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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Question What rotors to buy.

well it's about that time to get some new rotors for racing,so my question is are the OEM rotors good enough cause i could get a cheaper pair off ebay or should i get some other brand name and spend some real money and if so which ones would you recommend for racing.

Cheers and thanks in advance
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 06:42 PM
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ever heard the sayin gyou get what you pay for?
i think brakes are too importanat to cut cost on, if i were you id use the oppourtunity to upgrrade to some wave rotors.

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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 06:46 PM
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I have EBC pro lites and Love them.

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 06:52 PM
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E whats the deal with the pro lites? how do they compare...
i like the way the EBC contour looks.

This is what i found, but i also see where Brembo uses high carbon steel in theirs which is stronger..

http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/rotor_comparison.html

http://www.cyclebrakes.com/html/ebc_brake_rotors.html

these guys have very competetive priceing too. anyone ever done business with them?

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not trying to cut costs here, and i know you get what u pay for and i know how important brakes are, i was just asking weather or not OEM are good enough for racing, because if they are then i may be able to get them cheaper off ebay, but if not then what rotors should i go with, i just dont know what rotor would be the best.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 08:27 PM
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ah, isss, well check the links i posted.
Maybe that will help you decide.
i love the way the galfer wave rotors look, but i cant help thinking the EBC or better yet, the brembos are better, since they also do car brakes i figure they know there stuff, and we all know brembo is the sh!t.

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 09:49 PM
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HONDA CBR1000RR / 600RR 2003-2004 310mm AXIS Design Full-Floater w/ Hard Anodized Carrier, 100% CNC billet machined construction in the USA. Cryogenically processed for maximum performance and thermal stability , Recommended pads: Ferodo FDB2079 (600rr), FDB2181 (1000rr),
Part #: BTH-31.0


www.braketech.com



i have and love these rotors

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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 09:50 PM
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 09:59 PM
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$309.95 ea. Dam that's pricey.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 10:03 PM
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yeah, Tuna is BIG PIMPIN'

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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 10:14 PM
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It's sad how over priced MC parts are sometimes. I bought new rotors and pads for my wife's Yukon the other day; the total came to approx $300.00.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 10:23 PM
 
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Just a reminder to check your rule book to see what is allowed in the classes you intend to run. Could be a factor. I run stock rotors with Veshra pads and like the feel.
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 11:05 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTuna
HONDA CBR1000RR / 600RR 2003-2004 310mm AXIS Design Full-Floater w/ Hard Anodized Carrier, 100% CNC billet machined construction in the USA. Cryogenically processed for maximum performance and thermal stability , Recommended pads: Ferodo FDB2079 (600rr), FDB2181 (1000rr),
Part #: BTH-31.0


www.braketech.com



i have and love these rotors
Now I know why you lost a couple of seconds of your normal pace... your damn brakes are working too well. Grease those bitches up a little bit next time out, I'll bet you pick up that lost time ;)

Seriously though, I can only recommend AGAINST wave rotors, they're heavier than stock and I didn't feel they worked as well either. I don't know about Tuna's rotors, but if he likes 'em they might be worth a try if you can save a buck or two, if not OEMs are pretty damn good. I really wish someone would get the new ceramic / carbon rotors so I can hear how they perform. Only $1800 a set too! They are about 3 pounds lighter than stock per pair... that's a huge difference.
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-08-2005, 11:10 PM
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I'd say stick with the stockers. Unless you're running times to compete in the type 5 of an AMA FX race.

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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blade-Runner
$309.95 ea. Dam that's pricey.
yes they are.....now look at who gave me sponsorship in 2005 :) and you will soon realize that i did not pay $309 a rotor

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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 06:57 AM
 
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Hmmmmm, you gotta look bad asss pulling a 100mph stoppie with carbon brake disks glowing in the night.
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTuna
yes they are.....now look at who gave me sponsorship in 2005 :) and you will soon realize that i did not pay $309 a rotor
Can you set me a set at your price then?
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 11:28 AM
 
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Hold up, wait a minute... doesn't brake tech make the ceramic carbon rotors? If so .... Tuna, you see me working here, right?

Uhhh, yeah Marchesini magnesium 3.25" X 16.5" on the 04 R1 in case you need the fitment :0>

Tell them to think of all the sales they'll make with all the exposure in Florida.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 12:04 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastbuck
Just a reminder to check your rule book to see what is allowed in the classes you intend to run. Could be a factor. I run stock rotors with Veshra pads and like the feel.
Ditto, if you're running a production class, you may not be able to change rotors. I sold my wave rotors and went back to stock for this very reason.

Yeah, the Vesrah pads rock!

If you're a new racer, like myself, save your money for tires... ;)
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Well thatís my next question, Iíve just done my race school at Jennings and what a track, absolutely loved it, so now I can start racing (yippee) anyway back to the point so what class can or should I run because i dont really know about what class i can be in or should be in and i dont really know what happens on race day also what organization should I go with WERA or CCS for the SE region, any recommendations would be appreciated because i dont really know what to do from here. So should I just stick with OEM Rotors then and spend the money on tires. Also just want to say it was the first time I actually got to ride the RR and oh yes I absolutely love the thing the bike just ROCKS plain and simple, had such a good day and cant wait to actually race the thing.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eazy e
I have EBC pro lites and Love them.
they feel way better more bite i also use the galfer HH pads
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-09-2005, 10:47 PM
 
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In CCS it is legal to change the rotors to aftermarket ones in supersport provided they are the same size. I'm not sure about WERA, but knowing how they work I doubt that it would be legal.
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-10-2005, 10:24 PM
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I got your email....just got home from a track day and i am running a G.O.B. Sale at my business...I'll see what I can find out for you

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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 10:41 AM
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CCS Rules state that rotors must be of a Ferrous (metal) material so the cabon/ceramic rotors would not be legal.

I am currently running stock rotors and stock pads and don't have much to complain about. The only thing I don't like is the stock master cylinder. I added superbike lines from galfer and that helped a bit but there could still stand to be more pressure there with better feel.

EBC Pro-Lites are very reasonably priced and I have heard good feedback on them.

Someone on the first page also mentioned that the brembos have more carbon in them and are thus stronger. Not true. Carbon Steel handles heat dissapation better. Depending upon the composition, alloys can be stronger than carbon steel. But brakes are dealing with impact resistance and tensile strength.

If you're on a budget, start with HRC race pads and lines. Then go from there.

Or you can subscribe to the Mladin theory of "Less brake more gas mate!"


Quote:
Originally Posted by CCSEX122
Now I know why you lost a couple of seconds of your normal pace... your damn brakes are working too well. Grease those bitches up a little bit next time out, I'll bet you pick up that lost time ;)

Seriously though, I can only recommend AGAINST wave rotors, they're heavier than stock and I didn't feel they worked as well either. I don't know about Tuna's rotors, but if he likes 'em they might be worth a try if you can save a buck or two, if not OEMs are pretty damn good. I really wish someone would get the new ceramic / carbon rotors so I can hear how they perform. Only $1800 a set too! They are about 3 pounds lighter than stock per pair... that's a huge difference.

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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 10:46 AM
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i run....a brembo master, galfer hh pads, galfer lines, and galfer waves. if any of you want to try it out go for it. then tell me its not worth it.

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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 10:55 AM
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I would love to use the brembo master cylinder but if they pull you in to tech inspection after a supersport race podium, they will fine or disqualify you for not using the stock master cylinder. ACTUALLY.....I take that back. I just read the Loudon Road Race & CCS manual and it only states calipers, wheels and forks. Wow....I feel dumb now.

Is the Brembo unit that you put on there one from Yoyodyne or one of another model like an R6? I'm thinking about just putting a production radial mount on from another bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 600rrpilot
i run....a brembo master, galfer hh pads, galfer lines, and galfer waves. if any of you want to try it out go for it. then tell me its not worth it.

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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-12-2005, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEDWN5UP
I would love to use the brembo master cylinder but if they pull you in to tech inspection after a supersport race podium, they will fine or disqualify you for not using the stock master cylinder. ACTUALLY.....I take that back. I just read the Loudon Road Race & CCS manual and it only states calipers, wheels and forks. Wow....I feel dumb now.

Is the Brembo unit that you put on there one from Yoyodyne or one of another model like an R6? I'm thinking about just putting a production radial mount on from another bike.
that is why i can run MWSS with my brembo...ya gotta read the rule book :)

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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-10-2005, 10:37 AM
 
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I'm not a racer... I just ride my bike on the road as if I were. My unqualified opinion is that the stock brakes are obviously adequate. Anything that can stop you from the bike's top speed all the way down to 0 at the maximum tire adhesion is going to work on the track. Stockers will easily endo the bike at any speed. If you want more braking power, I'm confused.

The best suggestion is to tighten up the stuff you have. New lines, performance pads (do they exist?)... ceramic pads would eliminate a lot of extra heat if they make them. If the brakes ever start feeling soft, then you know that you could use new ones.

Finally, I do have some race experience, just not on a bike. But this will all apply...

the correct braking technique you use when racing should have you barely using the brakes at all. Engine braking, smooth shifting, and smooth entry and exit from turn are all you need. Some motorcycle racing schools actually require riders to take many laps without using the brakes at all. Not surprisingly, lap times for new race riders are often the same whether they are using brakes or not... some of that is because riders new to the track are not as comfortable with a high corner entry speed, some is because slow engine braking won't kill your lap times nearly as much as bad braking.

If you get new brakes, careful getting on too hard before turns... or god forbid, hitting the front brake in a turn.

Oh... and I forgot who said it, but seriously... save your money for tires.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyshowtime
well it's about that time to get some new rotors for racing,so my question is are the OEM rotors good enough cause i could get a cheaper pair off ebay or should i get some other brand name and spend some real money and if so which ones would you recommend for racing.

Cheers and thanks in advance
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-10-2005, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEDWN5UP
I would love to use the brembo master cylinder but if they pull you in to tech inspection after a supersport race podium, they will fine or disqualify you for not using the stock master cylinder. ACTUALLY.....I take that back. I just read the Loudon Road Race & CCS manual and it only states calipers, wheels and forks. Wow....I feel dumb now.

Is the Brembo unit that you put on there one from Yoyodyne or one of another model like an R6? I'm thinking about just putting a production radial mount on from another bike.

sorry took me 3 months to reply eric....

i got my brembo from fred. what a HUGE difference the thing makes. You wont get the same feel out of a production unit off of another bike. Theyre completely different. while they may be a radial cylinder, the ratios are different. try mine out next season.

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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-10-2005, 04:35 PM
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Where to start.....

I Want more braking power. I go as fast as I possibly can in the fast sections, and stay on the gas as long and as hard as I can. Late braking is crucial for passing, overtaking and blocking in turns. The harder and later I can brake the better. This goes for any section of the track.

Well I hope youre stuff is tight or it won't work. I already have direct thread superbike lines. I have race pads. Need more pressure through the lines to the clampers. thats where the master cyclinder comes in.

If the brakes start feeling soft it means that you have either A) Boiled the brake fluid or B) You have air in the lines and the heat and pressure has made the lever mushy. Either one will cause brake fade, which can be quite dangerous while braking for a turn after just doing 160 down the front staright at VIR.

Braking for auto racing is vastly different than motorcycle racing. You are dealing with forces in a different way. There is no trail braking in auto racing and you are moving 1800 lbs (or more) versus 250-450 lbs of machinery. Smooth entry and exit go without saying but if you rely on engine braking you will be at the back of the pack.

Mladin's words when asked by someone on how to get around daytona the fastest, he said, Less Brake, More gas.

While of course staying on the gas all the time, or hardly touching the brakes is best, you can't deny the fact that you need excellent brakes when competing. Mladin still sports radial mount mono-block calipers on his superbike. Look at the 125 GP bikes. Same deal with Ohlins superbike gas charged 8K$ forks. When you need brakes you want to have them there to stop you like a brick wall if you need them to. And in some cases, especially those of safety, good brakes can be a matter of crashing, getting involved in a crash going on in front of you or avoiding a bad situation.

Save money for tires. I would like to but I burn through tires faster than I can actually save for them. Thank god for contingency. It doesnt offset the entire cost but every 5 races or so I get enough for a set, granted I win or take a podim spot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drmikegallant
Stockers will easily endo the bike at any speed. If you want more braking power, I'm confused.

The best suggestion is to tighten up the stuff you have. New lines, performance pads (do they exist?)... ceramic pads would eliminate a lot of extra heat if they make them.

If the brakes ever start feeling soft, then you know that you could use new ones.

Finally, I do have some race experience, just not on a bike. But this will all apply...

the correct braking technique you use when racing should have you barely using the brakes at all. Engine braking, smooth shifting, and smooth entry and exit from turn are all you need.

Oh... and I forgot who said it, but seriously... save your money for tires.

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