Searching has failed me, brake bleeding woes. - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 06:53 PM
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Searching has failed me, brake bleeding woes.

Just threw my new lines on and am in the process of trying to bleed the brakes, but for some reason I fail at it, lol. I'm not using speedbleeders, a vacuum pump, or any other type of pump. Just compressing the brake lever, opening bleeder valve, closing bleeder valve, then repeating. Air stopped coming out, as well has fluid. My brother is out right now pumping the brake lever trying to gain pressure in the lines, but something isn't working.

Any help?

Oh yeah, I know it's the wrong section, but it's an emergency.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:37 PM
 
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Are you putting fluid in the res as you are bleeding them? You can run out really fast as you are bleeding.




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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:40 PM
 
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Fill res
Pump brake
Brake gets tight, hold the brake lever
Crack the valve, lever goes in to the grip
Close the valve, pump the lever and so on.

Make sure the pumper checks the res to make sure it is still full. T




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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:43 PM
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I keep putting fluid in the res. When pumping there is minimal pressure building. I can get about .5 tablespoons out at a time, and that's it. Lever goes straight back to the grips when pumping. My brother pumped it for 10 minutes straight and it didn't build pressure. No leaks anywhere in the system either.
post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:45 PM
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i wouldn't even close the res. i keep it open and fill as needed.

but yeah trip's just about got it. squeeze, hold, crack, repeat. to speed the process along, you should have prefilled the lines. no sense to it now... you gotta remember there is a whole brake line worth of air in that system. you have to get rid of it, and it's going to take time.

this isn't a 10 minute job.
post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:46 PM
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I know this is a no branier, no leaks and all lines are holding fluid just to double check...

and your just doing lines so no pistion compression was done....

ive had this happen so many times on new prototype cars with new systems, and its very frustrating I know.

go through and assure yourself everything is sealer properly ( banjos and what not) thats all I can say for now wish I could be so much help sorry for wasting thread space haha
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:47 PM
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+1 on the cap, I have had that be a problem, leave it off for your bleeding process.
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:50 PM
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when swapping lines you have a TON of air in there... it will take a while with out a vac pump but it is very do-able...

A easier way to do this is to find 3 bottles, water bottles or whatever floats your boat.. Now zip tie one bottle close to each bleeder and make sure it is lower than the bleeder to allow for good run off...

Now take some hose that will fit snug on the bleeder and stick it on then let the other end touch the bottom of the bottle. Fill each bottle with enough brake fluid to cover the end of each hose...

Then bleed them that way, this will help you see the air come out and it will also prevent air from being sucked back into the bleeder if you arent being careful with it.

And remember, the master is a bitch when it comes to trapping air but just visit each one multiple times and you will get it



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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:52 PM
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but start with the left caliper and do it about 10 times, then move to the left caliper and then finish off with the master... then repeat. and repeat again if needed..



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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 07:52 PM
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iirc (and it's been a while) i left the caliper side bleeder open and pumped the shi t out of the lever to force the fluid down and out the bleeder. keep a damn good eye on the res though.
post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:40 PM
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when swapping lines you have a TON of air in there... it will take a while with out a vac pump but it is very do-able...

A easier way to do this is to find 3 bottles, water bottles or whatever floats your boat.. Now zip tie one bottle close to each bleeder and make sure it is lower than the bleeder to allow for good run off...

Now take some hose that will fit snug on the bleeder and stick it on then let the other end touch the bottom of the bottle. Fill each bottle with enough brake fluid to cover the end of each hose...

Then bleed them that way, this will help you see the air come out and it will also prevent air from being sucked back into the bleeder if you arent being careful with it.

And remember, the master is a bitch when it comes to trapping air but just visit each one multiple times and you will get it
That did it. Bled each caliper by just pumping with a watter bottle full of fluid on the bleed end and started gaining pressure.

Brake pads are completely toast now. :( I have full line pressure, but no real stopping power until I pull about 3/4". I hope my JL pads where shipped out today.
post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:42 PM
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how did you toast your pads?



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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:47 PM
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Used them far more then I should have, lol. I started hearing that screeching noise a few minutes into my ride.
post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:51 PM
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and how many miles do you have on your bike?



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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:54 PM
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3098 as it sits in my garage. I know it's not a lot, but in the past 800 or so miles I started using the brakes more rather then engine braking just to get a feel for if I need to change the lines or not.
post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:55 PM
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my 04 brakes just got replaced you must be a madman lol
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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:57 PM
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my 04 brakes just got replaced you must be a madman lol
Haha, maybe. Just checked and I have about 3mm of pads left.
post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 08:57 PM
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thats a hell of a lot of brake use to wear out a set of pads in 3k miles on the street. something doesnt seem right
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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 09:02 PM
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thats a hell of a lot of brake use to wear out a set of pads in 3k miles on the street. something doesnt seem right
Tell me about it. Fastest I'll go is 5 over the limit or with the flow of traffic, so mostly riding and braking at 50mph. I must have gotten bad pads or used pads when I bought the bike. I can't even come close to figuring out how I used over half of the pads in such a short distance.
post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 09:21 PM
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lemme see your pads.
post #21 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 09:23 PM
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yeah, something isnt right because your pads should last about 15-20K miles on the street, some will even last longer.. There is no way you used them all up in 3K miles unless they were all track miles..



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post #22 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 09:33 PM
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lemme see your pads.
When my new pads come in the mail I'll save the old ones to take a picture when I eventually get a new camera. Gotta wait for some money to get into my mom's account so I can have a b-day present. :D
...unless you want me to take a pic with a disposable camera I'm getting developed in a few days and mail you one of the prints.
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yeah, something isnt right because your pads should last about 15-20K miles on the street, some will even last longer.. There is no way you used them all up in 3K miles unless they were all track miles..
Bike hasn't touched the track. I'm still trying to figure it out.

Never done any stoppies either so that wouldn't be a cause.
post #23 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 09:53 PM
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i'll bet $10 your pads look just like this:

post #24 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 10:02 PM
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They do, he has 3.2mm of pad left which is still fine.. He was thinking that they are 1/4" pads new.. and I dont think they are that thick.



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post #25 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 10:06 PM
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They do, he has 3.2mm of pad left which is still fine.. He was thinking that they are 1/4" pads new.. and I dont think they are that thick.
You're right, they aren't.

Demented, you don't need pads bro.
post #26 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 10:09 PM
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Rear is a little over 5mm. Kinda figured they would be the same thickness. :/ Stupid Honda.

I'm putting new pads on anyway. Why not if I have them on their way to me, lol. I'm going to try bleeding the lines some more tomorrow.
post #27 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 10:14 PM
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whatever you think you need to do bro... i know you're in a fix right now, just looking out for ya.
post #28 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 10:21 PM
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whatever you think you need to do bro... i know you're in a fix right now, just looking out for ya.
Thanks man. I ordered them before I was injured, they where just on back order. Wasn't really planning on the injury thing, but at least I'm guranteed an easy win with suing. I'm looking at a minimum of $10k in winnings, and that's just if it's a strained muscle like the docs said. Torn or carpol tunnel, and it goes up.
post #29 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 10:25 PM
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could always list them here and sell them.
post #30 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-07-2008, 10:28 PM
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could always list them here and sell them.
I was thinking about that, but I like the feeling of brakes just biting into the rotors. Racing has ruined me.
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