APE CCT vibration/buzz - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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APE CCT vibration/buzz

I recently had a shop install a manual APE CCT on my 04 CBR600RR. Not sure if they did it correctly? But underload the bike makes a buzzing/vibration resonance throughout the RPM band that I didn't really notice before. I know what the " tick" sounds like when its too loose like BB's rattling. I readjusted everything myself and made sure its not too tight/loose. Only thing I can think of is maybe something is loose? I checked my fairings, bolts, etc. Worse case perhaps a timing guide was damaged somehow?

The mechanic at the shop installed the tensioner too tight I backed it off from his original position about 1/4 to almost a 1/2 turn counterclockwise to ease the tension. Possibly stretching the chain or breaking a guide.

Timing seems ok. I haven't take it apart to verify, but it idles and rev's fine. I called APE they weren't of any real help. I've taken to a shop when having a clutch installed, they said it sounds good when reving it. I explained you have to RIDE the damn bike and listen for it and feel it.

Last edited by EMT760RR; 08-27-2018 at 02:22 AM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:22 AM
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That's a strange one. I don't know how they could have screwed anything up putting it in, and if you readjusted it and it's still making the noise that pretty much rules out the ape unit itself. You did tighten the locknut on the Ape right?

After reading your edits, it's possible some damage was done by the shops original overtightening (this is why I won't let shops work on my bike). How many miles did you ride with the chain overtensioned? Was the noise immediate after having the work done or did it come on gradually. Finally, did the noise get any better after readjusting the tensioner?

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets

Last edited by Honda-Power; 08-27-2018 at 02:27 AM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Honda-Power View Post
That's a strange one. I don't know how they could have screwed anything up putting it in, and if you readjusted it and it's still making the noise that pretty much rules out the ape unit itself. You did tighten the locknut on the Ape right?
Yeah, I used locktight. I mean I know alot of people will say you have to line it up TDC and make sure the cams don't move when you take the OEM one out and put the new one in. They installed it rather quickly within a 1 hour or so. I doubt they checked the timing, but I watched the mechanic tighten it and rev the motor to eliminate any tick from being loose.

Who knows maybe it could be motor mount? I just know the buzz/vibration started with the APE unit going in.

Last edited by EMT760RR; 08-27-2018 at 02:28 AM.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:29 AM
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Check for my edit above

With these bikes you really don't need to check the timing when doing a cct swap imo. I just unbolt the old and put the new one in. Unless you turn the motor without a tensioner in there, the cam chain won't skip teeth or anything during the swap

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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I noticed when I rode away, it was making a high pitched sound a bit. Already frustrated with the shop, I just loosened it myself. But I rode home like 8 miles. I don't trust their work anymore, plus they were idiots from the beginning when they decided going OEM would be the best bet. But since the chain was stretched, I told them a OEM would not work and they needed to put the APE CCT in. The bike is at 20k miles.

I recently, adjusted it again to its sweet spot, which got rid of like 90% of the noise. Not sure if adjusting a smudge bit more would make a difference. My guess is one of the guides or the chain is worn. Would it be worth investigating that further?

Last edited by EMT760RR; 08-27-2018 at 02:38 AM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 03:06 AM
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The chain and guides should be fine with only 20k miles on them. I have over 40k miles on my RR with stock chain and guides. They should last a long long time.

If the noise is 90% gone I wouldn't worry too much. You could try backing the tensioner out a bit more, and seeing if that's better. I personally try to run my tensioner a smidge loose rather than tight. Sometimes I hear mine rattle a tad on startup but once warm and especially under load I don't hear my cam chain/guides at all.

If you can get video/audio of the sound, that would be helpful. It's hard to say if you have a real problem or not without riding the bike.

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Honda-Power View Post
The chain and guides should be fine with only 20k miles on them. I have over 40k miles on my RR with stock chain and guides. They should last a long long time.

If the noise is 90% gone I wouldn't worry too much. You could try backing the tensioner out a bit more, and seeing if that's better. I personally try to run my tensioner a smidge loose rather than tight. Sometimes I hear mine rattle a tad on startup but once warm and especially under load I don't hear my cam chain/guides at all.

If you can get video/audio of the sound, that would be helpful. It's hard to say if you have a real problem or not without riding the bike.

Hopefully, thats the case. But the OEM wasn't even that bad, I just had a slight tick on start up and figured ehh... Why not replace it with a APE one. That's what started this whole fiasco. I'll try and take a video of it see if I can capture the sound over the Yoshimura exhaust note. I think i'll have to tighten up more, just a finger tight turn. But who knows maybe it could just be chain slap or a worn guide. I do have pops on deceleration, not sure if that means anything ( timing off) or just the PAIR valve injecting air to burn out unburnt fuel?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2018, 06:03 PM
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Slight popping on Decel is fine. When I deleted the pair valve on my bike the popping was reduced but not eliminated.

Your timing is fine. You would know if it was off.

2003 Honda CBR600RR
- Renthal Sprockets (15/45) - DID 520ERV3
- Micron Slip on - Pair/EVAP delete
- SS front brake lines - Gilles Rearsets
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-28-2018, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMT760RR View Post
plus they were idiots from the beginning when they decided going OEM would be the best bet.
It can be. I put over 50,000 miles on my F4i using oem tensioners.
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But since the chain was stretched, I told them a OEM would not work and they needed to put the APE CCT in.
For once in my life I'm not trying to be a jerk, but if you needed a shop to do this mechanical work for you, how are you qualified to say the chain is stretched? On top of that, stretched or not the oem and manual tensions have the same amount of adjustability in them. If one won't work, the other won't either. Its not like there is unlimited space between the chain as it loops inside that small passage from the crank to the cams, eventually you'll tighten the chain right into itself.

'06 F4i- Yoshimura RS-3C, Racetech springs and valves, Ohlin's rear shock, steel brake lines, 520 conversion. 87k miles and counting.....
'08 600RR- Stripped trackbike. CRG shorty brake lever, goodridge front brake lines
'15 1000RR- weekend toy
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