Updated 07+ slipper installation - Rshackleford thread reconstructed. - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Updated 07+ slipper installation - Rshackleford thread reconstructed.

All post, photo's and text in this howto was originally written by Rshackleford. I'm merely recontructing the photo links from his original thread and cleaning it up a bit. I've recently acquired a slipper for my race bike, and dug this thread up so I thought I'd make it useful again for anyone else who needed it.


This is on my 07 but previous years should be similiar.

The first thing that you need to do is drain the oil. Drain it real well. Then put some cardboard or rags down because this thing drips like crazy. You then need to lift the tank so you can unplug the wire that is going to the crank positioning sensor. The plug is on the right side if the airbox one is black the other is grey.

There are other very good write ups on how to take off the clutch cover so lets start right after that.



if you are using this guide as a slipper install how to then this disc would be moved in the slipper, for a normal clutch install make sure that the large opening disc goes on first.

Next you need to unbolt the springs holding the pressure plate in. Make sure you unbolt these in a criss cross pattern so that the springs come unsprung evenly.




then pull off the center bearing and the pressure plate revealing the clutch plates and discs





be careful to pay attention the cluch discs, they pull off with the pressure plate because of all the oil on them. pay attention to the tabs on the discs. notice the very first one is put on in an alternate groove than the rest




pull all of the clutch plates and discs out. notice the very last disc has a larger hole in in to make room for the two judder springs


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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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make sure that you get the 2 judder springs out. they are the last thing that comes off at this point and they are thin and easy to miss.





notice that the first judder spring (farthest from engine) the first you get to is concave. make sure that you note the direction it faces so

you dont forget. the above pic comes from the service manual showing the two springs and their placement.



next you have to take off the center hub

I highly suggest getting the clutch holding tool from motion pro. i got it for 20 bucks from kneedraggers.


the center nut holding the hub on is 30mm (just like the triple clamp nut)

notice that the center stub is staked in.




use a very small flat blade screwdriver and drive it into the groove to straighten out the stake then install the clutch holder. its pretty

self explanatory but this pic shows you can brace it against the rearset for support.




then get yourself a long breaker bar and pull

its on their at 94 ft/lbs

once the center lock nut is off you will see the lock washer notice the word "OUT" thats pretty self explanatory during the reinstall





next is a blueish washer to come off



then just pull the center hub straight out

you will find a large flat washer behind the center hub against the clutch outer.





behind that large flat washer is the clutch outer





if anything is curious what is behind the clutch outer you have to pull the center and needle bearings out with a pic




and then the clutch outer pulls off





its not necessary for a slipper install but i was bored and curious

there are little tabs on the back of the clutch outer that hook up to the oil pump drive behind it. if you take this part off for whatever reason make sure that these make back up

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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the first thing you need to do is make some decisions.

is this a street or track bike.

there are different recommendations out there for how to set up the clutch pack. Although it isnt necessary some of these recommendations can save some

headache later



the first thing you need to do is look at this picture.





if you are like me you like to see the actual parts rather than a drawing on a piece of paper. so here is the clutch discs and plates in the way that

they originally came out.

To orient yourself, the left side of the picture is the deepest in the engine. Notice the two judder springs on the far left clutch disc. They are part

#6 and part #13.






honda uses three different clutch discs.

the first one is the one deepest in the engine(the far left in the above pic with the judder springs) it is item #9 with a honda part of 22202-MAE-000.


the second disc it item #8 in the pic with honda part #22201-MFJ-D00. There will be more of these all the rest.

the third disc is item #7 in the picture with a honda part # of 22201-MAE-000.



Fred at yoyodyne recommends for street bikes to keep item #9 along with the judder springs. Supposedly it is easier to find neutral with the judder

springs still in the clutch pack. If you choose to keep the judder springs clutch disc #9 and the judder springs need to be moved over one position to

the right in the stack like this picture below.


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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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lets look at all three clutch discs right beside of each other.




the disc on the left is item #7 in the above picture with honda part #22201-MAE-000.

the middle disc is that pesky disc #9 with the judder springs still inside for reference.

the disc on the right is item #8 with a honda part # of 22201-MFJ-D00.

the big problem with the judder springs is that they have been know to slip inside the pack and jam things up. that is the main reason why if retained they need to be moved to a different position. a lot of people recommend to get rid of clutch disc #9 and the judder springs entirely. this is the option that i am taking just to make sure they dont get in the way. keep in mind though, yoyodyne says that this can make it harder to find neutral.



If you decide to get rid of the judder springs and disc #9 you have to replace it with a different disc to keep the stack height the same. i have read that you should (once again back to the parts diagram) disc #7 honda part #22201-MAE-000. The reason is that disc 7 was made to rub against aluminum pressure plates. the other discs were made to rub against the steel clutch plates. for longevities sake, order a new clutch #7 and put it deepest in the engine. make sure you soak it completely in oil first. the clutch disc #7 is only like 11 bucks total.

again, you dont have to buy a new clutch disc and take out the judder springs but it eliminates the springs moving and jamming up the clutch.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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so finally, its here




the first thing you notice when you open the box is an install CD. nice




the unit is packaged very well, foam padding everywhere




be careful though, there are small parts that can fall loose during shipping.



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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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take the top off of unit and you will see more parts on the inside

the very top piece is a new center nut

(didnt need to buy that part after all i guess)




everything laid out of the center and taken apart.







thats it for now,i want to spend some time with the CD. also this is an 07 clutch. i have an 06 also so wherever there are changes i will post them up as well between

the two.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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one of the first things we need to do is get our base stack height.

once everything is installed and ready to go the clutch discs and plates should add 1mm of height to the unit. this slipper clutch is designed to work

with the oem clutch pack so if you change springs around etc make sure that you keep to that 1mm.



here is the easiest way to do it.


take all of the little parts out of the center and put the base, center piece and pressure plate together and use dial calipers through the pressure

plate to get the base height. write this number down somewhere. later one when you need to monitor your clutch wear you can just reference this number

and use the same method with the still installed clutch.





my total average height is 48mm

i recommend checking all 4 sides for an average just in case.

we next need to put the balls bearings in place.

completely disassemble the clutch. the ball bearings go here



then set the center back down on the base. keep in mind these fall out easily so dont drop one down into the engine.


you can feel how the slipper clutch works if you put pressure on the center piece and twist. the ball bearings allow the clutch to turn a little which

would lighten the pressure on the discs a little.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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just for comparison, here is the 06 slipper as well. i have both on my desk so i wanted to make sure and put the differences in this




notice that there is no new center nut, washers, on the inside.

also the center splined part does not come off of the base.

lastly, check the 5 towerlike pieces that the red caps and allen heads bolt into. the 07 are solid pieces. the 06 has springs around it.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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lets go back to were we left off of at uninstall.


make sure that the large washer behind the clutch center is still there


double check to make sure that all of your ball bearings are still in place and put the center piece on the base.




to make sure that you dont drop a ball bearing into the oil sump i stuffed paper towels in the way and wrapped the clutch outer in tape to make sure

that nothing dropped.





just be careful when installing and nothing will fall

on the 06 it isnt necessary because the base and center are one unit so the ball bearings wont fall out.



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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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take a look here. on the left is the washer that comes with the clutch. on the right is the oem washer that goes directly behind the center nut. it has

the word "out" on it.



for the 07 the oem washer is gone and replaced. for the 06 it is different. the instructions that come with the kit say to keep it. fred at yoyodyne

said that it can cause the center nut to not go on far enough to stake the center nut down. when we put the clutch on BRADRC51's 06 we left this washer

out.




here is the concave washer i was talking about installed. it goes on with the concave side in. or is it convex side out? either way. cup in.


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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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next comes the spider washer.

the 06 does not have one of these

for the 06 you would reuse the larger washer behind the curved one with the word "out" on it and then the center nut.




notice the orientation of the arms of the spider washer. there are indents on the clutch center that the arms go into.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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now you have to torque on the new center nut.

for the 06 use a new oem center nut. for this you will need to use a clutch tool again. the motion pro clutch holding tool has proven to be worth a lot

more than the 20 bucks i paid for it.

clamp the clutch center this time with the clutch holding tool braced against the bottom of the left rearset peg




the instructions say to torque it to 127NM. this is app 93 and a half ft/lbs. instructions also say to use blue loctite on the threads. considering

that you dont stake the new locknut down, this is a good idea.



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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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here is everything all together




i am holding here. i am opting to leave out the judder springs and disc #9 (remember these) and the new disc #7 is not in yet.

however for those of you that want to leave the oem judder springs in i went ahead and took of pics of what it would look like.


here is disc 8 (the one that there are so many of) and disc 9

as you can see the hole in disc 9 is a lot larger than the hole in disc 8

#8 is on the bottom





you can see that once the judder springs are installed the gap is filled in




this is why if you want to keep disc 9 you have to leave the judder springs in

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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first thing put a disc 8 in



then put in a steel plate



then put in disc 9



notice the gap under disc 9. you can still see the steel plate behind it.

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next would come those judder springs

first is the flat one

then the curved one.

the concave side goes facing out



once again, notice how the judder springs fills in the gap.

here is a pic of a cross section of how the judder springs go in.




after the judder springs put on another steel plate


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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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so i got a call from the dealer today and my extra clutch disc is in




very first thing is to soak it in engine oil. i left mine soaking for about an hour. i dont know how long it should be soaked for but i figured that you

cant soak it too long. plus the family guy star wars is on dvd and i got caught up watching and forgot about the disc.


so lets back up a bit to the baseline stack height. i am going to recommend using this hole to take the measurements.




the original holes that i used are blocked by the steel plates once installed. using the above hole i got a depth of 33.7mm


now starting installing the discs and plates.

new disc 7 first



steel plate



disc 8




then repeat until the very last disc (should be the other #7 if you are doing this correctly)


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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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make sure that you stagger the tabs on the last disc 7



then put your new pressure plate on



springs in


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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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put the caps on the springs




using the provided allen head bolts (make sure you coat the threads with anti seize) tighten them to finger tight in a star pattern

then go back with a torque wrench and tighten to 5 ft/lbs




now using the correct holes in the pressure plate remeasure.<br>

height now is 35mm
1.03mm


you are shooting for 1.0mm so i can live with that extra .03mm

if it were .4-1.0mm you can put a shim in.

less than .4 and you need a complete new clutch pack.

well thats it. put your cover back on and go for a ride

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-18-2010, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, Thread reconstructed. I'll be doing the same install here in a couple of weeks with a couple of variations. I may take some video of the install as well. Will post up more helpful information if I come across any.

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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to cozye For This Useful Post:
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014, 03:32 AM
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An interesting & informative post, good stuff. We've been using barnett clutch packs on our 96 & 2001 engines, in our F2 sidecars, so I'm looking at whats been used in 2010/2011 engines, standard, lockup & slipper combo's. I've been on tenkate website, & I'm still looking at whats on offer. I'll keep brousing.
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014, 11:29 PM
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Ok so weird issue i installed everything as mentioned and my clutch wont engage lever is loose as heck. Tried to adjust it but went all out and still nothing. Where did i go wrong?? I used the oem plates and kept all the plates

never mind found my own problem put the pin after the pressure plate. thats what happen when you leave things apart for too long..

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