Green stuff on bolt on front of engine? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Green stuff on bolt on front of engine?

I was looking the bike over, saw a bolt with some green stuff. Doesnt look like its dripping down or anything. Just a little collected around the bolt.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 10:35 PM
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what are you asking?

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 12:21 AM
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That's coolant. Did you wipe the area around it off or is it wet there? That's one of the bolts you remove when flush the coolant, looks like it might be leaking. There's a washer on it that's supposed to be replaced when the coolant is flushed. You can get away with not replacing it, but if you over or under torque the bolt it can leak.


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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar556 View Post
That's coolant. Did you wipe the area around it off or is it wet there? That's one of the bolts you remove when flush the coolant, looks like it might be leaking
Must be a different model? My '03 I simply undo the coolant pump and hose.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juzman View Post
Must be a different model? My '03 I simply undo the coolant pump and hose.

Yeah, there are 2 drain bolts on the 07+. The one at the pump and one behind the headers below the exhaust ports that you see in the pic.


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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 02:26 AM
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be very careful tightening that bolt.......easy to strip/break if too much power.

maybe try tightening it by no more than 1/32 turn, just a bump.....and if you are not good with feel, stop.

wipe it and see if leaking after a ride.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 01:16 PM
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take it off clean bolt, replace crush washer and torque to factory spec with torque wrench.

dare i say genius muhahaha

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 01:18 PM
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edit - How do I thank myself?

I just read my post and realized I owned the f uck out of this thread

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mran556 View Post
take it off clean bolt, replace crush washer and torque to factory spec with torque wrench.



dare i say genius muhahaha

There is no torque spec for that bolt (or the one at the pump). You'll also lose some coolant and introduce air doing that, so make sure you burp the system is you do.


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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 01:25 PM
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I take that back, the one at the pump does have a torque spec, 12Nm. But the one at the cylinder head (the one pictured) doesn't.


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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar556 View Post
I take that back, the one at the pump does have a torque spec, 12Nm. But the one at the cylinder head (the one pictured) doesn't.


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It does its just not in the cooling section of the manual... might be engine or exhaust removal i forget.. also bleeding the cooling system has nothing to do with removal or replaceing that bolt...

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:16 PM
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So nah i f ucking owned this thread muhahahah

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:30 PM
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:31 PM
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That's the cylinder drain bolt, no torque spec, no thread owning...


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Last edited by ar556; 03-01-2016 at 09:41 PM.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 09:34 PM
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And you certainly will let coolant out/ air in if you remove it. Procedure for flushing is drain at the pump first, then drain at the cylinder head. You get coolant out of both when you do.


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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar556 View Post
And you certainly will let coolant out/ air in if you remove it. Procedure for flushing is drain at the pump first, then drain at the cylinder head. You get coolant out of both when you do.


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i never talked about burping his system so my advice is spot on.... you dont need to burp they system to replace that bolt... if you wanna go anywhere after replacing that bolt well thats another story entirely.. Also u need a better service manual mine has it in there and no im not willing to scroll threw hundreds of pages to find it but you can. move along now

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 11:11 PM
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i never talked about burping his system so my advice is spot on.... you dont need to burp they system to replace that bolt... if you wanna go anywhere after replacing that bolt well thats another story entirely.. Also u need a better service manual mine has it in there and no im not willing to scroll threw hundreds of pages to find it but you can. move along now
I didn't say you did, I advised to burp it if you remove/replace that bolt. So are you saying no air is going to get in (or coolant out) when that bolt is removed to replace the washer then?

Not sure what you mean by "go anywhere after..." I only mentioned the flush procedure to reinforce that being a drain bolt that will open a closed system letting fluid out/air in if removed. Hence it being a good idea to go ahead and burp it, even if the amount of air is minimal.

As for the torque spec, if you say it's in yours, OK then. Why don't you help the OP out and give it to him... If it is there, it's probably the same as the one at the pump anyways. Either way, it would be a b!tich to actually get a torque wrench in there, just use a box wrench and tighten it 1/4 turn past seating it by hand.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar556 View Post
I didn't say you did, I advised to burp it if you remove/replace that bolt. So are you saying no air is going to get in (or coolant out) when that bolt is removed to replace the washer then?

Not sure what you mean by "go anywhere after..." I only mentioned the flush procedure to reinforce that being a drain bolt that will open a closed system letting fluid out/air in if removed. Hence it being a good idea to go ahead and burp it, even if the amount of air is minimal.

As for the torque spec, if you say it's in yours, OK then. Why don't you help the OP out and give it to him... If it is there, it's probably the same as the one at the pump anyways. Either way, it would be a b!tich to actually get a torque wrench in there, just use a box wrench and tighten it 1/4 turn past seating it by hand.
no I didnt say you did your wrong. in your post #9 you were the first to bring up burping the system. I never mentioned it before you did and im not going to talk about it now....

Why dont i help the op with the torque spec? If you read im not paging threw hundreds of pages of the manual. what makes you think its the same torque spec as the water pump drain bolt thats just stupid you have no ground to stand on. yes its hard to get a torque wrech in there the headers are in the way.. thats the only thing youve been correct about.

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 12:30 AM
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wtf are you goofs going on about? just stfu already
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 01:02 AM
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no I didnt say you did your wrong. in your post #9 you were the first to bring up burping the system. I never mentioned it before you did and im not going to talk about it now....

Why dont i help the op with the torque spec? If you read im not paging threw hundreds of pages of the manual. what makes you think its the same torque spec as the water pump drain bolt thats just stupid you have no ground to stand on. yes its hard to get a torque wrech in there the headers are in the way.. thats the only thing youve been correct about.
You didn't say you said i said...blah, blah. I know I was the first to mention burping, that's exactly what I just said above.

Anyways, seriously, what manual do you have and how hard is it to look at a TOC and flip to the referenced page? Here's yet another example of a manual with no torque spec for that bolt.
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 01:05 AM
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wtf are you goofs going on about? just stfu already
If you're stopping by, give your opinion on the matter. It's a well respected one around here.
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 07:34 AM
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Hey doofuses EVERY bolt has a standard torque spec (it says so right in the front of the manual) so unless you see something different printed, you use that.

And instead of of taking the time to write how you are correct and the other is not LOOK UP THE DAMN VALUE AND HELP SOMEONE OUT!!!!

And MRAN you didn't own the f*ck out if this thread, sorry to break it to you......

OP my guess would be someone changed the coolant on your bike and either reused the crush washer or lost it. Get another one, pull the bolt, plug the hole, put on the washer, refit. No need to burp the system as the drain is at the lower part of the cooling stream, no air will be introduced. Simply replace what drained out and you'll be good.

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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 10:28 AM
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Wrong wrong wrong owned ha

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 03:27 PM
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Can we /close now guys? :p
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 04:01 PM
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Can we /close now guys? :p
OP has sufficient info to fix his problem. You'd better clear the closing of the thread with it's owner first though
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 04:15 PM
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Can we /close now guys? :p

Yea it could've been closed after post 7 that guy kniws whats up for realz.

Boomm owned this thread boom ha

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