do you really need any? i mean, this is really a plug and play kind of install. unplug this, plug that in, then the other one. the way they have the harnesses set up you'd be an idiot to hook up the wrong injector in the wrong order.
if the main harness has to be moved, you're doing it wrong. that's the idea!
foreword: know what you must do. if you want to make this painless, take the airbox off. this involves taking the ECU off, remove the upper injector connectors, remove the upper fuel rail line (may be pressurized a little, and the rail will have fuel in it so be prepared for spray and leaks), the IAT Sensor. i highly recommend taking the upper lid off (the one that gains you access to the air filter) to make removing the injector connectors easier. Use a #2 for all airbox lid screws. now remove the upper injector connectors. they can be stubborn so use a flat bladed screwdriver to help pry them off. do not rely on the prybar to do all the work, it's just there to help you budge them off. DO NOT PULL ON WIRES the clips that hold those wires into the connector are stupid small and will tear right out of them. always pull on the connector body! remove the top lid then the center cover. then use a #3 philips screwdriver to remove the Velocity Stacks. you wont be able to remove the bottom portion yet. there's a sensor affixed to the very bottom of the airbox that is impossible to reach by normal means. you can either take the hose off the sensor (which may break it, it's only plastic) or you can remove it, and, like i did, never reattach it again. it does not need to be attached there! it just makes for a big pain in the ass later on in life. then remove your PAIR valve line from the right side (if you still have that useless thing) and the Crank Case Ventilator tube from the front of the lower half. It's ok, you can pull a little, they give nicely. Other than that, stay tidy, plan your route before you execute. i've had to take off every connector at least 9 times to drive the point home. OH, and there is a LOT of **** on your bike you DON'T NEED. i have trimmed my bike down as best i could to make access easier and fit a little looser. i HIGHLY recommend ya'll do the same.
So my installation notes:
1: RPM is the IPG or Ignition Pulse Generator sensor. also commonly referred to as the Crank Position Sensor. it is on the right side of the engine and is a 2P Red connector.
2: VS Sensor connector is under a hood. peel that back to expose the 3P natural connector. it's a big one, can't miss it.
3: attach the ground wire to the frame. not the engine, the frame. or the neg. battery terminal. whatever, just don't attach it to the motor, k?
4: DO NOT
forget to reattach the upper fuel rail. Please
take your time putting everything back together. I know it can be hard to take your time when you're finishing up, but this is for your own good. the last thing you want to do is forget to reattach it, put everything back on, fire it up, have it pop off, kill on you, nuke your HOT motor with really flammable gasoline, and you standing there knowing what you forgot to do without a fire extinguisher watching your bike burn in the middle of the street (or in your garage which would probably be a whole lot worse).
5: Stay organized! Always keep in mind that the tank does rotate down, and it's a tight fit. make sure your fuel harness is always in the path you want it to be in. my personal suggestion for a path out of the motor is on the left side in front of the tank bolt IN FRONT OF the OEM harness. That way you can still use the clip stay on the tank for the OEM harness and route your Bazzaz harness along side of it. use zip ties.
6: Using the AFM on the stock exhaust manifold. HELL YES it can be done. HELL NO you don't have to buy the bazzaz steel O2 bung. you can get one from CarQuest or your favorite parts store (Advanced and Autozone dont's count) that sells exhaust stuff for less than $5. well that baby dead center where the three seams meet on the outside before the cat. a little more left of this would have been GREAT. this works though. barely. BTW, there's no good spot to attach the harness for the AFM to so i suggest zip tieing it to the ignition harnessas far away from the pipe as you can go. you could drill into the swingarm and mount it there... but i choose not to. though i was seriously considering it. only reason i did was because i didn't want to remove the tank completely just to fit a big drill in there. lazyness, but my method works so i win.
6: basically where you're going to have to at least be competant enough to get at:
7: General Idea of what it looks like under your tank.
8: When taking off the airbox DON'T BREAK THIS.
9: Vamp connector attached to Neutral sensor. tip it more inwards than i did though.
10: Main 12v power for the Box is a BLACK(brown) wire. it's also the rear running light wire.