OK, this is exactly what I needed. Thanks to all, and WAY MORE to come!!!
First of all: I have no idea about how I would get into an event in phoenix. Here in Alaska, you just show up and pay a few bucks and we get saturday and sunday, about 7 hours on sat and 6 or so on sunday. Its a 3.5 mile, 58 turn track, 1/2 mile back straight, big sets of sweepers and technical portions as well. I don't know what it's going to be like on a track half that size. Head to Head racing will be new for me also. There were several times that packs of us would take off and do a litle follow the leader, and leader changed a few times but of course we're not allowed to RACE during practice laps. Race laps are timed, each racer starting 20 seconds behind the last. The only time you can really push or get pushed is if you catch up with one of your boys in front of you and do it for bragging type shite.
Frame sliders, clip-ons, spool sliders,case covers are necessary, thank you.
I've grown particularly fond of the gilles rearsets, Price isn't bad at 429... all replacement parts available. I don't mind spending a little extra to get the nice stuff. What I'm really after is something that is FULLY ADJUSTABLE, up high and back. I'm 6'4" and I weight about 170. Yeah, I'm a little thin... Anyway I scrape the peg on the right side pretty consistently and I think if they were up alot farther and a few cm back, i'd be in heaven as long as the action of the shift linkage wasn't compromised.
I've been on the edge about the rear shock. I don't know anyone who knows what the hell they're doing around here so i see it as a usless item simply because I won't be able to get the maximum performance out of it on my own, just a waste for me. ...BUT>>> Since I see so many people suggest it, I think I'll go a head and do it. I would lean towards an Ohlins, but that's just because I've read great things about their products. I understand penske makes a competitive shock also, anyone with experience please advise!!!
520 chain/sprocket is absolute, I don't want to limit my bikes' gearing so I'll get a 15 and a 16, then for the rear I'll get the 43,44,45,46. That should cover most everything, just have to make sure the chains for each combination are cut and available for quick change.
Any contacts anyone has for experts in something (ie. suspension, fuel mapping, etc.) would be appreciated. I'm more than willing to do do all the work that I am physicaly able to do. But when it comes to that type of stuff, I would rather pay someone who knows what they're doing to take care of it and maybe learn something while it's getting done.
??????????120/180 or 120/190 ??????
I easily use all the tire in the rear (180) and maybe a 1cm unused strip on the front tire. I've messed with tire pressure. Started at 32 front 28 rear (cold) felt a little weird so we went up two in the rear, and eventually went to 30 in the front and 28 in the rear. Would I benefit from a 190? I'm a pretty good cornerer, as are all RR riders, and I can drag my knee around most turns that i have the necessary entry speed and the right line.M stock suspension has been adjusted to my weight and overall input while riding. I'm not the "drag a knee" type that does it for the cameras, I have a fundamentally correct posture and seating position, and I also have really long legs, so I can place my knee on the ground when i feel its necessary to take a corner fast and hard through the apex and on out, it eliminates the back tire from sliding out when I gas it through a corner. The turns here at the track in alaska allow alot of downshifting and braking, with numerous wide sweepers and a few quick chicanes, there are a couple of slow hairpin type turns that EVERYONE has a different line with and there are a couple higher speed (80-110) corners that can be a challenge when negotiating within a pack of not too experienced racers (myself included). there aren't many places to pass, it's a simple track, easy to remember brake markers, where I'm shifting, and the line just flows after the first two or three warm up laps. The point of all that was to say that the style of racing is different down in the lower 48, shorter tracks, well funded teams, and unless you know people who matter, your trackdays will be limited to every other weekend... sometimes not. I see it necessary to spend every available moment on the racetrack if you really want to be good at it. I know that I have a long way to go, please... I'm an adult ok?... I get it.
So, after the purchase of the bike I have 5-7k to work with in mods. I can't think of anything else... other than little stuff like fluids, stands, tire warmers, tires and whatever else I need to function at the track if something goes wrong. My 03 can always be kept as a "B Bike". Its track worthy as it is, less some suspension work and plastics
WHAT is my first step???
Well, when the bike arrives in a day or two it will be stripped down pretty bare as some OEM parts will be replaced with aftermarket pieces (rear shock, triple clamp, plastics, etc.)
Then all unnecessary parts will be taken, cut, peeled, or melted off. I'll start from there and build my machine