Racers, how did you? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2006, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
 
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Racers, how did you?

How did you know how to install your new forks after having them re-sprung?
By installing I mean how much did you have to race your forks on the triple? I got stiffer springs on my 600rr and when I install them to factory specs the front end was sitting way high. Any info will help put ny bike back together. Thanks
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 01:15 AM
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Hey Niko,
When I got my forks resprung and revalved, only the internals change, so you should put it back together without any issues. On my 2005 600rr, theres a thin, metal ring that goes on the fork that acts as a stopper for the upper triple clamp. If you have an older model, it may be different. You can try searching on google for "2003 600rr manual" and get an electronic copy of the service manual if you don't have it.

I would read the service manual, it's got everything there for order of installation as well as torque specifications for the bolts. Let me know if you need more help.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 08:24 AM
 
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I had my forks revalved over the weekend by GMD and the first thing I noticed when I went out in practice session was that my bike did not want to go where I wanted to go. For example, im looking at my line for the corner and looking at the point of my exit for the next corner or straight away, what happened was the bike was trailing and wanted to go STRAIGHT! At first I thought it was just me and maybe i wasnt having any confidence in myself but I noticed it in every turns on the first lap, then got off and went to GMD and explain this to them and that now that my forks were revalved, they sit a little higher. Since I do not have an aftermarket rear shock, I had to raise the forks in the front and that solved the problem. I raised mine by 5mm.

I should be getting the Ohlins anytime this week.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 01:03 PM
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I wasn't aware of that, I will have to double check with my suspension tuner.

From my understanding, since the springs are stiffer, more force will be needed to compress the springs. Quicker or easier turn in is achieved by changing the geometry or angle the bike points down. Since the OEM springs are usually too soft for the average rider, when braking before or into a turn, the bike's angle is pretty steep, allowing for easier/quicker turn in.

Stiffer springs will effect this angle now, so it will tend to be more difficult to turn in. papo600RR's solution to raise the forks in the triple is essentially making the bike's nose point more downwards, allowing for easier/quicker turn in.

A couple things you can do to adjust is to make it turn in easier:

1) Adjust fork compression to make it softer so the front-end can compress (turning compression counter-clockwise)

2) Raise forks above the triple clamp. Do this by 5mm at a time. quasi888 did this after redoing his suspension to test the settings. From what I last read, he put the geometry back to the stock settings. You may try to PM him to get his thoughts.

3) Reduce rear preload, this will raise the rear of the bike, essentially making the bike point downward more (this may effect exit on a turn since the rear may squat more, always make some small increments)

4) Softer springs. Of course do this if everything else doesn't seem to work. It's possible your weight changed or a softer spring rate was needed. My tuner mentioned to me that Jake Zemke opted for softer springs than what was usually recommended in the rear because it was too stiff and didn't feel comfortable to him.


Of course, I'm still learning. Keep on reading various resources and see where most of the items match. Try some settings also once you understand what the adjustments are supposed to do. Good luck.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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All this is real good info. I just looked at the box that Traxxion sent back to me with all of the stock parts off my bike. The spring is a .925 and for my weight it should have been a .90. So I see know and kind of understand why I had to move the forks up in the triple. One more thing that the paperwork had is a 13mm of internal pre-load. Does that add to the moving up the forks too? The bike handles alot better now that I have moved the forks up. So now, how far is too much? I drove the bike and hit the brakes hard and I have a 5mm space between the lower triple and the zip tie at the fork. The pre load is set a 3 lines. Would that be ok as lond as it does not bottom out?
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 09:33 PM
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you're good to go if it doesn't bottom out, has good turn in, and it feels good to you. I personally don't know enough about the characteristics of preload to know what it does or doesn't do exactly feel and application wise but I know that in general it is increasing/decreasing tension on the spring and it adjusts ride height because of this.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2006, 10:20 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by predikt
I wasn't aware of that, I will have to double check with my suspension tuner.


Stiffer springs will effect this angle now, so it will tend to be more difficult to turn in. papo600RR's solution to raise the forks in the triple is essentially making the bike's nose point more downwards, allowing for easier/quicker turn in.

A couple things you can do to adjust is to make it turn in easier:

1) Adjust fork compression to make it softer so the front-end can compress (turning compression counter-clockwise)

2) Raise forks above the triple clamp. Do this by 5mm at a time. quasi888 did this after redoing his suspension to test the settings. From what I last read, he put the geometry back to the stock settings. You may try to PM him to get his thoughts.

3) Reduce rear preload, this will raise the rear of the bike, essentially making the bike point downward more (this may effect exit on a turn since the rear may squat more, always make some small increments)

4) Softer springs. Of course do this if everything else doesn't seem to work. It's possible your weight changed or a softer spring rate was needed. My tuner mentioned to me that Jake Zemke opted for softer springs than what was usually recommended in the rear because it was too stiff and didn't feel comfortable to him.


Of course, I'm still learning. Keep on reading various resources and see where most of the items match. Try some settings also once you understand what the adjustments are supposed to do. Good luck.
Oh I also forgot to add in my post that my front tire is a PRc (Michelin) and it is a taller tire than the pirelli I had. This also made my bike sit high in addition to the revalved forks.
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