Stripping the wire harness... - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-22-2005, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Stripping the wire harness...

I was wondering if its worth the trouble of taking off all of the wires you dont need for a track bike?

If it is? what all can I take off?
On the headlight harness... what wires do I need to keep that come out of the cluster.. or do I just cut all of the wires having anything to do with the lights... I already took off my left thumb controls.... only thing I kept on that was the clutch switch...

I really dont want start cutting and then have to solder stuff back on just to make it work I rather do it right the first time...

Thanks
Matthew
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2005, 12:45 AM
 
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I just disconnected the wiring from the headlights and left everything else there. I started messing with all of what you are wanting to do and somehow stopped my tach from working. After that I just got a new wiring harness and left everything alone. I just finshed tonight making the bike keyless.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2005, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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Yea, i did the keyless too but it didnt work and I was trying to figure out why and the diode was BAD LOL last thing I checked.. soo I ordered some hopefully Ill get them in the next couple of weeks.....

Matthew
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2005, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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anyone else with input?

thanks
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-23-2005, 10:25 PM
 
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I took the entire bike down to the frame and eliminated anything not necessary on the way back up... of course, I'm not right.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2005, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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can the radiatior fan go bye bye? or should I keep it... that is the only thing I havent taken off yet.. im keeping the kickstand on right now ... I think that would just make it easier for me... but other the that all I have is the wire harness any pointers on that?

any ways to light the subframe???

Thanks
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2005, 09:07 AM
 
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The radiator fan can and SHOULD go bye-bye. It is just begging to get pushed into the radiator and jack it up should you go down. Just remember that you can't sit idle too long. If it's just a track bike and you don't intend to race you need not take it too seriously. I was going to make a carbon subframe before my life was shaken up by a divorce, but you can also weld up an aluminum one. The aluminum idea is better for crashing, but obviously carbon is cooler... but it will likely shatter in a crash.
On the harness, you can eliminate all that headlight stuff, but you need to keep the bank angle sensor or get a jet-ski type kill switch. If you want to get super trick you can eliminate the charging and starting systems for a savings of about 12 pounds, but you'll have to push it and plug it into a charger when not riding it. The PAIR valve that is just in front of the airbox can be ditched, it does nothing useful and takes air from your motor. Plug the hole in the airbox where it enters.

Taking a bike down to the frame and learning while you rebuild / modify is a great winter project. It keeps you from insanity during the months when you can't ride.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2005, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the info.... and yea its just a track only bike right now.. im not racing it.. or planning on it, i just have it torn down and want to take as much stock crap off i can now...

Thanks alot
Matthew
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-24-2005, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCSEX122
The radiator fan can and SHOULD go bye-bye. It is just begging to get pushed into the radiator and jack it up should you go down. Just remember that you can't sit idle too long. If it's just a track bike and you don't intend to race you need not take it too seriously. I was going to make a carbon subframe before my life was shaken up by a divorce, but you can also weld up an aluminum one. The aluminum idea is better for crashing, but obviously carbon is cooler... but it will likely shatter in a crash.
On the harness, you can eliminate all that headlight stuff, but you need to keep the bank angle sensor or get a jet-ski type kill switch. If you want to get super trick you can eliminate the charging and starting systems for a savings of about 12 pounds, but you'll have to push it and plug it into a charger when not riding it. The PAIR valve that is just in front of the airbox can be ditched, it does nothing useful and takes air from your motor. Plug the hole in the airbox where it enters.

Taking a bike down to the frame and learning while you rebuild / modify is a great winter project. It keeps you from insanity during the months when you can't ride.
i've got my first race coming up and i got rid of my bank angle sensor,so do i need one, cause if i do then i need to get it back on,
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-25-2005, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCSEX122
The PAIR valve that is just in front of the airbox can be ditched, it does nothing useful and takes air from your motor. Plug the hole in the airbox where it enters.

Taking a bike down to the frame and learning while you rebuild / modify is a great winter project. It keeps you from insanity during the months when you can't ride.
Since my bike has been track only for a while, might as well strip it down.
What does the PAIR valve do?
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-25-2005, 10:17 PM
 
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tonyshowtime --> Well, it depends. By principle I'm firmly AGAINST bank angle sensors. Anything that will malfunction and turn off my motor at full lean isn't my friend. Problem is that without it there's nothing to turn your motor off when you go down. This will lead to oil starvation and bearing failure. I raced without it, but when I went down I was usually running for the bike before I was even done sliding. You can imagine a crash where that's not possible and your motor could be damaged. I had intended to get a jet-ski kill switch, but decided it would hinder my riding. I've now learned to deal with it and for the most part they work fine. Most times there's a problem it is with a certain model and I haven't heard any going bad on a RR.

gbord--> The pair valve attaches to the R side (I think) of the airbox and then to the valve cover. It takes fresh air from the airbox (that's bad, mkay) and injects it into the header to prevent a backfire... like I give a damn about that :) If anything that'd be good, it might scare someone trying to pass me.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2005, 03:26 PM
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Sounds good. Next time I'm in there, it's coming out!
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