Shortening arrow muffler can... good idea? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Shortening arrow muffler can... good idea?

I have a real issue with having my it taillight covered up by the muffler... safety first safety always!

I've seen two options, shorten the can by busting the rivets, cutting about 2 inches off, and reriveting, OR lower the mounting bracket and angling the muffler farther away from the undertail.

The two inch shortening would look best, as I have a really nice arrow muffler and midpipe kit that looks super clean and fits great into the undertail. If I angle it it won't look as 'fit'.

Cutting it looks like an easy project, but I've heard bad things about cutting... power loss, and potential for ruining an expensive and currently mint system...

Does anyone have any opinions on this mod or experience with cutting the arrow exaust specifically?

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 11:10 AM
 
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We have cut down a number of exhaust. Haven't heard of anyone having any problems with them. I cut my 2 bros down 3" inches and never had a problem with it.




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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome. Sounds like ill be going to lowes and gettin a rivet punch :) I'm psyched for that fe and light to come in!

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tripage View Post
We have cut down a number of exhaust. Haven't heard of anyone having any problems with them. I cut my 2 bros down 3" inches and never had a problem with it.
what's the wait time like for your kits to ship out? sorry, im being impatient :)

I will post pics of the project, since i haven't seen any of an arrow exhaust yet.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 04:20 PM
 
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Shipping out today.




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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Well, part one of this project is done.

I started by going to Lowes and getting a hack saw and a hand powered rivet punch for about 30 bucks. I got the rivet punch as a kit that had 3/16" rivets with it, which were the perfect size to reattach the muffler rear.

Then I measured how much I wanted to cut off. I wanted the endcap to be right under the light, so it wouldn't cover it up but the muffler would still stick out the back just a little. This added up to cutting 2".

Then I took the muffler off the bike, too easy. Then I drilled out the rivets and popped them off with a hammer and screwdriver. I donated that screwdriver to this project, as you might see in the pictures...

Then I cut the muffler can with a hack saw. It worked, but a power tool would have been better. The cut was clean and straight, but i ended up jumping the blade a couple times and scratching the can a little. Once i had the can cut, I pulled the whole thing apart to get at the core tube. Then I used a utility knife to trim the fiberglass.

Ensure that you don't cut that fiberglass too short though, because it sill has to fill the can when you put it back together. Then I removed the fiberglass roll from the center tube. I started cutting the center tube, but realized I had an old tin snips that would work well, and cut it with that.

The one big issue I ran into the was weld of the core tube.... I didn't realize it was welded to the butt end of the muffler cap, so once it was cut it was a huge pain to clean it off and reattach it.... IF I CAN SUGGEST ANYTHING, it is to cut the can from the butt end, but then remeasure and cut the core tube from the other end, so that you can leave the welds intact on the butt end....

After a half hour of hammering, pulling with pliers, cutting and all other not-so-right ways to try and remove the small welded piece of core, I finally got it clean enough. Then I sliced the core tube I wanted to used a little on the end to make it fit around the butt end again and pounded it on. I had to recut this a couple times though, because the core tubed ended up a little longer and I couldnt get the butt end to fit back on. No big deal, just cut and test the fit again. Make sure you test the fit of the core tube before you rewrap it, otherwise you might waste some time...

Then I rewrapped it, put it back in and hammered the butt end back on with a rubber mallet to ensure it was on snug. Then I redrilled the holes in the can, wrapped it with the trim metal piece, and rivetted it.

Really it was too easy.... I could have been done an hour earlier if I had known that the core was welded to the butt end and hadn't cut it off...
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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More pics of the project
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2013, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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a couple more pics of the wrap up
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Before:

and

After:
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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The finished tripage FE and taillight kit.Click image for larger version

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And then after I did a little modding because I wasn't a fan of the turn signals being so big and having wires hanging out.Click image for larger version

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Super happy with the kit and the taillight. In my opinion, better tail light than the cbr heaven one I had before, and WAY better FE than the plastic crap one from cbr heaven. This one is solid metal and very sturdy.... none of those crap plastic taped on led bars like the other guys like to sell. Thanks tripage for a quality product!

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 11:06 AM
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I'm surprised nobody has replied to this. Good job, it looks WAY better shortened.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 11:35 AM
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Well done. Thanks for posting. I'm also a fan of the Arrow can although I'm sporting a Yoshi now. Noticed how the street slip on setup stuck out more than the race bikes I've seen. Asked one of our vendors here about it and he replied that the full system's mid pipe sets it back further in the tail without cutting up the can. I don't know if I'd go the length of a full system on street bike just for that but maybe instead of buying the Arrow slip on mid pipe I could have one bent up custom to pull the can back in. ? Maybe easier to just cut it like you have. Here's a pic of the race Arrow system and how it sets in.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 12:12 PM
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Nice job. I have the same silencer, in black, and it does stick out pretty far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PdubRR View Post
Well done. Thanks for posting. I'm also a fan of the Arrow can although I'm sporting a Yoshi now. Noticed how the street slip on setup stuck out more than the race bikes I've seen. Asked one of our vendors here about it and he replied that the full system's mid pipe sets it back further in the tail without cutting up the can. I don't know if I'd go the length of a full system on street bike just for that but maybe instead of buying the Arrow slip on mid pipe I could have one bent up custom to pull the can back in. ? Maybe easier to just cut it like you have. Here's a pic of the race Arrow system and how it sets in.

The mid-pipe for the Arrow headers will not attach to the stock headers.
When ordering this silencer you have to order the mid-pipe seperately based upon whether or not you have stock, or Arrow headers. The two are not interchangeable. Arrow pipes connect to the header pipe differently than a traditional slip-on mid-pipe that slides over the stock header.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyP View Post
Nice job. I have the same silencer, in black, and it does stick out pretty far.



The mid-pipe for the Arrow headers will not attach to the stock headers.
When ordering this silencer you have to order the mid-pipe seperately based upon whether or not you have stock, or Arrow headers. The two are not interchangeable. Arrow pipes connect to the header pipe differently than a traditional slip-on mid-pipe that slides over the stock header.
That was understood. That's why I was saying it would be a bit much to go to a full system just to set the can back a couple inches. The can chop seems pretty easy but you could also have an exhaust shop fab up a mid pipe that mates to the stock headers and sets the can where you want it.
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