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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-12-2005, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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05 600RR Race Project HELP

I'm building a race bike and would like to post the progress as I go, that way, when I screw up, I can get some help from some of our well informed members.
I intend on doing all the work myself, but I'm no expert. So I'm going to start at the very beginning and go from there. I appreciate any input anyone has, especially those who have already made some of the mistakes. Any suggestions od tips are welcome. Thanks in advance.

So here's the plan:
Own an 03
Bought an 05 600RR last week.
Budget looks good.
Want to competitivley race in the phoenix/tempe/socal area.
ANYONE IN PHOENIX AREA RACE??????
Have a pretty good idea of what I'm looking for.

Here's what I've decided for parts

Arata or Jardine Exhaust (any word on a jardine full system?)
BMC Filter
Gilles Rearsets
Ohlins Fork Springs/valves
Scotts Damper
PCIII
Dynojet Ignition Module
Forged Alum Wheels
Graves faring stay
Havent decided on Brake rotors-NEED SUGGESTIONS
Steel Braided brake lines
RK or Renthal Sprokets
DID Chain
If anyone does custom maps/tuning, please let me know.

ANY INPUT IS APPRECIATED
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 09:11 AM
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Depending on which class you intend to run, I would skip the rim and rotor upgrade. In most organizations that would limit you to superbike. While lighter rotating mass improves handling the mods are usually really expensive too. Just something to consider.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 10:02 AM
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Frame sliders, clip ons, and rear suspension should be pretty high on your list. I'd worry about the exhaust last. Get it crash ready first, then suspension ready. Might also consider engine case covers. Crashing sucks and will ruin a weekend. Spares are also a good thing. Just starting out, getting the bike handling and set up for you is more important than engine mods, but that is just my opinion.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:06 AM
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i wrote replies underneath your parts list
Quote:
Originally Posted by joshsss

Here's what I've decided for parts

Arata or Jardine Exhaust (any word on a jardine full system?)
Arata is the best performance power of any full system

BMC Filter
not needed, but okay

Gilles Rearsets
Too expensive for racing. buy either vortex or woodcraft. less expensive and eaiser to get parts

Ohlins Fork Springs/valves
good stuff. Rear shock as important as doing up the front. I love my Penske. Also in way of suspension have the bike set up by GMD for proper geometry

Scotts Damper
good stuff

PCIII
good stuff, my arata worked well with dan kyle map. I eventually got a custom map

Dynojet Ignition Module
not needed, but if ya got the $$$ why not

Forged Alum Wheels
only superbike legal, not super sport legal. EMA sells PVM wheels which are nice

Graves faring stay
got one as well

Havent decided on Brake rotors-NEED SUGGESTIONS
brake tech http://www.braketech.com


Steel Braided brake lines
good, plus brake pads. i like ferodo sinter grip

RK or Renthal Sprokets
15/45 gearing is a good starting place

DID Chain
520 chain and sprockets


ANY INPUT IS APPRECIATED
woodcraft frame sliders
sharskinz bodywork is the best for fit and finish
engine covers are required by most race organizations. again go with Woodcraft

CCS EX#100

Last edited by BigTuna; 11-13-2005 at 11:08 AM.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tornado bait
Depending on which class you intend to run, I would skip the rim and rotor upgrade. In most organizations that would limit you to superbike. While lighter rotating mass improves handling the mods are usually really expensive too. Just something to consider.
rotors should not make a difference as long as they are the same size rotors as stock

CCS EX#100
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:20 AM
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Great advice so far.

Make a realistic budget now for what the season will cost you. A typical weekend can easily cost a thousand dollars or more and if you crash that number can go up exponentially.

Look at the contingency list for your race organization and use those parts this will help out tremendously.

Have alot of spares or a B bike.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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OK, this is exactly what I needed. Thanks to all, and WAY MORE to come!!!

First of all: I have no idea about how I would get into an event in phoenix. Here in Alaska, you just show up and pay a few bucks and we get saturday and sunday, about 7 hours on sat and 6 or so on sunday. Its a 3.5 mile, 58 turn track, 1/2 mile back straight, big sets of sweepers and technical portions as well. I don't know what it's going to be like on a track half that size. Head to Head racing will be new for me also. There were several times that packs of us would take off and do a litle follow the leader, and leader changed a few times but of course we're not allowed to RACE during practice laps. Race laps are timed, each racer starting 20 seconds behind the last. The only time you can really push or get pushed is if you catch up with one of your boys in front of you and do it for bragging type shite.

Frame sliders, clip-ons, spool sliders,case covers are necessary, thank you.

I've grown particularly fond of the gilles rearsets, Price isn't bad at 429... all replacement parts available. I don't mind spending a little extra to get the nice stuff. What I'm really after is something that is FULLY ADJUSTABLE, up high and back. I'm 6'4" and I weight about 170. Yeah, I'm a little thin... Anyway I scrape the peg on the right side pretty consistently and I think if they were up alot farther and a few cm back, i'd be in heaven as long as the action of the shift linkage wasn't compromised.

I've been on the edge about the rear shock. I don't know anyone who knows what the hell they're doing around here so i see it as a usless item simply because I won't be able to get the maximum performance out of it on my own, just a waste for me. ...BUT>>> Since I see so many people suggest it, I think I'll go a head and do it. I would lean towards an Ohlins, but that's just because I've read great things about their products. I understand penske makes a competitive shock also, anyone with experience please advise!!!

520 chain/sprocket is absolute, I don't want to limit my bikes' gearing so I'll get a 15 and a 16, then for the rear I'll get the 43,44,45,46. That should cover most everything, just have to make sure the chains for each combination are cut and available for quick change.

Any contacts anyone has for experts in something (ie. suspension, fuel mapping, etc.) would be appreciated. I'm more than willing to do do all the work that I am physicaly able to do. But when it comes to that type of stuff, I would rather pay someone who knows what they're doing to take care of it and maybe learn something while it's getting done.


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!NEW QUESTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
??????????120/180 or 120/190 ??????
I easily use all the tire in the rear (180) and maybe a 1cm unused strip on the front tire. I've messed with tire pressure. Started at 32 front 28 rear (cold) felt a little weird so we went up two in the rear, and eventually went to 30 in the front and 28 in the rear. Would I benefit from a 190? I'm a pretty good cornerer, as are all RR riders, and I can drag my knee around most turns that i have the necessary entry speed and the right line.M stock suspension has been adjusted to my weight and overall input while riding. I'm not the "drag a knee" type that does it for the cameras, I have a fundamentally correct posture and seating position, and I also have really long legs, so I can place my knee on the ground when i feel its necessary to take a corner fast and hard through the apex and on out, it eliminates the back tire from sliding out when I gas it through a corner. The turns here at the track in alaska allow alot of downshifting and braking, with numerous wide sweepers and a few quick chicanes, there are a couple of slow hairpin type turns that EVERYONE has a different line with and there are a couple higher speed (80-110) corners that can be a challenge when negotiating within a pack of not too experienced racers (myself included). there aren't many places to pass, it's a simple track, easy to remember brake markers, where I'm shifting, and the line just flows after the first two or three warm up laps. The point of all that was to say that the style of racing is different down in the lower 48, shorter tracks, well funded teams, and unless you know people who matter, your trackdays will be limited to every other weekend... sometimes not. I see it necessary to spend every available moment on the racetrack if you really want to be good at it. I know that I have a long way to go, please... I'm an adult ok?... I get it.

So, after the purchase of the bike I have 5-7k to work with in mods. I can't think of anything else... other than little stuff like fluids, stands, tire warmers, tires and whatever else I need to function at the track if something goes wrong. My 03 can always be kept as a "B Bike". Its track worthy as it is, less some suspension work and plastics

WHAT is my first step???

Well, when the bike arrives in a day or two it will be stripped down pretty bare as some OEM parts will be replaced with aftermarket pieces (rear shock, triple clamp, plastics, etc.)
Then all unnecessary parts will be taken, cut, peeled, or melted off. I'll start from there and build my machine
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 07:05 PM
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If you order a shock the dealer will get you the proper spring according to your weight.

I bought my shock from GMD Computrack. Call Mike Martire at 203 876 2477. He can get you a shock and put the best base settings in it that he can based on your weight etc and then you can mess with it some. Mike is a good guy, if you call him tell him "Fish" referred you.

When you talk to him ask him about the 190/60 rear. He and Aaron Clark (2000 Aprilia Cup Champion) are the guys that talked me into using the 190. When set up properly the 190 works much better than a 180. he can give you some feedback.

I own 15, 16, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47 and 49 tooth sprockets. i never use the 16 front and only have used the 44, 45 and 46. the 47 and 49 sit in the box.

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 09:02 PM
 
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When you get to phoenix let me know, we can race together.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 10:01 PM
 
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im not that expirenced in racing yet, but from what i have learned already, i PROMISE you the best thing that will make you quicker are braking mods, and suspension mods. I found that going to the track with a stock bike and figuring out what would make you quicker is the best thing to do. If you set up your bike with 10k in mods, and never knew how each mod made you quicker, then i feel you wasted your money. My first track day i was running 1:40's at jennings, and with brake lines, pads, steering damper and hours of practice at the twisties i ran a 1:26 my second track day on street tires. Oh and some of the mods you have you can only run in unlimited gp, and you wont stand a chance in that class w/o expirence, not even with all the nos and turbo boost you can put in 600cc :sign10:
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2005, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTuna
If you order a shock the dealer will get you the proper spring according to your weight.

I bought my shock from GMD Computrack. Call Mike Martire at 203 876 2477. He can get you a shock and put the best base settings in it that he can based on your weight etc and then you can mess with it some. Mike is a good guy, if you call him tell him "Fish" referred you.

When you talk to him ask him about the 190/60 rear. He and Aaron Clark (2000 Aprilia Cup Champion) are the guys that talked me into using the 190. When set up properly the 190 works much better than a 180. he can give you some feedback.

I own 15, 16, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47 and 49 tooth sprockets. i never use the 16 front and only have used the 44, 45 and 46. the 47 and 49 sit in the box.
First of all, thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it. I'll be calling Mike at GMD tommorow.

I'm sure I'll have to change my gearing when I switch to the shorter tracks. But I feel like the front tire comes up too easily with the -1 in the front. I guess I'll just have to figure it out when the time comes.

I think I understand the physics of using a 190 but my lack of experience requires me to ask someone who knows, thanks again for that.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2005, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66RRJOE
When you get to phoenix let me know, we can race together.
How are things down there? can't wait to get on a track. One of my friends moved down there about a month ago, he calls me yesterday and when I pick up the phone I hear bikes, alot of them. He gets on the phone and says, "Guess what I'm doing FOCKER?" and then hangs up. I was so pissed! He calls me about 30 mins later, he was at a Firebird West trackday. Right after he called me, karma kicked in, he crashed on his first lap What an ass hole!!!

Anyway... how available are the tracks for ametuer level racers and what kind of racing circuits are around? Please let me know. Thanks!
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2005, 12:54 AM
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If you really want to have fun and want to compete.

Do the Full system
power commander
Upgrade brakes & fork springs
rearsets (rr stocks are very low)

Save the rest for Tires(biggest part of buget) and just in case cash. Stock bikes can do a lot more than you think. I would also say a race weekend is going to range $1000- $1500.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2005, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SquidKid
im not that expirenced in racing yet, but from what i have learned already, i PROMISE you the best thing that will make you quicker are braking mods, and suspension mods. I found that going to the track with a stock bike and figuring out what would make you quicker is the best thing to do. If you set up your bike with 10k in mods, and never knew how each mod made you quicker, then i feel you wasted your money. My first track day i was running 1:40's at jennings, and with brake lines, pads, steering damper and hours of practice at the twisties i ran a 1:26 my second track day on street tires. Oh and some of the mods you have you can only run in unlimited gp, and you wont stand a chance in that class w/o expirence, not even with all the nos and turbo boost you can put in 600cc :sign10:
OK, my story time. I'm an amatuer rider. I can admit that. I've put about 4000 miles on my RR and about 2000 on an 04 RR. The first time I got on a racetrack I had only been riding a few months. I FELL IN LOVE!! Yes I was a very novice rider, but I understood the rules of the track and I know how to control my bike. I rode VERY VERY slow my first two days. 3.5 mile track, 58 turns, I was not trying to wreck my new bike, or myself for that matter. I was timed by a friend at 4:10. The next weekend, I rode a 3:30. Slowly but surely I learned more about my bike and my riding style and was able to figure out what needed to be changed. By my 4th weekend I broke the 3:00 mark. I know this means nothing to you, but humor me. I went back every three weeks until now. I feel like the modificaitons I plan to do to this bike will benefit me as a racer as well as the quality of my machine. I plan to start at the bottom, I have no desire to jump into anything I'm not ready for. ****, I haven't even raced head to head yet... I have alot to learn...

What mods will d/q me from riding in an amatuer class? I really don't have any way of researching the racing orginizations in phoenix (maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?) If anyone has any info please gived me a shout.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-15-2005, 10:00 AM
 
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just the wheels and rotors are the only thing that will d/q from what i see. by no means am i tell you not to get these mods, im just saying put it on one by one and figure out how it made you quicker. I went to jennings the first time thinking an exhaust and powercommander would make me quicker.... i ran 1:38s all day which is horrible. i returned 2 months later with a steering damper and brake lines and pads, and ran a 1:24 with consistant 1:26's. since i was on street tires i ended up crashing out, but now i know race tires will make me quicker, or more consistant next time.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-17-2005, 03:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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Yeah the suspension mods are a must. When I figured out how to correctly set up my stock suspension, I dropped about 20 seconds off my time. .
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-17-2005, 10:23 AM
 
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You really need to find some info on the org you'd be racing with (rule book etc). I believe the AFM (club in Cali) does not allow exhaust mods in production class.....sooo, the best bet is to find the rule book for the club you'd be racing with and read it.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-17-2005, 10:48 PM
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Josh,if you need some help working on the bike,i'm a pretty good wrench and more than willing to help.I also have a few contacts down in the states to get parts at a decent price and I know how to get the best shipping prices.

Let me know and I'll PM you my #.

Why do the vendors want us to buy there stuff when they never have it in stock?
:book1: One thing leads to another and the next thing you know,your bike is a piece of neglected junk. :book1:
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 11-24-2005, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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anyone know of an aftermarket top triple clamp? stock is kinda boring and vortex is... vortex.
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