How To: The Simplest 07-12 CCT Install Method Ever -
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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How To: The Simplest 07-12 CCT Install Method Ever

I recently installed a new CCT on my 2008 600RR.

After searching heavily through this forum, the following method is truly the EASIEST way to replace the CCT.

No need to prop up the gas tank, remove coolant tubes, relocate harnesses... Just need to remove your fairings.

OEM Honda parts you need:
X1 14520-MEE-013 / LIFTER ASSY., TENSIONER / (this is the CCT assembly)
X1 14523-MCW-003 / GASKET, TENSIONER HOLE / (CCT to engine cylinder head metal gasket)
X1 90442-397-000 / WASHER, SEALING (6 MM) / (this is an aluminum crush washer between the top bolt and the body of the CCT)

Tools you will need:
- metric hex keys (to remove the fairings)
- 8 mm closed end wrench (I used my "Craftsman metric ignition wrenches" You can also cut down a regular 8 mm closed wrench
- pry bar
- 17 mm shallow 6 pt socket
- 14 mm deep socket
- 3/8 or 1/2" ratchet

I did not take pictures unfortunately, but the steps are so easy that it's almost not needed.

1) Remove right side fairing and upper cowl.

2) Remove the small circular cover on the right side of the engine with the 17 mm socket so that you can turn the crank shaft. Follow the procedure in the service manual to set the crank in the right position using the 14 mm deep socket. NOTE: this is *not* mentioned in the service manual regarding removal of the CCT. This may be unnecessary, but I did it anyways.

3) I disconnected the clutch cable from the lever on the transmission and the small steel tab that holds the clutch cable in place since I was working on something else, but this can be optional.

Now you should be able able to see the CCT assy and two bolts. The upper bolt is the one that's tricky to get to since the frame is in the way.

3) Using an 8 mm wrench, loosen and remove the bolt and sealing washer on the tip of the CCT assy.

4) using your stubby 8 mm closed end wrench (note that I used the ignition wrenches found in the link I provided. You can also cut a cheap 8mm wrench in half), slip the closed end of the wrench over the hard to access upper bolt, with the open end pointing towards the left side of the bike. You will need to finess the wrench in this tight area, but once it's on, move to the next step.

5) Get your pry bar out. This is a little hard to explain, but you need to rest the tip of the pry bar on top of the end of the 8 mm wrench you placed on the bolt, while resting the rest of the pry bar against the bottom side of the CCT. The purpose of doing this is to get some leverage on the 8 mm wrench since you can't loosen it by hand due to zero clearance in there. Using the CCT as a fulcrum, pulling up on the handle of the pry bar will apply a downward force on the end of the 8 mm wrench, turning it CCW and thus loosening it.

6) Once you feel it break loose, reposition the 8 mm wrench so that the end does not bottom out on the CCT to continue loosening it. After you loosen the bolt by about 45 degrees or so, you can go in and unthread it with your finger tips easily.

7) Completely remove the hard to reach bolt, then easily remove the easy to reach bolt closest to you with the closed end of an 8 mm wrench. The reason for this is that since the hard to reach bolt is removed, and the fact that there is still spring tension in the CCT, as you remove the remaining bolt, the CCT assy will begin to deflect toward the bolt that is remaining. This will drop clearance between the bolt head and CCT assy and make it tough to get the closed end of the wrench on the bolt head.

8) Now that the CCT is completely removed, take note that the metal gasket should be installed in the correct orientation. Both sides of the gasket are not the same. Install gasket according to factory installation. You can see the difference when you carefully look at the gasket. It's basically a stamped metal part with a ridge and valley running around the perimeter of the large hole. Make sure the ridge of the old gasket is on the same side as the ridge of the new; same goes for the valley.

9) With the metal gasket installed, install the two M8 bolts that mount to the head. Once both bolts are finger tight, go ahead and fully tighten them. For the hard to reach bolt, you can use the same pry bar technique to tighten it. Place the closed end of the 8 mm wrench on the bolt head, then using a rag on the engine, pry upwards against the end of the wrench and engine to snug the bolt up a bit. BE CAREFUL since you'll have a ton of leverage.

10) The CCT comes installed with a small metal tab so that the spring is pre-loaded. Once you're sure the two M8 mounting bolts are tight, use a pick to remove the metal tab. Once you pull it out, you'll hear a light *clack*, which is the spring loaded mechanism tensioning the chain. Be careful not to pull too hard otherwise you'll scratch your frame.

11) Install the new crush washer and M8 bolt you previously removed at the tip of the CCT.

12) Double check your work, then reinstall your clutch cable and fairings.

You're done! No need to lift the gas tank or relocate the harness/aluminum coolant tube.

Once you have your fairing off, you can do this in under 20 minutes with no bloody knuckles.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 01:14 AM
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 01:30 AM
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no write-up should be w/out pics

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 05:40 AM
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Um, pics????????

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-20-2014, 07:24 AM
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So basically your saying to time the engine up (crank & cams) then remove & replace CCT
Recheck timing after replacement and run the engine?
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 02:53 PM
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When I first bought this bike I remember thinking the CCTL (L = "Lifter") looks way easier to access than on the F4i. The F4i had a tiny hole in the frame where you could maybe pass through a socket extension with u-joint to get at the bolts.
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