How to: Keyless Ignition - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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How to: Keyless Ignition

This will show you how to turn on your bike without a key (hotwire) by simply turn on the kill switch. Great for TRACK bikes, not so much street bikes. Heres how I rigged mine. Use caution doing this if you park outside or in public places. Dont steal bikes.

First, take off the right side fairings to get to the ignition plugs. (brown and grey connectors)




From the grey plug, take the white w/ black strip wire and connect it to the SOLID red wire from the brown plug.

From the grey plug, take the SOLID black wire and connect it to the red w/ black stripe wire from the brown plug.



I suggest soldering to make sure there is ZERO play in the connection of wires. I had a tiny bit of play in my wires and it would shut off the bike instantly. Once you do this, test it out before moving by wiggling the wires a bit

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Last edited by AUaviator; 02-25-2013 at 08:00 AM.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 07:21 PM
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 12:30 AM
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How to: Keyless Ignition

Are there any cons to this mod besides being easy to steal?
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 07:44 PM
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How to: Keyless Ignition

Wiring in 07+ the same as 05/06? This was something ive thought of doing to my track bike, but just haven't yet.


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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gashuffer View Post
Wiring in 07+ the same as 05/06? This was something ive thought of doing to my track bike, but just haven't yet.


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That I am not sure of. I dont have an 05/06 in my riding group to compare.


I dont see any cons to this mod (other than the whole easier to steal thing)

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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 10:20 PM
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Re: How to: Keyless Ignition

Quote:
Originally Posted by AUaviator View Post
That I am not sure of. I dont have an 05/06 in my riding group to compare.


I dont see any cons to this mod (other than the whole easier to steal thing)
Roger. I don't think my RR book has an 07+ wire plan, but ill look when I get home.

I def wouldn't do this to my street bike. Carrying that huge, heavy, bulky key isn't hard....

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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I would never do this to my street bike either. This is my track bike, Dude didnt know where he left the key so I had to hotwire it and pick the lock on the gas tank. I still need to rig up a teather if I were to go down.

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 12:25 AM
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How to: Keyless Ignition

Tether? For ur ignition? Like a treadmill?


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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 12:30 AM
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How to: Keyless Ignition

Also, by my wiring diagram, the color wires are the same, but the connector colors aren't. We don't have a brown one. Your grey one is black and your brown is grey. According to my diagram at least. I'll verify on my bike later....when I go fiddle again.Click image for larger version

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking jet ski but treadmill works too I guess.

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 12:49 AM
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How to: Keyless Ignition

Did you bypass the bas too then?


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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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I haven't done anything apart from what is in this write up. Thats just something Im doing in the future.

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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 01:37 AM
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Re: How to: Keyless Ignition

This bikes easy enough to steal. Why do this? I was fixing my ignition replacing it with an OEM (had a chinese knockoff in it) and i twisted the wires and drove off lol.

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 06:36 AM
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How to: Keyless Ignition

Quote:
Originally Posted by NaturalPhenomenon View Post
This bikes easy enough to steal. Why do this? I was fixing my ignition replacing it with an OEM (had a chinese knockoff in it) and i twisted the wires and drove off lol.

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It's not for street bikes, (unless you like having your bike stolen) its for track bikes. Means you don't need to worry about carrying or losing keys on the way. Switch and go!


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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 07:18 AM
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is this a really cheap alternative to the expensive problem of replacing a lost key?

i would not do this, as my insurance would freak , but im sure its beneficial to the track bike guys



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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 09:25 AM
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Re: How to: Keyless Ignition

This is great idea, id change title to "track bike keyless so people stop saying why it will get jacked lol

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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-10-2013, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Pictures went dead heres the pics since it wont let me edit:




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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 03:30 PM
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This is the easiest "keyless" mod I've seen. Can you then completely remove the ignition from the triple clamp once you do this? I would love to also save the 1.5 lbs off my bike.

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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 09:34 AM
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Thx

Great write up, thanks!
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 09:51 AM
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This is a terrible idea


Your killswitch it absolutely not rated to carry the current required to run the bike. Look at the difference in wire gauge!


Every time you turn your bike on with the killswitch connected this way you will burn the contacts slightly. Eventually it will fail and when it does youre not left with a simple road side solution


It's best to take the two ignition wires and run them to a higher current rated toggle switch and locate that switch somewhere else.

It's not worth ruining a track day just so you can have a killswitch to run your bike


I should also add that the wire that you are tapping the ignition wire into feeds the ignition coils and BAS. By putting a constant 12v on it means you are continuously powering these devices. This should not be the case.
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:04 AM
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Correct

While you may be correct in the wire gauge ratings, I've not had any type of failure in this setup for the past 4 years at the track, on both track bikes.
Constant on/off cycles all day long included. Hot, humid, damp, etc.
Running a separate toggle switch may be the preferred way to go but to predict failure on this method isn't warranted in my opinion.
To each their own. If mine ever fails, I'll post up!
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:05 AM
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayski View Post
While you may be correct in the wire gauge ratings, I've not had any type of failure in this setup for the past 4 years at the track, on both track bikes.
Constant on/off cycles all day long included. Hot, humid, damp, etc.
Running a separate toggle switch may be the preferred way to go but to predict failure on this method isn't warranted in my opinion.
To each their own. If mine ever fails, I'll post up!


"mine has been fine" isn't a great way to condone making electrical no-nos


you're putting 12v constant that's fed from the main 30a fuse, and feeding the circuit supplying your IGNITION COILS (normally a 10 amp cct) constantly.

if you were to leave the fuse that's normally for the ignition (B in the fuse box), this means that you are backfeeding the bike (ie you have made the fusebox live all the time, the ignition switch now no longer switches power off to all the ccts in the fusebox, ie if you had headlights still they would be on all the time.

i shouldn't have to explain why this isn't good.


i'll do a bit of testing when i get home.


quick question,

does your fuel pump prime when you flick on your kill switch when wired in this configuration?

Last edited by wibbly; 07-31-2015 at 10:23 AM.
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:30 AM
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Agreed

You're the electrical expert here, I'm not denying that at all. I'm saying that it has worked flawlessly and not once has this setup caused my machines any charging issues, switch failures, coil issues, etc. on any of my bikes.
I'm not sure why you're quoting something I didn't say as well?
You don't have to explain why it isn't good, but you're going anyways by the sounds of it. Post up the schematics if you wish, I'd be interested to see how it may impact the rest of the circuit.
Maybe over the winter I'll wire in a toggle for the bikes, might be useful if I do leave the bikes at the track overnight. I'll tuck it under the side of the bike where it can't be noticed or harmed if it hits the ground.
I'd actually like to try a pushbutton style switch, maybe even with some perimeter sensor so if I have an off, the bike immediately shuts off instead of the tip sensor enabling which I believe lets it run for another 5 seconds or so.
Thanks for your willingness to dig more into this thing!
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:32 AM
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Do me a favor

With your killswitch in the killed position


Go.to your bike. Unhook the battery, then reconnect it


Does your pump prime?
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:48 AM
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Yes when I flip the switch to on, the pump primes.
I'll disconnect the battery now and re connect. I'm almost positive the only thing I see/hear happen when this event occurs is the cluster needle goes through it's cycle and there is no tank priming. I've had the battery in and out enough over the winter/summer breaks that I don't recall the pump priming up until the kill switch is flipped on.
Back in a few, I'm working remotely today so I just need a break to go remove the seat.
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 10:53 AM
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Thinking about this further

If you leave that 10amp fuse in the fuse box, this 'mod' is the EXACT SAME THING as just jumpering out your ignition or leaving the key on but hitting the kill switch.

With that 10 amp fuse installed you don't even need the red/black wire at all. It's doing nothing.


With the 10 amp fuse pulled, you still have parts of the bike live. Which shouldn't be
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 11:23 AM
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fuses

I did pull some, I recall it was the headlight fuse and maybe another.
I'll have to take a look at that. I just bolted the seat back on.
And no priming of fuel pump occurred when I had the kill switch in the off position upon reconnecting the battery.

I would have expected if everything was powered up, the cluster would stay lit etc.
And my battery would drain. But that hasn't happened for durations when I have left the battery in the bike connected between weeks at a time. It's been in for a week, I'll go read it when I remove the seat.... again.

Last edited by jayski; 07-31-2015 at 11:39 AM.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 11:36 AM
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Here's the preferred way of how to do this.

https://www.600rr.net/vb/104-07-013-r...-ignition.html

However I've seen enough bikes flipped over on the track that I didn't want another set of wires being ripped off the bike, say if the top triple skipped across the ground. Which is why I went keyless to begin with. I saw too many messed up ignition switches.
Secretly I also didn't want to ruin a morning if I forgot my key at home lol.
2 bikes last weekend had the key mangled inside the ignition switch and one bike actually wouldn't turn off at all when I got to it in the recovery truck.
We trailered that bike into the paddock and they actually had to remove the seat and disconnect the battery to kill the current.
The cluster appears to have survived with some minor scuff damage.
I may alter one of mine and stick a small 12v switch in somewhere accessible, but not visible/damage prone.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 02:30 PM
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I definitely prefer my ignition and fuel cut switches to be distinct. Had a friend who ran it to his kill switch like this, and when he was strapping the bike to the trailer, accidentally hit it and ended up with a dead battery when we got to the track, lawl.

Also I got to use a cool SPST switch with cover, so I feel like I'm starting a rocket when I turn my bike on.
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