Fuel pump won’t prime after bike failure - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-18-2018, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel pump won’t prime after bike failure

Still trying to figure the site out. I have an issue with the bike. Was going to find th appropriate thread but nothing seems to match.
2006 cbr 600rr
Bike started and rode perfect
Rode 17 miles
Bike shut off and lost all power Battery was dead and would not pop start
Put new battery in and the bike only cranked
all lights and dash worked
Replaced stator and rectifier Swapped all relays around.
Still no start.
Fuel pump does not prime with key. Does prime when hardwired
Kill switch is on.
Starter cranks.
When kill switch is off starter doesn’t crank.
Not a chip key
ignition only has two wires. Being 2006 USA model
Checked for melted connections all looks good.
Any help I am totally lost
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post #2 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-20-2018, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Thewifesbike View Post
Still trying to figure the site out. I have an issue with the bike. Was going to find th appropriate thread but nothing seems to match.
2006 cbr 600rr
Bike started and rode perfect
Rode 17 miles
Bike shut off and lost all power Battery was dead and would not pop start
Put new battery in and the bike only cranked
all lights and dash worked
Replaced stator and rectifier Swapped all relays around.
Still no start.
Fuel pump does not prime with key. Does prime when hardwired
Kill switch is on.
Starter cranks.
When kill switch is off starter doesn’t crank.
Not a chip key
ignition only has two wires. Being 2006 USA model
Checked for melted connections all looks good.
Any help I am totally lost
Any help??? Well I am here for you! LOL

Google zener diode (don't think 2006 has one - so just make sure it doesn't). Check all fuses. Swap your relays around. Try to bump start the bike in 2nd gear. Check ground connections, clean and re-attach.

Read this thread https://www.600rr.net/vb/62-troublesh...ont-start.html
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post #3 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-20-2018, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help! No zener already checked. Will not bump start. I swapped the relays around but I may be leaning towards something bigger. I now realize the blinkers do not flash. So something major happened when the bike died... at least that’s what I’m assuming. Hope not.
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post #4 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-22-2018, 01:21 AM
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I know on my 2009 the wire that goes to the fuel pump was not connecting properly and would give me intermittent trouble after cleaning out my gas tank. I in fact just got stuck riding around town checking for any 'further' problems with the bike and ended up coming to a complete stop as if the engine cut off button was pushed..... I looked around for some long object to test my suspicion as the bike is basically new. ... There I was on the side of the road sticking a palm frawn in the tank to 'push' on the faulty wiring (It literally is eaten away by ethanol I guess). Started up and ran like a champ.
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post #5 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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There is no power going to the fuel pump relay. So it is before the pump. Replacing ignition next
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post #6 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ment to say replacing kill switch next.
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post #7 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-23-2018, 01:35 PM
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if you shorted the black/black white and the engine stop relay didn't click, it's the BAS that's holding it out.


stop just replacing stuff you're just wasting your money
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post #8 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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The relay does click. And the kill switch did not fix the issue.
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post #9 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel pump works when tested
Killswitch is good
Ignition is good
Starter is good
Spark is good
Relays are good
Kickstand switch is good
New stator and rectifier
New battery
Power to all relays EXCEPT FUEL PUMP.
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post #10 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 09:24 AM
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Did you check what I told you to check in the other thread
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post #11 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 10:04 AM
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keep it to one thread you are making this worse for everyone


the coil side of the relay should have a black/white and a brown/black, ground the brown black. if the fuel pump runs, try to start the bike. if it starts, try a known good ECU.

Last edited by wibbly; 04-24-2018 at 10:40 AM.
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post #12 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
keep it to one thread you are making this worse for everyone


the coil side of the relay should have a black/white and a brown/black, kiground the brown black. if the fuel pump runs, try to start the bike. if it starts, try a known good ECU.
Thanks man! I’ll try that tonight. Sorry for the confusion just trying to get it out there didn’t know who was responding to it, where. But much appreciated
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post #13 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Anything else you might recommend while I’m at it if this doesn’t work?
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post #14 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 01:19 PM
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My fuel pump 'worked when tested' as well but when it was put back in the tank (worked again when tested) then with gas it somehow shorted out the questionable/failing contacts. I pulled it out a dozen times tested it a dozen more and when I put it in the bike with fuel it would not work right off the bat or drop out some time later like someone pushed a kill switch..

The blue black connections are corroded or micro fractured but the fuel pump itself is is in perfectly good working order. If you get the pump to prime in the tank it will start. Jab the bugger with a stick to see if what I was saying 'exposes the problem' as that is an easy enough test to try... Plus it's free n easy.
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post #15 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 01:42 PM
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"jab it with a stick"

sage advice.




if the fuel pump relay isn't pulling, the problem lies in the control circuit.


i told you how to test that circuit. if it works, try a known good ecu as i stated.
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post #16 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Naja View Post
My fuel pump 'worked when tested' as well but when it was put back in the tank (worked again when tested) then with gas it somehow shorted out the questionable/failing contiacts. I pulled it out a dozen times tested it a dozen more and when I put it in the bike with fuel it would not work right off the bat or drop out some time later like someone pushed a kill switch..

The blue black connections are corroded or micro fractured but the fuel pump itself is is in perfectly good working order. If you get the pump to prime in the tank it will start. Jab the bugger with a stick to see if what I was saying 'exposes the problem' as that is an easy enough test to try... Plus it's free n easy.

The pump is still in the tank with a full tank of gas. The problem is way before there do to the fact that there is no power going to the relay. I do appreciate your advice tho! I’m going to see if what the other gentleman recommended works if so I’ve got an ECU on stand by for order
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post #17 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 03:03 PM
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You need to do more testing.


Stop trying to purchase your way out of the problem it could be as simple as a corroded pin
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post #18 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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You need to do more testing.


Stop trying to purchase your way out of the problem it could be as simple as a corroded pin

Well sorry man. The battery died while riding. So I ordered the stator and rectifier before the bike even made it home. Put those in two days later and then realized it wasn’t the issue. My bad. I havnt purchased anything else. I have gotten to the ground box and that looks fine. I disconnected and reconnected every plug. Everything appears as it should. But you said it could be an Ecu but now your saying it could be a corroded pin... i appreciate your help. But don’t assume I havnt tried everything I personally knew before coming on line and making an idiot of myself.
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post #19 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 03:50 PM
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I told you exactly what to do to verify if it's the ecu.


Did you do that?
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post #20 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Bike has 33k miles on it anything I replace isn’t going to hurt it. And throwing a few $50 at a bike that my wife rides gives me a little more satisfaction. So fixing wear parts in the process to help eliminate. I’m ok with that. My wife is 5 months pregnant and she just wanted to ride once this year before she got to uncomfortable that’s why I am on a time crunch and came on here. Like I said though. I appreciate any and all help. I don’t claim to know it all. Trying my best
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post #21 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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I told you exactly what to do to verify if it's the ecu.


Did you do that?

Not sure what time zone your in but you told me that this morning. And it’s 4pm now. I’m still at work. I will do that tonight once I get home and get the kids to bed
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post #22 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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I put a wire on the negative terminal. Put an aligator clip on the brown and black wire as you said... nothing happened different
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post #23 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 07:53 PM
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check for 12v on the black/white wire on the other side of the coil.


if that isn't energized, then you're lying about the kill switch.
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post #24 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 08:18 PM
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did you also check the 20 amp efi fuse. it's in its own holder by the battery, not in the fuse box.
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post #25 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 08:25 PM
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This thread is sounding familiar.
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post #26 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
check for 12v on the black/white wire on the other side of the coil.


if that isn't energized, then you're lying about the kill switch.
When I put a multi to each of the four wires there is nothing. 0.00. If the kill switch was bad why does the starter crank in on and not in off position?
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post #27 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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<img src="https://www.600rr.net/gallery/files/3/4/4/4/popcorn_195557.gif" border="0" alt="" title="popcorn" class="inlineimg" />

This thread is sounding familiar.
That other thread isn’t full of people that are not sure where the kick stand is suppose to be. The issue that I am having is a little more complex I feel.
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post #28 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 09:00 PM
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ok look, this is very very simple.



there is a fuse off the battery, it has a 20 amp fuse in it, it feeds the efi circuit. it's red and white

the red white feeds the contact for the engine stop relay, when the engine stop relay is triggered it powers up the black/white that feeds the bank angle sensor relay

the engine stop relay is controlled by the kill switch, it is fed by a white/black which is from fuse D in the fuse box, the wire FROM the kill switch is a black wire, and it goes to the coil on the engine stop relay. the other side of the coil on the engine stop relay goes to the bank angle sensor as a red/white. the bank angle sensor connects this wire to ground.





first check for power on the red/white on the engine stop relay, if this wire is dead, then change the 20 amp fuse, if this wire is live, then check for 12v on the black wire on the coil side of the engine stop relay (from the kill switch) make sure the key is on and the kill switch is set to run when youu check. if there is 12v on the black wire, then make sure that the red/white wire is grounded through the bank angle sensor. or simply unplug the bank angle sensor and short the red/white to the green.


now you should be able to flick the kill switch and hear the relay click. it is possible that you are already experiencing this but your 20 amp efi fuse is blown and hence no action on the fuel cut relay.


once you have the engine stop relay working, chances are the rest of the bike will work. if not, then you need to look at the fuel cut relay. the black/white powers both the contact and the coil, so if there is 12v on that black/white wire, all you need is the ground signal on the brown/black from the ecm. if you have 12v on the black/white and no action on the relay, try a known good ecu.


chances are you won't get that far, because i suspect your issue is much simpler.





if you are confused, keep reading this post until you understand. absolutely 100% of what you need to figure out your problem is clearly explained above.




i'm going for a ride.
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post #29 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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did you also check the 20 amp efi fuse. it's in its own holder by the battery, not in the fuse box.

If that is the one under the red cap attached to the starter relay box. Then yes that is fine.
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post #30 of 56 (permalink) Old 04-24-2018, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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WHy would I lie about anything I’ve spent hours looking at this thing and testing wires. I’m just trying to get advice. Because I’m stumped. If you think I’m doing something you don’t think is right, inform me. I’m not sure how to post pictures on here and I don’t have a photobucket. Or anything like that. I don’t even have Facebook. If you would want to text I can send you photos.
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