Removing throttle cable slack for the track, helpful? -
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Removing throttle cable slack for the track, helpful?

My previous trackday I noticed that it was tricky going from closed throttle to opening it up again for maintenance throttle. No matter how gentle I was my bike always wanted to 'jolt' forward, not smooth at all.

I recall a tip that to avoid this problem I should adjust my throttle cable to remove all slack and even keep it open slightly. Can anyone confirm or deny this?


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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 08:54 PM
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I can confirm. I have my throttle adjusted so that when it's completely closed, it just has a slight bit of slack to not be putting any pressure on the throttle bodies. Some people will argue against the throttle being adjusted like that incase it sticks and you cannot manually roll the the throttle off to completely close the butterflies, but that's why we have a kill switch and clutch lever.
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 08:55 PM
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my throttle is perfect, there is only a kunt hair of slack, its the only way to roll bub,

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-12-2010, 08:20 AM
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I'm a noob and have wanted to do this but don't know how. Can anybody shed some light? sry to thread jack

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-12-2010, 10:08 AM
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There is an adjustment on the "pull" part of the throttle cable right where it comes out of the throttle tube at your right grip. Loosen the locking nut and turn the adjuster piece (it's about an inch long and looks like a hex nut). If you are standing at the right side of the bike and looking to the left, you would turn it....Clockwise. When you are done adjusting this, you should feel almost NO slack in the throttle cable. IMPORTANT.....Make sure that you have the engine running and then turn the steering all the way left and then turn it all the way right. When you do this, you should NOT notice any change in engine RPM. If you do notice a change, back off of the adjustment
1/2 turn and try again. I idea is to take out almost all of the slack in the cable but NOT to the point that turning the bars left and right causes any change in engine RPM. Once that is accomplished, tighten down the original lock nut that you loosened for adjustment purposes. Make sure that when tightening the lock nut back down that you hold the adjuster piece with a wrench so that it doesn't turn when you lock it down. Hope this helps.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-12-2010, 10:42 AM
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Just another viewpoint...

I usually remove all the slack on my bikes as well, and since this bike went from the showroom to the track, that's the what I did that with my 08 600rr.

However, I was unable to get on the gas smoothly.. especially in rights.

This is the first bike that I had to put the slack back in.

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