Need advice on ExternPro motor, HRC ECU and Kit - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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Need advice on ExternPro motor, HRC ECU and Kit

Hey everyone! Happy to join this forum!!!

I have a few question and I'm 100% ignorant on this, so my apologies in advance.

I have a 2016 Kalex bike, and it came with an ExternPro motor which has the small HRC ecu and harness and the FCC slipper clutch, and I'm assuming all the HRC cyl head cams, springs etc...

This motor already had alot of miles on it, so I assumed it would blow - and it did last weekend for me at the track.


1) A few weeks ago my mechanic installed bazzaz TC and fuel mapper on it upon my request. All plugged in-line with the injectors and coils. But just checking (after the fact) the bazzaz doesn't conflict with the HRC ECU right?

2) After installing the bazzaz, my mechanic dynoed the bike. He said my tach on the bike (2D dash) did not correspond with the RPM the dyno was detecting. Basically, when the dash would read 15,000RPM and the shift lights would come on, the dyno read only 12,500rpm

3) at the track I used the information about the dash tach being "off" so I kept accelerating in 4th gear past the shift lights, WAY past the shift lights till I thought I heard the rev limiter. On the 2D dash, I think it was about 17,000RPM. 3 laps later, I popped the motor. Can anyone guess to the discrepancy between dash tach and dyno tach?

4) Crankshaft broke - is that common?

5) Yesterday mechanic install OEM bone stock 2013 cbr600rr motor with 1000 miles. Only switched the clutch to the FCC one from the original motor. Upon my request, I don't need to "build up" this motor because I don't need the 10 extra HP and would rather have a more reliable engine. My question, the HRC ecu is made to work with the HRC cams which have different timing right? So will my new OEM motor not run right with the HRC ecu? Am I forced to use the HRC cams for the timing to be correct?

6) I have the dongle and software for the HRC ecu but haven't plugged it in ever. Is that where I can change QS sensitivity?

I know it's alot of question, and probably dumb questions, but I'm not a mechanic so I'm doing the best I can :)

Thanks alot of any input that can point me in a better direction.
Noam
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 05:54 PM
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I actually have very little practical knowledge of this, but I'll try to offer some hypothesis on some points.

I believe the Dynojet and Bazzaz products work by feeding the real ECU signals it wants to keep everything working okay. This would be bad if the ECU was not what the Bazzaz was expecting; however, I believe I have read that the HRC ecu for the 600RR motor is basically the stock ECU but with a whole bunch more variables exposed and all the limits removed, which should mean that at a base level, the HRC and stock ECUs are no different in how they are treating the engine. I do not know this factually, this is just something I've picked up from being on this site.

So, I don't think you need the HRC power up kit to use the HRC ECU, though without it there is not much in the HRC ECU that is beneficial.

The rest I don't know.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-15-2018, 03:43 PM
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You revved past redline, and 3 laps latter the engine blew up including a broken crankshaft[which is extremely rare]. Coincidence? I think not.

'06 F4i- Yoshimura RS-3C, Racetech springs and valves, Ohlin's rear shock, steel brake lines, 520 conversion. 87k miles and counting.....
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-15-2018, 07:16 PM
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1. The bazzaz won't conflict with the HRC ecu as far as I know, however, the HRC ECU is fully adjustable as far as fuel mapping and ignition timing etc. Unless you really want TC (which is kind of pointless on a 600 IMHO) you could ditch the bazazz.

2. Strange that the tach is not agreeing with the dyno. Hard to say which is right and which is wrong.

3. I don't have a clue. But, if you hit the rev limiter you would have felt it. Also, who knows at what rpm it's set at...

4. No

5. The HRC ECU is made to work with the "power-up" kit, however, as said previously, the HRC ECU is fully tuneable, so you should be able to make it work just fine with a stock motor.

6. I believe that is a yes

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-16-2018, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noam Ben-Hamou View Post
Hey everyone! Happy to join this forum!!!

I have a few question and I'm 100% ignorant on this, so my apologies in advance.

I have a 2016 Kalex bike, and it came with an ExternPro motor which has the small HRC ecu and harness and the FCC slipper clutch, and I'm assuming all the HRC cyl head cams, springs etc...

This motor already had alot of miles on it, so I assumed it would blow - and it did last weekend for me at the track.


1) A few weeks ago my mechanic installed bazzaz TC and fuel mapper on it upon my request. All plugged in-line with the injectors and coils. But just checking (after the fact) the bazzaz doesn't conflict with the HRC ECU right?

It does not. It's a piggy back system which is the way all true tunes should be done.

2) After installing the bazzaz, my mechanic dynoed the bike. He said my tach on the bike (2D dash) did not correspond with the RPM the dyno was detecting. Basically, when the dash would read 15,000RPM and the shift lights would come on, the dyno read only 12,500rpm

this is an interesting on. i am not sure.

3) at the track I used the information about the dash tach being "off" so I kept accelerating in 4th gear past the shift lights, WAY past the shift lights till I thought I heard the rev limiter. On the 2D dash, I think it was about 17,000RPM. 3 laps later, I popped the motor. Can anyone guess to the discrepancy between dash tach and dyno tach?

If this is a Kalex moto 2 bike then the limiter is somewhere around 17k or a bit above. You would have the springs to accommodate that.
The only moto 2 engines to blow that i know of during a race were both attributed to rider error at they were from consistent over reving.

4) Crankshaft broke - is that common?
not really but if it's a worked and tired motor it's definitely possible.


5) Yesterday mechanic install OEM bone stock 2013 cbr600rr motor with 1000 miles. Only switched the clutch to the FCC one from the original motor. Upon my request, I don't need to "build up" this motor because I don't need the 10 extra HP and would rather have a more reliable engine. My question, the HRC ecu is made to work with the HRC cams which have different timing right? So will my new OEM motor not run right with the HRC ecu? Am I forced to use the HRC cams for the timing to be correct?

you will be fine but i would adjust your ecu on the dyno to reflect no power up kit.

6) I have the dongle and software for the HRC ecu but haven't plugged it in ever. Is that where I can change QS sensitivity?

no

I know it's alot of question, and probably dumb questions, but I'm not a mechanic so I'm doing the best I can :)

Thanks alot of any input that can point me in a better direction.
Noam

i put my feedback below your questions.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-16-2018, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for valuable input.
Iím sorry to say that my mechanic was totally lost on the hrc ecu, and when he dynoed the new oem motor he just did the AF ratio on the bazzaz and didnít tell the hrc ecu that now we have a Stock cam for Stock timing.

I am worried now my engine will fire too early or too late and Iím about to do 2 track days starting tomorrow on this bike.

The terms pinging and detonation come to mind :(

Stock motor made 108hp on dyno.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-16-2018, 05:12 PM
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Changing cam specs doesn't change ignition timing. There are no things to tune in the computer for larger cams besides the a/f ratio you already tune with stock cams too.

'06 F4i- Yoshimura RS-3C, Racetech springs and valves, Ohlin's rear shock, steel brake lines, 520 conversion. 87k miles and counting.....
'08 600RR- Stripped trackbike. CRG shorty brake lever, goodridge front brake lines
'15 1000RR- weekend toy
------Disclaimer: I can't spell------
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-18-2018, 01:10 PM
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and i think the stock setting may be 0 for the timing so you would be fine there. If you are running pump fuel you would likely want to adjust it to +1 or +2.

If not being done on dyno go +1 to be safe.
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