PCIII Tweeks for Smoother Throttle - 600RR.net
Exhaust & Fuel Delivery Tips on how to get the most out of your bike

 
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
 
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PCIII Tweeks for Smoother Throttle

I was experimenting with my PCIII map today and found a way to smooth the off/on throttle transition. My custom map didn't have any correction values for 0% throttle. I figured if I richened it up between 12 and 16 points at 0%, the revs would drop slower and power would be down a touch when coming on the stick because it would be richer than optimal for a split sec. Long story short. It works.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 08:12 PM
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Cool.
well mine is great, does everything nicely so im cool.
nice tip tho, i may try it one day.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 08:32 PM
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Interesting...wouldn't this mess up your idle a bit though, causing spikes in RPM when just sitting at idle? Would that cause any damage if you live in a cold area, like yours truly, and leave the bike on for a while for it go get to operating temps?

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 08:34 PM
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Hey Dizmac, did you just change all the 0% throttle values up a certain amount or did you somehow derive the values that you used? I might just try this because i have quite a bit of abruptness when im on/off throttle.

First make an "S".............for snake, uh.................I mean.............dragon. Then a more different "S".
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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There's no effect to your Idle. I started adding correction values at 1250rpm. I did add it lower at first, but it did change the Idle a bit. It got quieter and deeper, but I don't think it would have had any ill effect. Richer mixture tends to burn cooler. Maybe a bit more carbon in the exhaust than normal, but it was smooth still. It only really matters where you'd like to smooth out your throttle transtion. No one really rides around a 3k rpm. To find the values I used, I just started with 1 and moved up until it just began to slow the drop in R's as you let off the throttle. I had to continue changing these to fair out the drop or keep it smooth. I ended up with values from as low as 1 to as high as 16 or 17 if I remember right.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 09:14 PM
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when you figure out how to make the top end pull strong let me know.. thats what i wanna tweak.

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03 600RR > 04 1000RR > 06 R6V > 05 600RR > 06 R1 > 09 1000RR > 10 RSV4R :gun:
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Those numbers are the ones I paid for that were made on the dyno by the professionals so I no touchy touchy those.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 09:24 PM
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haha.. yeah... i feel that..

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03 600RR > 04 1000RR > 06 R6V > 05 600RR > 06 R1 > 09 1000RR > 10 RSV4R :gun:
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 12:01 PM
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The throttle position should be calibrated properly instead of adding fuel to a custom map. How do you know what the A/F ratio is running at? I would not advise trying to add fuel to your map to compensate for your throttle position.

Adjust the cable slack out and then calibrate the TPS.

Scroll down to "Tutorial 10" under the PCIII section.
http://www.powercommander.com/tut_download.shtml


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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You're not understanding the point here. The point is to go richer than is optimal at 0% throttle. No one cares about keeping the most efficient burn when they close the throttle. At that point you're not asking for power. But when you come back on, if there's a slug of too rich mixture in your bikes throat already, it smoothly comes into the power. Rather than all too eficiently giving all it can. That's my theory anyways. My throttle postion sensor has been cal'd and my slack is less than spec just enough to keep steering from affecting it. I'm not compensating for anything. And as for any possible damage. You run at 0% throttle at elevated RPMs for a very small fraction of the total time you ride. And running a little rich never hurt an engine. Very rich can foul plugs and leave carbon and in extreme conditions could affect cylender wall lubrication. Lean is what you have to look out for because lean combustion is very hot.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 02:04 PM
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^ save the trees bro, your releasing unburned fuel into the atmosphere.
if you were to do that right throughout the rev range your bike would be shooting blue flames everytime you shut the throttle.

I think its done that way for a reason. i dont knwo thta, mine is smooth enough for me. My biggest concern was smoothing it out when APPLYING throttle, not when i was closing it.
the Fuel accelerator software only made it better.

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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 02:06 PM
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check out what NRR is saying and put your map back to the way it was.
then adjust your idle, and set the throttle position on the PC map for 0% and 100% and i bet your trash will be smoother.

I think a part of the problem might be that your 0% value wasnt correct.

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snikwad
I think a part of the problem might be that your 0% value wasnt correct.
I'm wondering the same thing. Some tuners don't even bother to adjust 0% TP anyway. My point is, that if the map is correct and the TP is calibrated, why do you still have On/Off throttle lag or problems? I see what you're trying to do but I'm not sure that this is the correct way to accomplish what you want. What rpm is your idle set at?


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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRedRider
I'm wondering the same thing. Some tuners don't even bother to adjust 0% TP anyway. My point is, that if the map is correct and the TP is calibrated, why do you still have On/Off throttle lag or problems? I see what you're trying to do but I'm not sure that this is the correct way to accomplish what you want. What rpm is your idle set at?
exactly, i think thats why PC says its the 1st thing you should do after installation.
Its liek the map doesnt match the timing of the rev range.

No more mod listing, shits is STILL too long

03 600RR > 04 1000RR > 06 R6V > 05 600RR > 06 R1 > 09 1000RR > 10 RSV4R :gun:
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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-21-2007, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Trees like carbon. The whole reason IS to smooth the throttle out when APPLYING. Going rich enough to cause backfiring would be excessive. There's no backfiring at these levels. There wasn't any lag to begin with. Like I said, everything is adjusted right and the TPS was cal'd. The problem is just inherent in the EFI system. This is just a way to soften the transition coming back on the throttle. Honda's doing the same thing with their new throttle body air bypass on the '07. Different approach but same effect. Minus the emissions in the 07's case.
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiZmAc View Post
Trees like carbon. The whole reason IS to smooth the throttle out when APPLYING. Going rich enough to cause backfiring would be excessive. There's no backfiring at these levels. There wasn't any lag to begin with. Like I said, everything is adjusted right and the TPS was cal'd. The problem is just inherent in the EFI system. This is just a way to soften the transition coming back on the throttle. Honda's doing the same thing with their new throttle body air bypass on the '07. Different approach but same effect. Minus the emissions in the 07's case.
Well Diz I have no doubt that you know what you're talking about but I'm having trouble visualizing this. It would be much easier in person. But basically you're just changing the "0" value at 0% TP by adding @ 12 points and this is giving you a smoother On/Off throttle response.


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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-22-2007, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Right, Just richening the mixture @ closed throttle. Not fooling the computer into thinking it's at a different throttle opening. I could give the correction numbers but there's no telling how a different bike would react. I'll bet they would work, though. I could post them. Copy and paste them in your 0% colunm and see what happens. I'll do it in the morning after I get off work.
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 07:45 AM
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i am going to be intrested in the final results of your research...


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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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You can't copy and past these, but it's usable.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-23-2007, 07:02 PM
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I'm all for smooth throttle transition.

That's been the hardest part of switching from a carbed bike to a F.I. bike.
FI is either on or off...no floating like with carbs

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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 02-24-2007, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNI Dawg View Post
I'm all for smooth throttle transition.

That's been the hardest part of switching from a carbed bike to a F.I. bike.
FI is either on or off...no floating like with carbs
I agree. This was my first FI bike and it took me some getting used to to say the least.


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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-05-2007, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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I got a chance to really ride this past weekend without being restrained by really cold roads. Temps got over 50. Wooohoo. I must say that I'm really satisfied. One welcome side effect is clutchless shifting is even smoother than before.
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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 01:38 AM
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I'll give it a shot. Do you have the accelerator pump on to help getting back on it hard? This extra fuel may help that on it's own.
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-09-2007, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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The Accelerator pump upgrade helps but I think it's the richer mixture before you even come on the gas is what's making the effect.
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