Is it necessary to have Pair valves block off plates - 600RR.net
Exhaust & Fuel Delivery Tips on how to get the most out of your bike

 
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Is it necessary to have Pair valves block off plates

Hey just wondering will I still feel the benefit and no engine damage if I install the power commander 5 and remove the catalytic converter but keep the pair valves intact??
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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Dindanio View Post
Hey just wondering will I still feel the benefit and no engine damage if I install the power commander 5 and remove the catalytic converter but keep the pair valves intact??


If you don't remove your pair valve the air/fuel mixture is always going to be off. Which will cause either a rich or lean bike depending on the map.Which can lead to engine damage after a prolonged time.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 04:15 PM
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do the plates. otherwise it will be injecting air and messing with the readings on the dyno. they're cheap compared to the rest of your plan, do it the right way.
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 04:34 PM
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Once you complete the PAIR delete, what are most doing with the crankcase breather? Are you able to just utilize the OEM breather back into the airbox?

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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 06:41 PM
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Got some driven racing block off plates for sale if your interested. Never used, pm me if your interested.


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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWormer View Post
If you don't remove your pair valve the air/fuel mixture is always going to be off. Which will cause either a rich or lean bike depending on the map.Which can lead to engine damage after a prolonged time.
the pair system has nothing to do with the fueling on the bike. these bikes are open loop tuned. unless he plans to dynotune the bike, there won't be any difference. maybe a bit of popping on decel
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
the pair system has nothing to do with the fueling on the bike. these bikes are open loop tuned. unless he plans to dynotune the bike, there won't be any difference. maybe a bit of popping on decel


I understand that I was thinking of sniffer on the dyno and got side tracked while typing thinking of richening up the mixture while tuning do to extra air. Sorry for the misleading post, posted and didn't think about it.
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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Well I'm planning on getting it dyno and the guy said he will block it off while getting the custom map. However, in the meantime for the next 2 months or so I want to ride the bike hence my question.
Don't know if it's worth mentioning but the bike is u.k. 2012, mods ordered and ready for install are :
Pc5
Mid pipe cat delete
K&n air filter
Toce slip on( I've only recently gather this exhaust is hated by many in the states).
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your advice as well guys :)
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-30-2016, 12:14 PM
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For me, toce was not a favorite.

Many threads on this.

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-05-2016, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speak917 View Post
Once you complete the PAIR delete, what are most doing with the crankcase breather? Are you able to just utilize the OEM breather back into the airbox?
I unplugged the hose from the airbox and bought a UNI filter to put on the open end of the hose, then i just re-routed it to hang up.(filter pointed up) To me, now the airbox wont be receiving any recycled crankcase air.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-05-2016, 03:28 PM
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I had PCV, cat delete, O2 sensor delete, K&N air filter and slip on custom mapped on dyno without block off plates. Dyno technician simply clamped off the hoses whilst bike was on dyno. Simple. No running problems at all after the tune.

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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 04:06 PM
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It's not much, but just getting the block off plates, and removing the pair system does drop unnecessary weight. I heard it does make engine breaking less "abrupt" as well. can't say i noticed a huge difference
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jawsolsen333 View Post
I unplugged the hose from the airbox and bought a UNI filter to put on the open end of the hose, then i just re-routed it to hang up.(filter pointed up) To me, now the airbox wont be receiving any recycled crankcase air.
Where did you get the uni-filter? Do you have any pictures of it?

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Speak917 View Post
Where did you get the uni-filter? Do you have any pictures of it?
I believe I got it off of Ebay.
UNI 3/8 clamp filter | eBay

I believe its the UP-102. (3/8")
I haven't had any issues with it.
Did you mean any pictures of it installed in the bike??
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jawsolsen333 View Post
I believe I got it off of Ebay.
UNI 3/8 clamp filter | eBay

I believe its the UP-102. (3/8")
I haven't had any issues with it.
Did you mean any pictures of it installed in the bike??
I will probably go this route if I ever get a tune. I just linked my CC breather to a t-piece with the pair hoses (aka kleen air).

If I needed to get a tune, I would just like the hoses together between the pair, and a uni filter on the CC.

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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Juzman View Post
I will probably go this route if I ever get a tune. I just linked my CC breather to a t-piece with the pair hoses (aka kleen air).

If I needed to get a tune, I would just like the hoses together between the pair, and a uni filter on the CC.
Yeah you could do that. I thought about doing the T piece, but figured that the differences between doing that and just fully removing the PAIR system with block off plates would be about the same. Plus some minor weight taken off.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-12-2016, 11:53 AM
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that little filter is going to get saturated in oil and eventually start dripping all over your bike. it's best to keep the crank case connected to the airbox and if you refuse you at the VERY LEAST need to install a catch can prior to the filter.


having the crank case connected to the air box actually reduces pumping losses, a common thing is to actually increase the size of the breather to further reduce these losses. venting it to atmosphere will result in greater pumping losses than stock. it's essentially a downgrade
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 10:33 AM
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You don't really need to buy block off plates.
I used JB Weld. Works great.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post
that little filter is going to get saturated in oil and eventually start dripping all over your bike. it's best to keep the crank case connected to the airbox and if you refuse you at the VERY LEAST need to install a catch can prior to the filter.


having the crank case connected to the air box actually reduces pumping losses, a common thing is to actually increase the size of the breather to further reduce these losses. venting it to atmosphere will result in greater pumping losses than stock. it's essentially a downgrade
I have the hose hung up though, which from what I heard, Gravity would bring the oil back down the tube and not saturate the filter, as well as the UNI filter being able to work with saturation as well.

I heard people also route that crank hose to a T with some of the PAIR hoses to create some negative vacuum or something like that which sounds a little more appealing
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 05:03 PM
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both are stupid ideas

but if you don't want to listen then go hard.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 12:25 PM
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Hey guys.. reviving an older thread.

So I have done the Kleen air mod (connected the two pairs hoses together with a T fitting that also has the CC breather attached). I am about to install an autotune and from my understanding I should be good to go in the sense that the pairs system is no longer feeding air into the exhaust (correct?). If I were to disconnect the CC hose from the T fitting where would it be routed to? At the moment I can't recall the exact hosing schematic as I did this over a year ago.

I do still get some slight popping on decel.. i am currently running the two bros map from the dynojet website.

As an aside.. can anyone confirm for me that the OEM header is stainless steel?

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 12:39 PM
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You can't run your auto tune with the crank case breather connected to the pair. It connects to the airbox. There's a very obvious bung on the airbox for it.

The header is stainless
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 03:11 PM
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Just so I am clear on what you are saying..

my pairs system is deleted (solenoid etc).. all that remains are the two hoses coming out of the engine (where one would install the block off plates). Those two lines are connected to a T which also is connected to the CC Hose.

So you are saying the CC will then alter the air mixture in the exhaust because it is connected to the two (previous) pairs lines? I have the airbox Bung capped off for the time being.. I could route the CC hose down to the airbox bung which would then vent it to atmosphere.. is that what you are recommending?

2004 Cbr600rr; 63K; PC5; K&N; Velocity stack mod; Two Bros Exhaust, 15x45 520 conversion; SpeedoDRD; pairs delete
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-10-2017, 04:52 PM
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The crank case will vent air into the exhaust and screw up the o2 readings.

Connect it to the airbox where it belongs.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-11-2017, 01:22 AM
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I hated the popping/surge the pair seemed to create on mine so I just unplugged the solenoid. Anything wrong with that or is better to properly remove/plug it all off?

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-27-2017, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjay67 View Post
I hated the popping/surge the pair seemed to create on mine so I just unplugged the solenoid. Anything wrong with that or is better to properly remove/plug it all off?
3 months later... I am kinda curious how this worked out for you..?
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-27-2017, 11:17 AM
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It's been fine. I probably put 30K on the bike this year - no issues.

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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-01-2017, 07:32 PM
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It's been fine. I probably put 30K on the bike this year - no issues.
Holy crap is that kilometers or miles? Either way, that's a lot!
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-01-2017, 10:07 PM
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Kilometers or, 18,641 miles. I do a lot of riding. My gas bill this year, per month, was getting pretty darn high :) I got the bike ~2 years ago, it had 39k on it and if memory serves it's now at 75k - somewhere around there. To give you an idea, I re-built my last bike 4 times and put +100k on it - although a lot of that wear was due to 100% power increases with Nitrous and exceeding the factory rev limiter by 3,000 RPM :)

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