2008 CBR purchase questions - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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2008 CBR purchase questions

2008 CBR600rr with 2K+ miles

Its do or die time to make an offer with a person I have been talking with for 5-6 months on the above bike. I have yet to take a look at the bike but have been talking with the person via Email for several months and found them on Craigslist. I have no reason to think they are tying to fool me. I buy things online all the time and know how to spot a fool. This sounds like a person who has had their bike for ten years and just never road the bike and now wants to sell it for the best price they can.

The person said they are going to sell the bike to a dealer they bought it from for 4k. I have gone back and forth telling them I could buy it on the spot for $3.5k. So we went back and forth slowly for a few months and now they told me its do or die time to check out the bike and make an offer.

Kelly Blue Book states the trade in price is #$3.7k and was $3.2 during the summer. They told me the dealer offered them $4k. I want to offer to come see the bike this weekend and offer them something. Maybe -$4k.

What are your thoughts?



I also have virtually identical bike with a couple scratches and 10k miles on it for $3.9k to possible check out.

And a 2011 Leyla with 10k for a bit more available.

Again, what do you think I should do with the current situation and the bike? Make an offer for $3500-4k? OR ask the seller to give me their 'best" price?

Thanks guys for any replies.

PS. I have a 2012 CBR250r that I want to keep with -10k miles on it.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 08:07 AM
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FWIW: I buy and sell about half a dozen bikes a year. Bought/sold four 600rr's this year.

I put 2k on several bikes every 3-4 months. It's easy to swap out the cluster (disclaimer: I've only done this when the cluster has been missing). Mileage is stored on the cluster not the ECU so one could put 50k on a bike, buy a $200 cluster from a wrecked bike on eBay and voila, bike now has 2k on it. I doubt that's the case here as the mileage is so low you'd have to replace chain, tires, pads with new OEM to match or it would be obvious.

But its' a machine that's been sitting 99% of its 10+ year existence. Worse in my book than a bike that's been exercised regularly. You'll immediately want to replace the OEM tires so keep that cost in mind. If it doesn't have OEM tires something is fishy.

I've found that blue book is largely irrelevant. Time of the year, what other similar bikes are selling for and demand in your area is what matters. I've never bought a bike for book value, usually well below. When I sell them I start at low book. Everyone on CL wants a monster deal and supply far exceeds demand for most models.

And $4k cash from a dealer for a 10 year old bike sounds like B.S. (maybe trade in value) I can buy 10 year old 600rr's for $4k every day of the week. Granted not with that low of miles but dealers generally need to mark up at least 50% to make it worth their while. And they ain't getting $6k for it.

It sounds to me like you like this bike because of the low miles. If your major concern is resale that makes some sense. But they run practically forever. So if you just want it to ride mileage on these tanks is largely irrelevant.

As a point of reference I'm currently selling an '11 with 14.5k, miles for $4500. It looks like it just rolled out of the showroom with new front tire, pads and all fluids.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 08:28 AM
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My thoughts?

If you were stringing me along for 5 or 6 months on a bike making offers on something that you haven’t even seen I’d screw with you as much as I could and try every trick in the book to get you to pay top dollar. It’s obvious who is driving the boat in this scenario.

And saying you can spot a fool via messages shows who the fool really is, if I’m being honest.

Go look at the bike, determine who’s lying or not by seeing if the bike actually matches the description IN PERSON. As stated, swapping clusters is easy, aftermarket bodywork can initially look great and be very deceiving to a potential, unsuspecting buyer. You can hide a lot under touch up paint and great lighting so a picture looks great. Until you see the bike in person, look under the engine at the pipes and oil pan, inside fairings, look at mirror edges, foot pegs, shift levers, look for straight bars, tires worn funny, straight forks, etc. you don’t know anything and can’t make a legit offer.

And stop wasting peoples times who are trying to sell something; you either are or aren’t interested. Stringing people along making bullshit lowball offers without even looking at it is a dickish move and I would have told you off months ago if it were me. Either look at it, and tell them why it’s worth less than asking price or move on.

You wanted thoughts, there’s mine.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post
My thoughts?

If you were stringing me along for 5 or 6 months on a bike making offers on something that you haven’t even seen I’d screw with you as much as I could and try every trick in the book to get you to pay top dollar. It’s obvious who is driving the boat in this scenario.

And saying you can spot a fool via messages shows who the fool really is, if I’m being honest.

Go look at the bike, determine who’s lying or not by seeing if the bike actually matches the description IN PERSON. As stated, swapping clusters is easy, aftermarket bodywork can initially look great and be very deceiving to a potential, unsuspecting buyer. You can hide a lot under touch up paint and great lighting so a picture looks great. Until you see the bike in person, look under the engine at the pipes and oil pan, inside fairings, look at mirror edges, foot pegs, shift levers, look for straight bars, tires worn funny, straight forks, etc. you don’t know anything and can’t make a legit offer.

And stop wasting peoples times who are trying to sell something; you either are or aren’t interested. Stringing people along making bullshit lowball offers without even looking at it is a dickish move and I would have told you off months ago if it were me. Either look at it, and tell them why it’s worth less than asking price or move on.

You wanted thoughts, there’s mine.
Thanks for the reply I appreciate it. To be clear I'm not stringing this guy along with low ball offers. Sorry if I gave this impression. I have been trying to see the bike for months. The person doesn't seem like they are trying to swindle me they just seem like a very low motivated seller; taking a long time to answer emails, never being available to show the bike...

Honestly, I gave up on pursuing the bike several times but then the person emails and offers to show the bike and then doesn't reply back. Its f'n dumb. I agree with get this **** over with quickly and don't string either of us along.

The person emailed me last night and told me it was last chance to get the bike. Previous emails the person said they were going to sell it back to the dealer come winter if he doesn't sell it himself.

I emailed the guy asking to see the bike and he hasn't replied back. Its stupid.

If I cannot see the bike today or tomorrow I think its solid that the bike was not meant to be.

Last edited by TrippplePPP; 11-24-2018 at 11:58 AM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bat-1 View Post
FWIW: I buy and sell about half a dozen bikes a year. Bought/sold four 600rr's this year.

I put 2k on several bikes every 3-4 months. It's easy to swap out the cluster (disclaimer: I've only done this when the cluster has been missing). Mileage is stored on the cluster not the ECU so one could put 50k on a bike, buy a $200 cluster from a wrecked bike on eBay and voila, bike now has 2k on it. I doubt that's the case here as the mileage is so low you'd have to replace chain, tires, pads with new OEM to match or it would be obvious.

But its' a machine that's been sitting 99% of its 10+ year existence. Worse in my book than a bike that's been exercised regularly. You'll immediately want to replace the OEM tires so keep that cost in mind. If it doesn't have OEM tires something is fishy.

I've found that blue book is largely irrelevant. Time of the year, what other similar bikes are selling for and demand in your area is what matters. I've never bought a bike for book value, usually well below. When I sell them I start at low book. Everyone on CL wants a monster deal and supply far exceeds demand for most models.

And $4k cash from a dealer for a 10 year old bike sounds like B.S. (maybe trade in value) I can buy 10 year old 600rr's for $4k every day of the week. Granted not with that low of miles but dealers generally need to mark up at least 50% to make it worth their while. And they ain't getting $6k for it.

It sounds to me like you like this bike because of the low miles. If your major concern is resale that makes some sense. But they run practically forever. So if you just want it to ride mileage on these tanks is largely irrelevant.

As a point of reference I'm currently selling an '11 with 14.5k, miles for $4500. It looks like it just rolled out of the showroom with new front tire, pads and all fluids.
Thanks for the reply. Yes, low miles is a lure to me and others have told me a 10 year old bike with 10K and driven a lot is better off. I really don't think this person is trying to swindle me with low miles stuff because if he was he would have been eager to get me in and get me out. I have been emailing back and forth with this guy for months and he seems very low motivated and kind of dumb.

Since this process has been taking so long I have had time to research things to look for on the bike before buying. I should review these posts before I go to take a look, if get to look at the bike.

I do see similar bikes going to a little below 4k around here. In fact there is an identical one for sale near by in lesser condition going for about that.

I also and emailing another guy who has a 2011 Leyla with 10k on it asking around 5k.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Do you know where I can find a picture of the stock tires. I can spot the CBR250 stock tires any day but don't know what the stock 600rr's have.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-24-2018, 11:08 PM
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quick search on the interwebs revealed Bridgestone Battlax BT-015 or the Dunlop Qualifiers as OEM.

My 08 had the Battlax S21 when I bought it and don't think that is OEM.

Good luck with your purchase!

Are we there yet?!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-25-2018, 09:22 AM
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Look on the side of the tire for the manufacture date. four digit number after DOT - first two digits will between 01 and 52 and indicate week made. Last two will be year made.

The VIN plate will show you when this 08 model came off the line. This could have been anywhere from mid 07 to mid 08.

Tires should be within approx. 6 months of bike mfg. date.

Anyone who doesn't ride their bike but claims to keep up on the maintenance, including replacing tires that 'age out,' is highly suspect.
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