Auto tune is it worth it? - 600RR.net
Exhaust & Fuel Delivery Tips on how to get the most out of your bike

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Auto tune is it worth it?

Not sure if there's already a thread about this but I'm curious as to who's used an autotune with PCv and what your experience was with it. Is it worth getting? I plan on getting a quick shifter, and ignition module as well. For a 05 600rr.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 02:56 PM
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autotune afaik is great if you want to chuck a new end can on and a powercommander so it'll sort the mixture out, but, there's nothing better than getting a proper custom map made, the only time I could see a benefit is if you reguarly change between baffle in and baffle out, if say you ride it on road and track, since some tracks are funny about noise, IMO i'd say just get a custom tune done, but if you are changing that stuff regularly then it could work fine for you



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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 06:49 PM
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It's worth it when dyno tune is a bit expensive.

I managed to get pretty good power upgrade by using auto tune and some manual tuning to the map by feel.

It doesn't make as much power as if I get it properly dyno tuned. But at least the engine is not running too lean and much much smoother now.


Even without auto tune; you can create your own map with feeling and smooth out a lot of things. I did it to a mate's GSX-R with Bazzaz without auto tune.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 03:49 AM
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By using autotune you will be able to change your map - make it better, no matter where you are and what are the weather conditions.

You can easily make the bike burn less fuel before a big trip, make it more powerfull or more friendly.
Autotune has been used on both road and race bikes and I have only good things to say for someone that want to have good result without spending a lot.
It's a good tool and nice to have it if you already own a pc-v - I take for granded that the user knows what he's doing - otherwise it can become a nightmare and make damage to the bike.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 09:35 AM
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Just get a proper custom map done on a dyno, it'll get you the best throttle response and power possible from your bike with the mods you have, if you want to have a economy map done too, then just get the map switch for the PCV. I've got one on mine and it works great.

The Autotune works ok, but you'll never beat a custom map. Those who say that it adapts your map to account for the environment you're riding in are correct in theory, but in practice it's not quite so simple. Especially if you're riding on a road that increases and decrease in altitude, the auto tune is always playing catch up so will never be 100% correct. With a proper map, the engines MAP sensor and air temperature sensors allow the ECU to make any adjustments you will need in real time, just as it does on a stock bike.

You only go as fast as you twist the throttle.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 11:41 AM
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Buckley you're right, but remember we're talking about a cheap piggy back ecu.
Tunning with it it's never perfect and one of the reasons is that you cannot effect secondary maps. You can adjust gear effect on mapping which is very important though.

Regarding your comments about the need of autotune. If you know what you're doing and when you need to do it (ex. summer vs winter) then it makes a huge difference of how the bike works, secondary maps are made to work with original mapping and their adjustment is never enough if you look for the extra ponnies (than on a 600 bike make a huge difference).

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 04:25 PM
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Auto tune is a great tool to make sure you have a safe map but it will not give you top power all the time. Auto tune corrects your fuel map to give you the desired air fuel ratio that is set in auto tune. Without ever putting your bike on a dyno it is impossible to know what air fuel ratio your bike runs best at throughout the entire rpm range.

I recently had my bike dyno tuned. The tuner first set the map to give a consistent 13 to 1 fuel ratio during the entire rpm range. Then he started adding or subtracting fuel to see where the bike made the most power. There were parts of the rpm range that almost 5 HP more made by fine tuning the air fuel ratio vs the 13 to 1 fuel curve.

If you don't have access to getting your bike tuned its better than nothing especially if you have upgraded your exhaust as it will help with a safe curve and not let your engine run lean.
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