Oil Question - 600RR.net
General Discussion General Honda CBR600RR Motorcycle Talk - please place mods, tech tips and off topic threads in the correct forums.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the fluid levels in my bike today as my dad and I finished up the cluster install and sprockets/chain, we were both curious about clutch lubrication. We checked the window for the oil level and I know the clutch case is located on that same side.

Does this use the regular oil from the motor to keep it lubed or is there a spot to put fluid specifically for the clutch?

Also, my bike had a rear resi-delete. Can someone tell me more about that?

Thanks in advance and I apologize for the “noob” question.

"The brave don't live forever, but the cautious don't live at all."

2008 Honda CBR600RR (Artemis)


Mods

- Arrow Racing Headers
- Yoshimura RS-5 Exhaust
- Power Commander
- BMC Air Filter
- CF Rear Fender
- Vortex Rear Sets
- Woodcraft Stator and Clutch Covers
- Shorty Levers (White/Red)
- Puig Windscreen
- 520 Conversion (Vortex 15/44 and DID chain)
- Marchesini Wheels
- Pro Gel Grips (Red/Black)
- LighTech Bar Ends (Red/Black)
- Custom Cluster (S/O to tripage)

Last edited by ApolloDeuce; 11-24-2017 at 01:52 AM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 03:25 AM
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You know where you add engine oil? Shine a flashlight in there and you will see your clutch.

Your engine and transmission share the same oil. Think wisely when choosing an oil and how long to run it.

A rear brake reservoir delete simply reduces the stock reservoir with some tube. Obviously the resi capacity is reduced when doing this, but it does not affect rear brake performance.



Attached is my take on the mod. As you can see I just used the stock tube that goes to the reservoir and plugged it with a rubber cork. For me it was done purely for the weight savings.
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2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets

Last edited by Honda-Power; 11-24-2017 at 03:27 AM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda-Power View Post
You know where you add engine oil? Shine a flashlight in there and you will see your clutch.

Your engine and transmission share the same oil. Think wisely when choosing an oil and how long to run it.

A rear brake reservoir delete simply reduces the stock reservoir with some tube. Obviously the resi capacity is reduced when doing this, but it does not affect rear brake performance.



Attached is my take on the mod. As you can see I just used the stock tube that goes to the reservoir and plugged it with a rubber cork. For me it was done purely for the weight savings.
Honda-Power; I would recommend you to switch to a clear tube (HRC tube or Tygon 2375 tubing) so that you are able to have control over the fluid level and condition. These are found cheap on eBay. Also note that the HRC tube is known for "sweating" so I would highly recommend the Tygon 2375 tubing (8mm ID).

Example:
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiltmeister View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda-Power View Post
You know where you add engine oil? Shine a flashlight in there and you will see your clutch.

Your engine and transmission share the same oil. Think wisely when choosing an oil and how long to run it.

A rear brake reservoir delete simply reduces the stock reservoir with some tube. Obviously the resi capacity is reduced when doing this, but it does not affect rear brake performance.



Attached is my take on the mod. As you can see I just used the stock tube that goes to the reservoir and plugged it with a rubber cork. For me it was done purely for the weight savings.
Honda-Power; I would recommend you to switch to a clear tube (HRC tube or Tygon 2375 tubing) so that you are able to have control over the fluid level and condition. These are found cheap on eBay. Also note that the HRC tube is known for "sweating" so I would highly recommend the Tygon 2375 tubing (8mm ID).

Example:
Thank you for the info! My bike has a clear tube with a cap. I’ll have to check if it’s Tygon or not.

"The brave don't live forever, but the cautious don't live at all."

2008 Honda CBR600RR (Artemis)


Mods

- Arrow Racing Headers
- Yoshimura RS-5 Exhaust
- Power Commander
- BMC Air Filter
- CF Rear Fender
- Vortex Rear Sets
- Woodcraft Stator and Clutch Covers
- Shorty Levers (White/Red)
- Puig Windscreen
- 520 Conversion (Vortex 15/44 and DID chain)
- Marchesini Wheels
- Pro Gel Grips (Red/Black)
- LighTech Bar Ends (Red/Black)
- Custom Cluster (S/O to tripage)
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda-Power View Post
You know where you add engine oil? Shine a flashlight in there and you will see your clutch.

Your engine and transmission share the same oil. Think wisely when choosing an oil and how long to run it.

A rear brake reservoir delete simply reduces the stock reservoir with some tube. Obviously the resi capacity is reduced when doing this, but it does not affect rear brake performance.



Attached is my take on the mod. As you can see I just used the stock tube that goes to the reservoir and plugged it with a rubber cork. For me it was done purely for the weight savings.
Thanks for the info!

"The brave don't live forever, but the cautious don't live at all."

2008 Honda CBR600RR (Artemis)


Mods

- Arrow Racing Headers
- Yoshimura RS-5 Exhaust
- Power Commander
- BMC Air Filter
- CF Rear Fender
- Vortex Rear Sets
- Woodcraft Stator and Clutch Covers
- Shorty Levers (White/Red)
- Puig Windscreen
- 520 Conversion (Vortex 15/44 and DID chain)
- Marchesini Wheels
- Pro Gel Grips (Red/Black)
- LighTech Bar Ends (Red/Black)
- Custom Cluster (S/O to tripage)
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 02:25 PM
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Tiltmeister thanks for the specs on the tube.

For now though I will stick with my setup. I'm not bothered by not being able to see the level. Besides, on the stock setup (for my 03) you could not see the level either without taking off the rear fairing. It's not like it ever needs a top-off unless you have a leak in the system. And of course I can pop off the cork and check the level/quality if I am so inclined.

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda-Power View Post
it was done purely for the weight savings.
And exactly how much weight was saved with this mod? Like a shoe lace worth of weight? Can't even be a full DC shoe's worth of weight. I don't see the point?

'06 F4i- Yoshimura RS-3C, Racetech springs and valves, Ohlin's rear shock, steel brake lines, 520 conversion. 87k miles and counting.....
'08 600RR- Stripped trackbike. CRG shorty brake lever, goodridge front brake lines
'15 1000RR- weekend toy
------Disclaimer: I can't spell------
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 07:06 PM
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And exactly how much weight was saved with this mod? Like a shoe lace worth of weight? Can't even be a full DC shoe's worth of weight. I don't see the point?
Can't tell you an exact amount. Much more than a shoe lace though. The point is I enjoy tinkering with my bike and making it lighter/simpler.

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-24-2017, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bored&stroked View Post
And exactly how much weight was saved with this mod? Like a shoe lace worth of weight? Can't even be a full DC shoe's worth of weight. I don't see the point?
Yeah, lol. I'm all for the mod as a simplicity thing because the stock setup has too much going on, but weight savings? Just fart before you get on the bike. I'm just teasing Honda Power, I think monkeying with motorcycle for any reason is cool.
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