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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Oil consumption

Hi guys
Being my first sports bike and previous owner told me itís always been run on castrol power 1 racing 10/40,can you tell me if itís normal for these engines to consume a little oil,bike has 23k miles and no smoke or leaks
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 01:47 PM
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Cant really give you specifics on that brand oil but there are only so many ways you can lose oil...either leaking out somewhere, ending up in your coolant, or blowing past a piston ring and getting burnt up. No leaks and clean coolant means it's coming out the ass end.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 01:56 PM
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Some oil consumption is normal for any piston engine. Some engines use less, some use more. I've found my 600RR to use a pretty small amount of oil (haven't measured precisely but I think less than a quart) throughout my 2500-3000 mile oil change interval.

How much oil does your bike use per 1k miles?

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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 02:12 PM
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Lets put it this way, you shouldn't have to add any oil in between oil changes. If you do, something is up. What brand of oil used doesn't matter at all.

'06 F4i- Yoshimura RS-3C, Racetech springs and valves, Ohlin's rear shock, steel brake lines, 520 conversion. 87k miles and counting.....
'08 600RR- Stripped trackbike. CRG shorty brake lever, goodridge front brake lines
'15 1000RR- weekend toy
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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To be honest Iím unsure the exact oil level when I bought the bike last month. I do get a little variation due to trying to hold bike straight to check,but the current level is just below the minimum in the sight glass,might be worth me changing oil and at least I know where the level is!!
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bored&stroked View Post
Lets put it this way, you shouldn't have to add any oil in between oil changes. If you do, something is up. What brand of oil used doesn't matter at all.
I don't agree with this at all. Think about if you ran the manufacturer recommended 8k miles between changes, there is no way you could do that without topping off here and there. While I could probably go 3k miles without topping off and not fall below the add line, I instead add a little oil here and there to keep it near the top mark. Nothing is up with my bike.

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by cips007 View Post
To be honest Iím unsure the exact oil level when I bought the bike last month. I do get a little variation due to trying to hold bike straight to check,but the current level is just below the minimum in the sight glass,might be worth me changing oil and at least I know where the level is!!
First thing I do anytime I buy a used motorcycle is change the oil. Get that done, and go from there.

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Iíll get it changed asap,the previous owner had the bike 7 yearsand said the oil was changed yearly approx every 1,000 miles,if heís had his level wrong,would this have caused my damage due to the oil continually being on minimum?
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 03:52 PM
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Iíll get it changed asap,the previous owner had the bike 7 yearsand said the oil was changed yearly approx every 1,000 miles,if heís had his level wrong,would this have caused my damage due to the oil continually being on minimum?
I wouldn't stress about it. If the bike runs good, has no strange noises etc. you are good to go. You would have to be really low to actually run into issues.

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thank you,really appreciate your help/info,is there a tip or trick to accurately check the oil level on your own?
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 04:16 PM
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You want to be consistent, as in check in the same spot and hold it as level as possible every time. I like to hold it with one hand on the triple tree, put my foot behind the front tire, and look at the sight glass as dead on as possible, while doing my best to balance the bike straight up.

Mostly though I check it on my pitbull rear stand (spooled). On the stand, the bike is in the exact same position, perfectly level, every time.

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- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 06:47 PM
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I don't agree with this at all. Think about if you ran the manufacturer recommended 8k miles between changes, there is no way you could do that without topping off here and there. While I could probably go 3k miles without topping off and not fall below the add line, I instead add a little oil here and there to keep it near the top mark. Nothing is up with my bike.
If your going 8k between oil changes then yes some adding will most likely be needed. You should NOT be going 8k between changes though. Manufacturer recommendations are based on multiple factors with maximum engine life only being one factor in the equation. It's been causing a lot of problems in BMW's and Mercedes-Benz for a while now for instance. Balance shafts and top ends all gummed up to crap, entire engine break downs to clean them out, all no good.

'06 F4i- Yoshimura RS-3C, Racetech springs and valves, Ohlin's rear shock, steel brake lines, 520 conversion. 87k miles and counting.....
'08 600RR- Stripped trackbike. CRG shorty brake lever, goodridge front brake lines
'15 1000RR- weekend toy
------Disclaimer: I can't spell------
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 06:48 PM
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41,000 miles on my engine, it maintains the level throughout the change interval of 3,000 miles.

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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Right guys,after a nice ride out today Iíve noticed my clutch slips slightly very high up the rev range,Iím buying some oil tomorrow for my oil change,but is it a fully or semi oil and have you guys any recommendations please
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 12:51 AM
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Full, semi, or conventional are all fine (at least for my 03, I don't know what year your bike is or if the oem spec has changed).

My oil of choice is Shell Rotella T4 (previously known as T3 triple protection) , which is a robust 15-40 weight conventional oil. It can be had for under $15 a gallon at Wal-Mart all day long.

10/10 would recommend

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets

Last edited by Honda-Power; 01-14-2018 at 12:56 AM.
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 04:29 AM Thread Starter
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I have a dilemma now...Iíve been reading if a clutch slips on high revs then the plates need replacing as it will only get worse!!
Do I have to do clutch before renewing my oil on my Cbr600rr 03
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 04:38 AM
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I have a dilemma now...Iíve been reading if a clutch slips on high revs then the plates need replacing as it will only get worse!!
Do I have to do clutch before renewing my oil on my Cbr600rr 03
Well yeah once a clutch starts slipping it will only get worse. It's possible new oil at the correct level will help tho. And if it doesn't, you can always drain the oil into a clean container and reuse it.

At 23k miles though the clutch should be good. I would try new oil and go from there.

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 04:48 AM Thread Starter
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Itís had castrol power 1 racing oil 10/40 for last few years and does currently look a little dirty,so Iím possibly going to try a different oil
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-14-2018, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cips007 View Post
To be honest Iím unsure the exact oil level when I bought the bike last month. I do get a little variation due to trying to hold bike straight to check,but the current level is just below the minimum in the sight glass,might be worth me changing oil and at least I know where the level is!!
Correct! Go ahead and change it. There is no magic oil, so be realistic and get it done. If you can't decide which oil go to the moto shop (if you have any nearby, we have none around here) and get some. As long as it meets specs and isn't a bottom shelf brand you're good.

Like you said, you will then know you have it taken care of, and can move forward. Then you will have some hard data about possible oil consumption, and put the speculation to rest.

Coolant and brake fluid should be taken care of immediately.
Chain should always get some TLC also. Fork oil I would definitely be checking that ASAP.

Best wishes and safe travels.

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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Well Iíve gone with the motul 5100,no more clutch slip either ?
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 01:41 PM
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Well Iíve gone with the motul 5100,no more clutch slip either ?
Your clutch is better now? That's good news. Was the old oil looking pretty manky when you drained it?

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Yes,it needed doing,took me ages to work out how the lower fairing comes off,but got there in the end. Iíve run the bike all the way up the rev range and no clutch slip at all,gear changing seems smoother to be honest also
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-24-2018, 10:27 PM
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Yes,it needed doing,took me ages to work out how the lower fairing comes off,but got there in the end. Iíve run the bike all the way up the rev range and no clutch slip at all,gear changing seems smoother to be honest also
Still not sure what year your bike is, but for my 03, you can change the oil without removing a single fairing. Saves a lot of time

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- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 03:04 AM Thread Starter
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Ah mine is an 03 too,so no need to remove anything then?
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 08:32 AM
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Ah mine is an 03 too,so no need to remove anything then?
Did you have to bring the oil filter out by the coolant reservoir? On my 2005 that's the only pathway I believe. I struggled for quite an embarrassing amount of time attempting to remove the filter with the fairings in place. It was difficult accessing the coolant tank bolt. I eventually got the tank loose and extracted the filter, but when I reattached the coolant tank, I used an extra fairing screw in place of the original bolt, and can now remove the tank with a long arm hex wrench, without displacing any bodywork. YMMV

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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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No I managed to use a filter ratchet/socket and remove it between the header pipes,but tight,but managed it. I donít have a torque wrench so just hoping Iíve tightened the new filter enough,should be ok as itís not leaking
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 01:08 PM
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No I managed to use a filter ratchet/socket and remove it between the header pipes,but tight,but managed it. I donít have a torque wrench so just hoping Iíve tightened the new filter enough,should be ok as itís not leaking
OK, on my 2005 it won't quite fit between the headers. Glad you got it taken care of.

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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 01:28 PM
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Ah mine is an 03 too,so no need to remove anything then?
No need to remove anything. The only somewhat tricky part is getting the oil filter on and off, but it's not that bad really. For the filter, I reach my hand through the fairing cutout by the coolant res. (I don't remove the res.) and bust it loose. Back it out a couple turns and let the oil drip into your oil can, then remove it completely, by dropping it down and through your headers. Installation is reverse. Only do your filter hand tight. That way you can get it off with your hands too! Oh, and I've never had an oil filter leak on a car or motorcycle by going hand tight.

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- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-25-2018, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Ah Iíve only done it slight more than hand tight,Iíll give it a go next time without removing the fairing,;-)
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-30-2018, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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After doing a few miles now on the motul 5100,my gear changes are so smooth,obviously still get the initial 1st gear clunk from neutral,but canít believe how much of a change my oil change has made,definitely a thumbs up for motul 5100!!
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