Valve clearances - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Valve clearances

Hi
I’ve been reading on the web regarding the clearances and I’m pretty sure mine have not been done yet at 23k. Is there any tell tale signs they need doing etc
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 07:55 AM
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The odometer.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Hi
23,000 miles
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 01:09 PM
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Hi
23,000 miles
Sorry, I meant the odometer is what I go by. I am no authority, but I would estimate at your mileage it is ready to be serviced.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ah I understand,my bike garage is a long distance away from me,so thinking about having a go myself. He’s been doing bikes for years as well as racing and Ive not long got off the phone to him to ask about the clearances. He said there shouldn’t be an issue and the first sign they’ll need doing is if I start getting problems starting the bike. He said he’ll do a check for me,but until any starting issues I’d be throwing my money away?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 06:45 PM
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You don't need to fuss around with it if your bike is stock and you don't track. Manual recommend checking at every 16,000 miles. Your bike will still operate into the 50,000 or more without a hiccup. It's just not in its optimal condition the longer you delay it.

Last edited by dreamzboy; 03-21-2018 at 07:25 PM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 06:53 PM
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You don't need to fuss around with it if your bike is stock and you don't track. Manual recommend checking at every 32,000 miles. Your bike will still operate into the 50,000 or more without a hiccup. It's just not in its optimal condition the longer you delay it.
He meant to say the manual say 16k.

'06 F4i- Yoshimura RS-3C, Racetech springs and valves, Ohlin's rear shock, steel brake lines, 520 conversion. 87k miles and counting.....
'08 600RR- Stripped trackbike. CRG shorty brake lever, goodridge front brake lines
'15 1000RR- weekend toy
------Disclaimer: I can't spell------
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 07:06 PM
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Checking them isn't hard. Replacing them takes a little more effort.

To check them you have to get all the front end fairings off, tilt the gas tank back, remove airbox, move the radiator out of the way, remove ignition coils and spark plugs, and take the cylinder head cover off. Then its a matter of lining up timing marks and measuring the right valves at the right time. Takes like an hour and a half to get to this part if you've done it before.

If you have to replace them, then you're talking about unwinding the cam chain tensioner, removing camshaft retainers and camshafts, then finally pulling buckets, measuring shims and ordering the proper replacement sizes.

'03 600 RR - ~33,000 miles (14,000 from me)
Yoshimura RS-5 Slip on - Arrow Stainless Headers - BMC Street Filter - PCV - EK 520 Chain on Driven Sprockets - CoreMoto Stainless Lines (F+R) - Dan Kyle PAIR Delete - The2Wheels Shorty Levers - Vortex V3 Rearsets - Woodcraft Frame Sliders & Bar Ends - Woodcraft Stator and Clutch Covers - Cox Radiator Guard - Renthal Dual Compound Grips - 1000RR Kill Switch and Throttle Housing - TST IT and FE - Proton Flushmounts

Last edited by G Money; 03-21-2018 at 07:09 PM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-22-2018, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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Bike is stock apart from a slip on,bike runs and pull very well so I may give the valves a check when I change the plugs,next thing to check is my cct as these are prone to sticking too I hear. Thanks for the input guys,really appreciate it
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