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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Bulb blowing

Last couple of days my dipped headlight bulb on my 03 Cbr600rr has blown 3 times!!
it comes on with ignition turned on and also after a ride,but the next day I turn it on it’s blown again and also once during a ride out.
anything I should be checking,I’ve not touched the glass at all while fitting the bulb
​​​​​​​thanks
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 06:22 PM
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Yea first thing is always dont touch the bulbs, maybe try a different bulb temporarily to see if it's crap bulbs. But it sounds more like an electrical problem. Maybe wires are touching (this happened to me recently on my 06). Could be a part failing but im not sure which part. The manual has a wire diagram i took my front end apart so i can trace the headlight cables. Not difficult if you got some time and a careful eye
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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I’ll take a look in the morning,I’ll check the connector that fits onto the bulb prongs see if any issues with the wires first and maybe check voltage to see if high voltage is blowing the bulb,but the high beam is fine though
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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I’ve just done some battery checks,ignition on is reading 12.4,engine running is reading 15.3 and reving the engine is approx 17.0,but not really used a meter before,have I got it on the correct level/setting in photo
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 10:18 AM
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17 is way too high. You likely have a faulty rectifier
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Do I need a specific one or will ebay item 232535336617 be fine?
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 12:47 PM
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You need one that fits your bike.

I would suggested getting a shindengen mosfet type and not some janky eBay one
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I’m in the process now,they look pretty easy to replace,anything I need to be careful with or are they just plug and play?
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 04:05 PM
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About as easy as can get. Plug and play. On your voltmeter photo you have the positive and negative probes backasswards, hence the minus symbol on the reading.

A correctly working charging system should read a little over 14v at idle (mine reads 14.35). Revving may increase it a little but it shouldn't increase it a lot.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bat-1 View Post
About as easy as can get. Plug and play. On your voltmeter photo you have the positive and negative probes backasswards, hence the minus symbol on the reading.

A correctly working charging system should read a little over 14v at idle (mine reads 14.35). Revving may increase it a little but it shouldn't increase it a lot.
Ah I wondered why I had the minus symbol lol!!
I’ve had my bike about 10 months now with 24kmiles,how long do the regulators approx last as I’ve noticed mine currently has a tour max regulator fitted,which must have already been replaced as it’s not oem?

Last edited by cips007; 09-03-2018 at 02:51 AM.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 06:56 PM
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They normally last the life of the bike. I've never had to replace one due to failure and I've had two bikes with just under 50k miles.

Certain bikes have known regulator issues (pre-recall Triumphs triples, Buell 1125s--Ducati regulators that ran the stator too hard resulting in lots of heat and early failure).

Stock regulators are almost always "shunt" type, the least expensive. An upgrade is a shunt type with Mosfett capacitors. But the gold standard is a "series" type, which works the stator only as hard as needed to produce the voltage the bike needs.

If you're having consistent regulator failure your stator may be overcharging. If you want to get into all that I can send you instructions how to test it.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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I’ll try the new rectifier when it arrives tomorrow,hopefully should be ok. I don’t know if it’s had previous issues,but the one fitted is a tour max brand
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 04:21 PM
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I think Tourmax is what Honda used to call its parts division. Tourmax parts were definitely OEM on older Honda bikes. Sort of like Chrysler and Mopar or GM and AC/Delco.

Once you plug in your new R/R, start her up and measure the voltage at the battery. If you're in the low 14s and it doesn't spike when revved your good to go.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I’ve just removed my old r/r before my new one arrives and done some diode tests,they all work out correct/perfect..does this mean it’s working fine with no faults or can it still cause over charging?
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 08:03 PM
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Apparently testing "at rest" isn't conclusive but it's a good sign. Here's how you test your stator:

The simplest/quickest way of determining a stator problem - in majority of cases a bad stator will be indicated by failing following test:
Check resistance from any one pin to the engine ground terminal – this should not read any indication – maximum resistance or open-circuit.
If you read ‘short’ in that last test, then your stator is bad.
(if open, it is not quite guaranteed your stator is good however - but in majority of cases a failed stator will fail this isolation test)

Check the AC voltage output from the stator with engine running:
Leave stator disconnected from the R/R and start the engines.
With meter set to read AC Volts check
1-2
2-3
3-1
All three should be the same value – any significant difference of one reading will indicate a bad phase and the stator is probably defective.
At idle this should be ~ 20V* and rise to ~ 70V* at 5K rpm.
I hesitate to use absolute numbers here as this can be different between models and test equipment and especially the engine rpm!
What you are looking for is same value between phases and like increase on each phase as rpm increases.
If any of the above tests raises suspicion, pull the cover & inspect the stator. It is simple to do and can set your mind at ease by seeing what it looks like. Hopefully NOT with 1/3 of it a black charred mess!

Those aren't my words but courtesy of DeCosse from Triumphrat.net
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks I’ll do the test this morning,is it a simple job to replace the stator if it checks faulty?
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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Ok r/r fitted idle reading 14.01 reving reading 14.02-3,are these correct readings,assuming it was a faulty r/r?
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-05-2018, 07:42 AM
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Readings are in line with what they should be. As long as you're over 14 you're good. And this will vary while riding. I have a bike that shows voltage on the cluster and depending on speed/rpm I get between 12.5 and 14.5 with 14.1 the norm during normal flight.

Now to see if that was what was causing your bulb issue ...

It seems a bit odd that only one bulb popped consistently but the ways of electricity can be strange and puzzling.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-05-2018, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I wondered why only the dipped bulb,but don’t/hadn’t switched it to full beam,so maybe that’s why!
Checked all my connections for burns/melting due to not knowing how long it’s been over charging,but as far as I can see everything looks ok,I’ll keep an eye on the voltage for now,I did a stator test before fitting the r/r and that seemed ok 👍
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