Recommended gearing for track/street bike - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 04:32 AM Thread Starter
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Recommended gearing for track/street bike

Just seeing what you guys are running for gearing on your track bikes. I'm just looking for a good starting point. Thanks.


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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 05:33 AM
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15/43 or 15/45. 45 some people find good. I myself run 43 and love it.

Edit: Forgot to say. At my local track the fastest I get is around 240kmp/h which is top of 5th.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, thanks. I might split it and run 15/44. I did a little more research and that seems to be a popular with a street bike. Most people say at the track I will be doing track-days at this year (MAM) that 145mph is about the speed most 600's are getting to on the straight.


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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 09:08 AM
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The 15/45 is an outstanding combo. You will notice a considerable improvement of the drive out of corners without killing your top speed.

My first track day, an old timer told me -1/+3 is the perfect for any track in the US. It will be my next combo.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 03:29 PM
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I'm going to run 14/45 here in a few weeks. But that is on my 636, which was 15/43 stock

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 03:58 PM
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I would not go down on the front of the 636. It will make the turn around the front sprocket very stressful for the chain. Personally I'd just go up 2 or 3 more teeth on the rear.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-03-2011, 01:26 AM
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I'm going to start with just the +2 on the rear, if I need more, I'll throw the -1 on.

'90 fox mustang
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-03-2011, 05:35 PM
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My 04 600 is track only. I have stock 15/43 and a 16. My question is at what point do I need a new chain? I have not changed any sprockets yet. Is it a pain? And do I need a new chain for each gear change. I would like to carry a couple different combo's. But not sure how hard to change said gears and or chain. Thanks for any info
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-03-2011, 07:19 PM
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Bynum,

Again, I wouldn't go down AT ALL in the front. You're going to put a lot of stress on the chain with such a tight turning radius. Go up in the rear sprocket.

Richie,

Stock gearing is 16/43, not 15. Replace the chain if there's any tight or stretched spots. There's illustrations here showing what to look for. Search it. As long as you've got the right # of links in the chain, you can run different sprockets. Changing sprockets is easy too.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 03:29 PM
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Depends on your skill and what track your riding. I would worry more about getting your suspension dialed in then worrying about what gearing your running.

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakeRR View Post
Depends on your skill and what track your riding. I would worry more about getting your suspension dialed in then worrying about what gearing your running.
Exactly what's in my mind

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 06:24 PM
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for short straight tracks, a 15/44 or 15/45 seems to run quite nicely.



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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-06-2011, 06:28 PM
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 02:56 PM
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-1/+1 or +2 for a good starting point. i run -1/+1. but changing to +3.






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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 05:10 PM
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15/46 on mine but we run mostly short twisty tracks
I installed a new chain cut slightly longer to compensate for the increase in sprocket teeth

Remember your axle position will change with some re-gearing combinations when using a stock length chain
It will change the way the bike handles (very slightly)

-1/+1 (15/44) will leave the axle in same position
Using 15/46 add one link to stock chain length (on your new chain) to compensate for the 2 extra teeth

also be advised when running an alloy rear sprocket you will be replacing it twice as often as a steel sprocket (alloy wears faster than steel)
I figure 2 alloy rears for every chain & steel front sprocket

Keep your chain & sprockets clean & lube'd to increase the life of the alloy rear sprocket.
Also rear wheel alignment is important.
A mis-aligned rear wheel will accelerate the wear on an alloy rear sprocket's teeth (the sides of the teeth)

(all this I had to learn the hard way - hope it saves you some time and $$$)

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Last edited by CNI Dawg; 05-07-2011 at 05:19 PM.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2011, 11:03 PM
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i run 15/44 and it works well for me but a bit jumpy in slow corners.
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