tips I'd like to share.

1. Take the radiator off completely. You have to unbolt it anyway. At that point it is a simple matter of draining it at the water pump and loosening the clamps. Since you only do your valves every 16K miles (if that) time it so it coincides with a coolant flush. It was super-easy to reach everything with the radiator out of the way.

2. Here's a trick to remove the coils. Approach from the front side (after you have pulled the radiator). Use a pair of needle-nose pliers, long reach if you have them. Grasp the coil with the pliers and use the pliers as a lever against the the valve cover. They pop right out with minimal effort.

3. The spark plugs came out easily. You need a few different sized extensions to reach them. It is a tight fit, so on a few of them you have to insert your spark plug socket partway into the hole, then assemble your extensions one at a time. I replaced mine (32K miles) but i don't think I bneeded to. They were fine. Definitely don't replace them at 16K.

4. I replaced my valve cover gasket too. I don't it was necessary. It's a pricy item at $55, so don't do it unless your old one is messed up.

All that said, it's very difficult to get an accurate measurement. You are forced to bend your guage to get it to slip into the space. Once that guage is bent or twisted even slightly it makes all your measurements seem tighter than they actually are. IMO if you can get the minimum spec guage (or even the one .001 smaller) into the space you are good-to-go.
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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 08-29-2011, 12:38 PM
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Beautiful Thread. About to roll 18k on mine so I def need to do this!

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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 04:08 PM
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excellent writeup keep it up

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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-16-2013, 02:17 PM
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Bump! Jim Moore, were your valves out with your riding habits?

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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 12:16 PM
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Great write up man. Thanks!!
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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 04:02 PM
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Any tips on installing valve cover???

Nice write up. I am in the middle of the job: measured the valves at 22k miles (apparently the 16k check was missed) and they are all in spec on the tight side, as expected.

How the f**k do you get the valve cover back on? Man, what a tight area. It came out OK, but getting it in with the gasket in place is a bitch. Any suggestions are appreciated.
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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-18-2015, 04:30 PM
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One more comment...

Read Jim Moore's tips above; they help a lot.

To get the valve cover back on without driving yourself mad, and possibly damaging the gasket, remove the radiator. It's really easy. Otherwise, the cover does not want to slide on. I found out the hard way.
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