[HOWTO] Kleen Air Mod - 600RR.net
03-06 RR Modifications 2003, 2004, 2005 and 2006 Modifications

 
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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[HOWTO] Kleen Air Mod

The reason for a "kleen air modification" is to stop over-flow oil from getting into the air box and eventually getting into the throttle bodies in the event of a tip-over or from wheelies. It also can help with popping on deceleration with aftermarket exhausts. Since I had my bike torn down to replace the air filter I figured I would get in and do it also taking a few pictures.

I connected the crankcase breather to the reed valves which is supposed to promote more HP due to increased exhaust scavenging from the pressurised air going through the system that the kleen valve used.

I also cleaned all the old dirty air / oil out of the air box lid too so it is nice and clean ready for the new filter, and no more oil due to the mod!

This how to should be the same for 2003 - 2006 CBR600RR however there may be some differences so this is strictly for the 2003 CBR600RR without the SMOG system that I believe the CA spec bikes have.

Parts
Tee Connector (I got a 16mm one)
2 x Vacuum Caps (I believe it is 5/8")

Tools
Allen Keys
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Sockets

1. Remove Plastics
I removed the seat, top bolt in the mid fairings / ram air covers. This allows you to then remove the tank cover as well without having to remove the whole mid fairing.



2. Lift Tank
I removed the two bolts for the tank then lifted it slightly and removed the hoses underneath. I then propped the tank up with a snap strap running to the tail of the bike.



3. ECU / Wiring / Fuel Rail
You then need to remove the ECU/ECM and unclip the wiring and move it out of the way to be able to remove the rest of the airbox. You will also need to remove the fuel rail hoses from each end too, remember to be careful as some fuel may leak out so have some rags handy. Undo the 10 screws from the air box lid to remove it and this will expose the air filter. Remove the 3 screws and pull out the air filter. These screws stay in the plastic edging of the air filter.





4. Velocity Stacks
Remove the 6 screws holding in the velocity stacks then you should be able to lift the bottom of the air box out. There is hoses connected underneath the front and on the right hand side which you need to disconnect too (circled in red).



4. Remove PAIR Solenoid and Plumbing
Remove all the plumbing for the reed valves / PAIR system and the hose from the crankcase breather (circled in red).



5. Kleen Air Mod
Use the tee piece and connect the reed valve hoses to each side. Cut a piece of hose for the crankcase breather and connected it to the bottom of the tee. Cap the two holes on the bottom of the air box where you removed the previous hoses (front and side). I didn't have vacuum caps however had some rubber feet for chair legs laying around and were the perfect size.



5. Reinstallation

I completely cleaned the inside of the airbox lid and also the throttle bodies a bit before I reinstalled everything however installation is simply the reverse. You will have one plug left over that previously connected to the PAIR solenoid valve. Just tape it up as it isn't needed anymore. Reinstall the plastics and you're done!

I wont be held responsible for any issues if you decide to do this mod or any failed emissions tests.

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Last edited by OzMoto; 12-30-2015 at 05:05 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 10:38 AM
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Where did you read that you were supposed to connect the crankcase breather to the other two with reeds? Everywhere I've seen it explained is either connect the two sides together with one line (eliminating the solenoid and other stuff), or buy the block-off plates and the crankcase breather still goes where it did normally. I did the block-off plates and left the crankcase breather as it was.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 11:32 AM
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you'll still be pumping air into the exhaust here, so I hope you've already tuned it . and I'm not sure how I feel about having a check valve on the crank case breather.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
you'll still be pumping air into the exhaust here, so I hope you've already tuned it . and I'm not sure how I feel about having a check valve on the crank case breather.
Who's still pumping air into the exhaust, me or Juzman? I'm trying to figure out if I was supposed to remove my crankcase breather too lol.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Money View Post
Where did you read that you were supposed to connect the crankcase breather to the other two with reeds?
Most of the f4i forums I've seen it done like that.

Here is a pic: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...Ik-xAr02r3wmTg

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
you'll still be pumping air into the exhaust here, so I hope you've already tuned it . and I'm not sure how I feel about having a check valve on the crank case breather.
I've not had mine tuned, from what I understood having the solenoid removed means that it is easier to tune.

Or are you meant to block off the pair valves, then keep crankcase to air box for tuning?

I mainly did this to stop the oil going into the air box, keeping the filter e.t.c. clean, not to tune it as I only have a slipon.

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After thinking about it more, you've solved the oil in the airbox problem but I don't think you've completed the kleen air portion of it. Because now instead of the solenoid controlling the air injected into the exhaust (which was pulled from the airbox after the filter), you're recirculating the crankcase air (which is released into the airbox before the filter) back into the exhaust and this is where my lack of knowledge takes over. I don't know what volume of air is coming back out of that crankcase breather and if that could throw off an A/F probe placed at the tip of your exhaust. If you connect the two valves together you've essentially capped them same as if you had used the block off plates.

Also, if the oil isn't going into your airbox anymore, its going into your exhaust and could be causing it to smoke at some point. Is the oil in the airbox bad with your bike? I've never noticed very much.

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My general understanding of this mod is that it usually goes hand in hand with the PAIR delete mod, since you're already in the area. Removing the solenoid, capping off the first airbox vent and reed valves (or linking them to each other with a hose) is the PAIR delete part which makes it so no other sources of O2 end up in the exhaust to allow for easier tuning. Then you would run a hose (or just leave it uncapped, which I don't recommend) from the crankcase breather off to the side like the other overflow hoses and cap off the second vent into the airbox to complete the Kleen air mod portion. By having the crankcase breather connected with the reed valves, you are in essence still adding a source for extra gases to mix into the exhaust stream, thus readouts are still thrown off and proper tuning is still a little tougher. The only difference here being that the air you are now injecting into the exhaust stream is coming from the crankcase rather than the airbox, so in this case you have done the Kleen air mod and essentially half of a PAIR delete. Although, the half of that pair delete you've done is only the part that involves dropping the weight of the solenoid, so the benefits of the pair delete are not actually attained here. I understand you were only out to do the kleen air mod, which you have successfully completed a variation of, but just thought I'd plug the pair delete here as well since some others were alluding to it. If I am incorrect, someone with greater and more accurate knowledge on the subject will chime in at some point.

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Originally Posted by GodZuki View Post
My general understanding of this mod is that it usually goes hand in hand with the PAIR delete mod, since you're already in the area. Removing the solenoid, capping off the first airbox vent and reed valves (or linking them to each other with a hose) is the PAIR delete part which makes it so no other sources of O2 end up in the exhaust to allow for easier tuning. Then you would run a hose (or just leave it uncapped, which I don't recommend) from the crankcase breather off to the side like the other overflow hoses and cap off the second vent into the airbox to complete the Kleen air mod portion. By having the crankcase breather connected with the reed valves, you are in essence still adding a source for extra gases to mix into the exhaust stream, thus readouts are still thrown off and proper tuning is still a little tougher. The only difference here being that the air you are now injecting into the exhaust stream is coming from the crankcase rather than the airbox, so in this case you have done the Kleen air mod and essentially half of a PAIR delete. Although, the half of that pair delete you've done is only the part that involves dropping the weight of the solenoid, so the benefits of the pair delete are not actually attained here. I understand you were only out to do the kleen air mod, which you have successfully completed a variation of, but just thought I'd plug the pair delete here as well since some others were alluding to it. If I am incorrect, someone with greater and more accurate knowledge on the subject will chime in at some point.
I've always assumed the PAIR delete and "kleen air" mod were the same thing, maybe thats where my confusion was. I only did the PAIR delete then. My air filter gets cleaned and re-oiled once or more a season anyway, so I'm not going back in for the crankcase hose.

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 06:32 PM
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a lot of people are missing the point here.



what Juzman did was connect the crank case breather to the exhaust via reed valves. the idea being that the vacuum created behind the exhaust pulses will scavenge crank case pressure and thus reduce pumping losses and "increase horsepower". of course only people who have done this will claim that. if, for whatever reason a reed valve fails (which it may, seeing as it's going to have oily air blown through it), you'd be pumping exhaust pressure into the crank case, which can cause all sorts of issues.


secondly, the crank case breather is connected to the CLEAN side of the airbox, so the oil that makes it to the airbox cannot dirty the air filter. if you are super worried about oil making it to the airbox, a simple catch can can be installed and filled with low density open cell foam to effectively demist the crankcase gasses.


it probably won't do any damage venting the crank case to the exhaust, but i really don't see the point. especially since it defeats the purpose of removing the pair system in the first place.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G Money View Post
I've always assumed the PAIR delete and "kleen air" mod were the same thing, maybe thats where my confusion was. I only did the PAIR delete then. My air filter gets cleaned and re-oiled once or more a season anyway, so I'm not going back in for the crankcase hose.
I am no expert, so I'm not going to say I'm right and you're wrong when I quite possibly could be incorrect here, but I do believe they are different mods from one another and that they simply tend to be done in tandem since you are already in that work space. That said, the part that I understand to be the kleen air mod is the part that you seem to have not done. The purpose is to prevent oil in the crankcase from going through the hose (during a lowside or if the bike completely flips over) and into the airbox, potentially causing hydro-lock. Whereas the pair delete (the part you have done already) is meant to prevent air, that is normally injected into the exhaust stream to burn excess/unburned fuel, from getting there in the first place. By blocking this you will have a more accurate O2 reading which makes tuning the bike much easier.

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I basically did a kleen air mod, not pair delete. I'm not tuning the bike, just wanted to remove hot and dirty air from the box.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
a lot of people are missing the point here.



what Juzman did was connect the crank case breather to the exhaust via reed valves. the idea being that the vacuum created behind the exhaust pulses will scavenge crank case pressure and thus reduce pumping losses and "increase horsepower". of course only people who have done this will claim that. if, for whatever reason a reed valve fails (which it may, seeing as it's going to have oily air blown through it), you'd be pumping exhaust pressure into the crank case, which can cause all sorts of issues.


secondly, the crank case breather is connected to the CLEAN side of the airbox, so the oil that makes it to the airbox cannot dirty the air filter. if you are super worried about oil making it to the airbox, a simple catch can can be installed and filled with low density open cell foam to effectively demist the crankcase gasses.


it probably won't do any damage venting the crank case to the exhaust, but i really don't see the point. especially since it defeats the purpose of removing the pair system in the first place.
You are correct. However, while the crankcase breather vents into the clean side of the airbox and the oil "misted" air won't harm anything since it already sits like this from the factory, the kleen air mod is to prevent heavy amounts of fluid oil from entering the airbox and ultimately the throttle bodies in the event of a tip or flip over and potentially causing hydro-lock. You are also correct that Juzman's current variation of the kleen air mod won't harm anything (unless a reed valve fails) and that it does in fact defeat the purpose of the pair delete with this particular setup, but, it appears to me as though Juzman was simply after the kleen air mod and a simple How-To for people interested in this specific variation of the mod and not the one that involves the pair system delete. There are other variations out there, like the one I mentioned above, where the crankcase hose (or longest hose out of the ones you remove) is routed to the side like an overflow line. By using this method you could complete the kleen air mod without affecting the pair system at all. Some choose to do only the pair delete, which involves the solenoid and its respective hoses, without even touching the crankcase hose.
That said, I have to agree that this setup shown has more cons than pros. The pair delete is not complete, the oily air could cause a reed valve to fail and the most weight possible is not saved (not much left to lose though lol). IMO, the better setup would be the overflow line routing with the reed valves either linked to each other via a hose or completely capped off, so that both the kleen air and pair delete are performed simultaneously, but that's just me.


But for those interested in a variation of only the kleen air mod, this is a good how-to write up that is simple to follow, which was the point of Juzman's how-to in the first place.

edit: I hadn't seen Juzman's post above this until just now lol. I wonder why it didn't show up for me until well after my post...weird

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-31-2015, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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IMO, the better setup would be the overflow line routing with the reed valves either linked to each other via a hose or completely capped off, so that both the kleen air and pair delete are performed simultaneously, but that's just me.
That is true, basically either cap the reed valves, or run a straight hose between them. I wasn't deleting the pairs though to tune the bike, simply kleen air.

When I pulled my box down, there was sticky / dirty oil in the lid, and looked like a section of the filter was dark / oily. My guess is wheelies e.t.c. so since I'm never going to tune the bike, doing it this way was my preference.

People that stunt with F4i's usually do it the way I have, and I have yet to see any issues from it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
but i really don't see the point.
Point is to stop oil entering the air box / throttle bodies in event of a tipover and possibly hydrolocking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
you'll still be pumping air into the exhaust here, so I hope you've already tuned it.
Haven't had it tuned (probably not going to). Simply Kleen air mod.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
and I'm not sure how I feel about having a check valve on the crank case breather.
Do you mean the reeds? Because the tee piece isn't a PCV valve, just an open tee.

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yes the reeds.


are you a stunter or something? because if you are it makes much more sense to install a catch can as opposed to dumping your crank case into the exhaust. it'll make a hell of a mess
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
yes the reeds.

are you a stunter or something? because if you are it makes much more sense to install a catch can as opposed to dumping your crank case into the exhaust. it'll make a hell of a mess
Not at all, occasional wheelies every now and then.

When I pulled my old air filter there was a brownish looking section on it (looked like oil). Figured venting the crankcase to the reeds would solve this.

Maybe I will just link the two reeds together with hose and keep the crankcase breather connected to the front of the air box.

However the way it is setup at the moment, it does feel smoother on acceleration. I'm guessing due to it not pulling through hot / oily air.

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probably not... but if it feels better so be it
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
probably not... but if it feels better so be it
So you would recommend just linking the two reed valves together with hose, and keep crank case breather on air box?

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So you would recommend just linking the two reed valves together with hose, and keep crank case breather on air box?
If you do it that way, you will have only done the PAIR system delete and no longer have the kleen air mod like you wanted. I wouldn't advise adding an oil catch to the crankcase line since that'll just add one more thing you'll have to inspect, clean, empty and maintain often (frequency depends on whether or not you're stunting/falling over).

If you can't find any reported problems from your current setup, I'd leave it alone but just inspect the connections (especially the Tee) every now and then to ensure it's all good. This inspection could be done by swinging the radiator out of the way instead of having to disassemble the airbox and lift the tank every time. If you're going to be digging it back up and moving connections around again anyway, I'd link the reeds together or cap them entirely, then leave the crankcase breather disconnected from the airbox and run the hose out and down to the side like the other overflow lines. Doing this will keep your kleen air mod intact but also add the completed PAIR delete to the mix. I know your goal was just the kleen air, not the pair delete and that you currently don't have plans to get a tune. But, if you're going to redo it, IMO you should complete the pair delete so that if in the future you decide to get a tune, the delete will have already been done. This is all strictly my opinion and the decision is ultimately yours to make.

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Last edited by GodZuki; 01-08-2016 at 02:50 PM.
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-08-2016, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GodZuki View Post
If you're going to be digging it back up and moving connections around again anyway, I'd link the reeds together or cap them entirely, then leave the crankcase breather disconnected from the airbox and run the hose out and down to the side like the other overflow lines.
Yeah, that is what I figured I would do (in the future). Right now, I was only after kleen air. :)

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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up going back in the other day, and removing all plumbing. Capped the two reed valves (didn't open them and remove anything). Then run the crankcase breather back to the airbox.

I figured if I don't drop the bike, all will be well and wheelies shouldn't cause any issues what-so-ever unless I dropped it.

Ride carefully - You are invisible.
FB | YT

I'd rather be next to a rider that can maintain a controlled wheelie than a muppet on their phone.

Current: 2012 Street Triple R
Sold: 2001 NSR150SP | 2012 CBR250R
RIP: 2003 CBR600RR

DIY:
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