Cooling problems /boiling water coming out - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Cooling problems /boiling water coming out

I've just installed a "new" engine on my cbr600rr 2004, have two days with it, yesterday i was waiting on a red light and bolied water started coming out from the overflow tube of the cooling reservoir the temp was 236f and wasnt cooling down so i cruze for a while to get the temp to 210 then shut it down. So this has happen twice

I saw the fan spining but i dont know what temp it does kick in i guess is supposed to start at 220is

I think it could be a bad thermostat or the temp sensor

Any idea?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 10:27 AM
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Issues it could be in order that they might be a problem:
1. Air in your cooling system, flush and burp it to get all the air out.
2. Radiator issue, be sure it flows.
3. Waterpump issue, be sure it works.
4. Thermostat issue.
5. Temp sensor, fan or other issue.

Coolant, not water (you did put in coolant, correct?) shouldn't boil out at 236f so your temp sensor is reading low. I'm almost positive you have trapped air in your cooling system so you need to get it out. Service manual will tell you how.

To add: fan should kick on at 217f and run until temp gets to 212f or so.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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When the engine was installed it had coolant but boiled anyway from the overflow so i just added water to get to normal level
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 07:10 PM
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i'd guess that your rad cap is faulty

if the system can't pressurize it won't work properly, and for it to be boiling out of your reservoir it has to get past the cap.

if it were air in the system the system would never build enough pressure to get to the overflow.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post
so you need to get it out. Service manual will tell you how.
Wait for bike to cool, undo radiator cap, start bike and blip throttle a few times. :p

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-27-2015, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonarvayo View Post
When the engine was installed it had coolant but boiled anyway from the overflow so i just added water to get to normal level
You added distilled water right, not normal tap water?

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juzman View Post
You added distilled water right, not normal tap water?
was tap water. But when it first happened was coolant, now it has a mix with tap water and coolant

yesterday i checked the hoses for any leaks but couldnt find one. also burped the system (took the cap off and let it warm till 180-190 and quick rev it) some bubbles came out. Filled the reservoir and the radiator. took it to the road for a test but was cold outside like 50 F and couldnt get the bike too hot, while rideing temp reached max 200 F and min 170 F. i tryed to warm the engine more without rideing it, reached 220F (the fan didnt kick on). didnt get boiling water out of the overflow.

i hope it was just air in the system, i'll try today hopefully i get the same results

any idea why the fan didnt work ?
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wibbly View Post

if the system can't pressurize it won't work properly,
Pressurized water boils at a higher temp, Wibbly is probably right on here.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheX View Post
Pressurized water boils at a higher temp, Wibbly is probably right on here.
@wibbly is usually always right. Such a smartarse. :p

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Quick update while looking at the hoses i discovered that the air bleading hose (the one on the neck of the radiator that conects to the reservoir wasnt tight, fixed that hope it will fix the problem
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 05:48 PM
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@wibbly is usually always right.
Unfortunately, that's not always the case.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2015, 03:25 AM
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Unfortunately, that's not always the case.
Some people just trololol.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2015, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juzman View Post
Wait for bike to cool, undo radiator cap, start bike and blip throttle a few times. :p
There's more to it than that. And a service manual would answer every one of his questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonarvayo View Post
Quick update while looking at the hoses i discovered that the air bleading hose (the one on the neck of the radiator that conects to the reservoir wasnt tight, fixed that hope it will fix the problem
That's not an "air bleeding" hose. You really need a service manual as it sounds like you don't have any experience with what is happening and how to go about properly checking this. You need to get the tap water out of the system as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheX View Post
Pressurized water boils at a higher temp, Wibbly is probably right on here.
Rethinking about this I agree. But there are several other factors going on here and I'm sure the cap is the only one.

OP you need to go over everything and be sure you've done it all correctly. Sounds like your fan isn't working for one (could be temp sensor, fan switch, fan itself), your cap seems like could be bad or not sealing correctly, make sure your hoses are routed correctly (the hose coming from the radiator neck should go to the bottom of reservoir tank, the top should vent to the open air), you have a mix of tap water and coolant, etc. So have you tested your thermostat? When you bled the system did you remove the plug on the engine block?

Lots of things going on.

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Last edited by Miweber929; 11-29-2015 at 05:44 PM.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-29-2015, 11:56 AM
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To check the thermostat: Start bike with engine below normal operating temp and radiator cap removed. Let it run and watch the temp rise. Looking through the neck of the radiator where you removed the cap you should be able to see coolant/water start flowing vigorously when the thermostat opens around 180 degrees F.

To burp: With engine off, fill the radiator. Standing on the left side of the bike take it off the stand and lean the bike towards you as far as you can safely. May need to stand the bike back up and lean it slowly back over a couple times. The idea is to let the air naturally rise to the top/right side as you lean the bike.

Faulty cap: OEM caps are designed to release pressure at 1.1 bar, slightly above atmospheric pressure. If the cap is old the spring weakens and will allow overflow before it should. Or if you have corrosion on the cap gasket or neck of the radiator it won't seal properly and again allow overflow before it should. This can easily be mistaken for "boiling over" even if the system is not fully up to temp.

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 12:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post
There's more to it than that. And a service manual would answer every one of his questions.
Sorry, radiator cap + resevoir cap off. Fill them to the levels, then start bike. Then blip the trottle when warmed. :p

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post


You really need a service manual as it sounds like you don't have any experience with what is happening and how to go about properly checking this.


Rethinking about this I agree. But there are several other factors going on here and I'm sure the cap is the only one.



Sounds like your fan isn't working for one (could be temp sensor, fan switch, fan itself),

Lots of things going on.
thats right i dont know much about this, first bike. I do have a service manual.

"You're got them right"
i found a crack in the gasket ,I bought a new cap, replaced, heated up and didnt came water out of the overflow.

going to check the fan tomorrow with a multimeter
Quote:
Originally Posted by tornado bait View Post
To check the thermostat: Start bike with engine below normal operating temp and radiator cap removed. Let it run and watch the temp rise. Looking through the neck of the radiator where you removed the cap you should be able to see coolant/water start flowing vigorously when the thermostat opens around 180 degrees F.
I already did the burp thing so im just going to test the thermostat.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately, that's not always the case.
he was right tho
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juzman View Post
Sorry, radiator cap + resevoir cap off. Fill them to the levels, then start bike. Then blip the trottle when warmed. :p
That works just fine when you are doing a flush and fill. When you swap engines and have ALL the coolant out, there is more to it.

Keep trying, service manual might help :P

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-30-2015, 10:44 AM
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Glad you got it sorted @jonarvayo
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miweber929 View Post
That works just fine when you are doing a flush and fill. When you swap engines and have ALL the coolant out, there is more to it.

Keep trying, service manual might help :P
I have a service manual. I've not swapped an engine though, just flush/fill/burp. :p

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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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That works just fine when you are doing a flush and fill. When you swap engines and have ALL the coolant out, there is more to it.
I didnt swap the engine, a mechanic did so that was done right

All the problems got solved... the "boiling" water was caused a bad radiator cap

The fan wasnt turning on because of a bad relay

Also did a flush of the coolant with destilled water, added cooland + destilled water



thank you guys
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015, 09:48 PM
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Yay! Thanks for closing this one out with the root cause.

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