Very Low Idle then dies Help!! - 600RR.net
Troubleshooting Having trouble with your bike? Common know issues or trobuleshooting questions here.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
Joszer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Norcal
Posts: 206
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Unhappy Very Low Idle then dies Help!!

Hey guys I have a 03 600rr. D&D Slip on, PCIII with map, and 1000rr Front forks. My bike was running completely fine yesterday, and yesterday being my day off i decided to clean up and adjust my chain as well as give my bike a wash since it was dirty.

I put the bike on a stand, cleaned up the chain with a brush and relubed it, tightened the chain a little since there was some slack then finally gave her a wash. The bike turned on perfectly while cleaning the chain. After everything was finished I went took a shower, came back to the bike to fill her up with gas and this is where the trouble started happening.

I turn the key, everything lit up, hit the ignition, it cranked over, started to idle very low then died. I did this a couple of times and same thing happened. This morning i replaced my battery, "it was long overdue anyways", and it started up fine. I then was gonna go on my way to the gas station when it just died on me. I turned it on again but i had to keep on giving it throttle so it would not die.

The Red oil light is on, I checked my oil window and there is oil in there. i replaced the filter and added new oil less than 500 miles ago.

I have no clue what is going on. Someone please help me out.
Joszer is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 04:08 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
if the light is on that means it's not getting a reading, or getting too low of a reading from the OPSU. has the bike been in a right side incident? check the connections to the OPSU.
post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 04:10 PM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
doofiep007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clermont
Posts: 936
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
when giving it gas to keep it running does it sound like a rough idle? Sounds like fouled plugs...did you idle the bike for a minute then shut it off before you washed it? If my bike never warmed up before I shut it down it would foul.

doofiep007 is offline  
 
post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
Joszer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Norcal
Posts: 206
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightslugger View Post
if the light is on that means it's not getting a reading, or getting too low of a reading from the OPSU. has the bike been in a right side incident? check the connections to the OPSU.
It was in a left side accident actually. One question though, what is the OPSU? I just got the manual from raydog and currently looking through it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by doofiep007 View Post
when giving it gas to keep it running does it sound like a rough idle? Sounds like fouled plugs...did you idle the bike for a minute then shut it off before you washed it? If my bike never warmed up before I shut it down it would foul.
After cleaning the chain I washed it, the bike was on while I was cleaning it. I shut it off, waiting a bit for the motor to cool, then I started to wash it. How would I fix fouled plugs?

Sorry if i seem really noobish guys, this is my 1st bike and I am still learning the ropes on how to work with it.
Joszer is offline  
post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 04:29 PM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
seems like you might have fried your ECU somehow. it may have overheated in the summer heat. getting lights and weird idle etc... i'd suggest swapping ECU's with a buddy who has the same bike and see how it goes. i also agree that you should check the plugs (or at the very least make sure a coil hasn't come loose etc.... how many miles on the bike? they should be checked every 16K and replaced every 32K per the manual (they're iridium-tipped so they last a long time). i just got done doing my valve adjustment, starter valve synchronization and inspection of the plugs (16K mile service). valves were w/in spec, starter valves were WAY off and plugs looked good. I would suggest a starter valve synchronization. it makes your idle much smoother.

also, it could be your power commander has failed, so if the other stuff fails you may want to disconnect your PC and see how it runs with the stock primary injector connectors plugged straight in.

BEFORE ANYTHING- TRY TURNING YOUR IDLE ADJUSTER SCREW RIGHT TO RAISE THE IDLE! MAYBE SOMEONE JUST F'D WITH YOUR IDLE SCREW!

Last edited by Dr. GoFast; 07-25-2008 at 04:35 PM.
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 04:36 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joszer View Post
It was in a left side accident actually. One question though, what is the OPSU? I just got the manual from raydog and currently looking through it.
Oil Pressure Sending Unit.



Quote:
After cleaning the chain I washed it, the bike was on while I was cleaning it. I shut it off, waiting a bit for the motor to cool, then I started to wash it. How would I fix fouled plugs?
Depending on how many miles you have, you may be able to repair them. Look through your owners manual and read up on the Flooded motor procedure. otherwise you buy new plugs and install them.

Quote:
seems like you might have fried your ECU somehow. it may have overheated in the summer heat.
Horse-radish.

Quote:
starter valve synchronization ... starter valves were WAY off ... I would suggest a starter valve synchronization.
what the heck is a starter valve?
post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 04:47 PM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
the only reason i suggested the ECU deal is because my friend with an '04 gixxer 750 had this very same issue and as soon as he swapped out his ECU- it's been fine ever since....

starter valves.... check your service manual pg. 6-86..... the starter valves are equivalent to the idle-circuit throttle bodies... cbr throttle bodies are preset by the factory and cannot be synched. however, the starter valves / fuel enrichment circuit screws CAN be synchronized and so since I was in there and i have a vaccuum gauge- i did it. and i'm glad i did because they were way out. i'll definitely do it again when i check my valves and replace my plugs at 32K. synching them makes your idle much smoother so your exhaust note is super steady once you get your idle adjustment screw in just the right "sweet spot" which for me is right at 1.4K rpm.

as a side-note, i discovered that simply disconnecting and re-connecting the black electrical wiring harness input from the backside of the gauge display unit will reset the failure code you get after the sync, so you don't need to buy their cheesy wire-shorting tool.

Last edited by Dr. GoFast; 07-25-2008 at 05:00 PM.
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 05:01 PM
Pocketbike Racer
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: WPB, FL
Posts: 345
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
something very similar happened to my buddies 636. we ended up just adjusting the idle and it sloved the problem. id give it a try, only take like a min.

2003 CBR600RR- BMC race filter, DIY stacks,-1 front sprocket,
Engine ice, motul syn. oil, yoshi rs5 slip-on, 5000k HID, BT016,
Speedohealer, Power commander, 05 front fairing conversion
2002 Ram 1500 QC 5.9L 4x4
Bigpappaholt is offline  
post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 05:13 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 190
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I'm gonna have to agree with the oil pressure sending unit observation. Your oil light will only come on if its not detecting correct oil pressure. This of course is assuming that the bike is running. if you turn the key on the oil light will come on regardless until its started

Otherwise, you have an idle adjuster on the left side of your bike see if you can adjust your idle to make it run better.
Flipper is offline  
post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 05:24 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
forgot to mention, there is no oil level sensor. if the level is too low, chances are your pump will start sucking air, dump all the oil out of itself, and set off the OPSU sensor. if you check the level while the bike is on, and it reads good, chances are very high that it's running with zero pressure.

as for the ECU... about as likely as a flat tire causing the problem. that is to say, not likely. now, if he gigged the MAP sensor vacuum line and it's low on vac, but not enough to send a MIL, that will also cause bad idle, as will a futzed with idle circuit or mal-adjusted idle adjuster if so equipped (2007-2009 are automatically metered and adjusted)

Thanks for the heads up on the Starter Valve Syncro GoFast! Can you tell me, what is the purpose of the starter valve?
post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 05:33 PM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
the starter valves are the equivalent to the pilot jets on a carburetor. they serve to allow fuel and air through the throttle bodies with the throttle fully closed (idle). obviously, when they're synchronized, giving the exact same fuel and air to each cylinder- the idle is smoother and the engine is more balanced at idle and when throttling on and off.

Last edited by Dr. GoFast; 07-25-2008 at 05:36 PM.
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 05:47 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. GoFast View Post
the starter valves are the equivalent to the pilot jets on a carburetor. they serve to allow fuel and air through the throttle bodies with the throttle fully closed (idle). obviously, when they're synchronized, giving the exact same fuel and air to each cylinder- the idle is smoother and the engine is more balanced at idle and when throttling on and off.
Quick question on that... and i do not mean to highjack the thread, but rather gain a little more insight to the potential issue...

If the Velocity Stacks are varied in length from the factory, wouldn't synchronizing the Starter Valves based off #3 create a rich burn for cylinders 1 and 4? as i'm reading it in the book, that's the determination i'm getting... but it might not have anything to do with it.
post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 06:00 PM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
no, it wouldn't because my previous post was slightly incorrect. the synchronization has to do with how much vaccuum pressure each cylinder is pulling. yes, you are correct, the velocity stacks for 1 and 4 are higher than 2-3. however, i found that my 2 and 4 cylinders read higher values on the gauge and that 1-4 and 2-3 were in no way correlated. it looked approximately like this before i synched:

1----O--------
2--------O----
3-----O-------
4--------O----




i don't know how to answer your question and i don't know why you think higher velocity stacks affect the synchronization. i don't think the official Honda service manual would tell you to do something that makes no sense. the proof is in the pudding- the idle is smoother.

Last edited by Dr. GoFast; 07-25-2008 at 06:20 PM.
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
Joszer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Norcal
Posts: 206
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper View Post
I'm gonna have to agree with the oil pressure sending unit observation. Your oil light will only come on if its not detecting correct oil pressure. This of course is assuming that the bike is running. if you turn the key on the oil light will come on regardless until its started

Otherwise, you have an idle adjuster on the left side of your bike see if you can adjust your idle to make it run better.
When i Turned it on this morning it was idling fine, 1500 rpms. When I rode it half a mile and got to a stop it just died. After that every time i would turn it on it would idle at 1000ish for 2-5 seconds then immediately die. Right now I am in the process of checking the spark plugs to make sure they are good.
Joszer is offline  
post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 06:07 PM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
there is also the notorious regulator/retifier issue which creates similar problems.....
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 06:22 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. GoFast View Post
there is also the notorious regulator/retifier issue which creates similar problems.....
your right, they really do. but other symptoms like not enough juice to crank over after shut down, or dieing while riding, unable to restart afterwords. low battery voltage while running would cause a low or crumbling idle as well.

and since he does have a 2003, that might be worth investigating.
post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
Joszer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Norcal
Posts: 206
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
I pulled out the plugs and they looked like this...



The electrodes are not rounded but one did have oil on it. I am just going to replace them all. Hopefully that does the trick.
Joszer is offline  
post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 06:57 PM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
how's the gap? those look pretty rich. mine were much lighter brown. is your power commander dyno-tuned or are you using the online map? how's the gap? it should be .04 of an inch if i'm not mistaken. you don't need to replace them if they're ok! how many miles do you have? those MFERS ARE EXPENSIVE MAN! $18 a piece!
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 06:57 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
learn to use the macro
post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
Joszer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Norcal
Posts: 206
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. GoFast View Post
how's the gap? those look pretty rich. mine were much lighter brown. is your power commander dyno-tuned or are you using the online map? how's the gap? it should be .04 of an inch if i'm not mistaken. you don't need to replace them if they're ok! how many miles do you have? those MFERS ARE EXPENSIVE MAN! $18 a piece!
I have on online map on my Power Commander, it has been working fine for the past 18 months, I have never had a problem with my bike up until now. As far as the gaps go, they are fine. I have 23,000 miles on the bike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightslugger View Post
learn to use the macro
sorry, what's the macro? If you are reffering to the photo's sorry, I just have a camera phone on me at the moment.

Last edited by Joszer; 07-25-2008 at 07:18 PM. Reason: updated text
Joszer is offline  
post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 07:19 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
i am. thanks.
post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
Joszer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Norcal
Posts: 206
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
What are the odds of getting water inside the fuel system or into any of the components that would be essential to running the motor?
Joszer is offline  
post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
Joszer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Norcal
Posts: 206
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
**Update**
I just swapped out the spark plugs with the OEM honda ones. Bike turned on fine! I let it idle for 6 minutes and it did not sputter off. The idle would jump between 1.5k and 2k but I adjusted it to 1.4k like it was before. Once i get all the fairings and radiator bolted up, ill give it a test run. Hopefully it works.

*Crosses Fingers*

PS. Spark plugs are expensive!!!! $80 wtf!
Joszer is offline  
post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-25-2008, 09:13 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joszer View Post
**Update**
I just swapped out the spark plugs with the OEM honda ones. Bike turned on fine! I let it idle for 6 minutes and it did not sputter off. The idle would jump between 1.5k and 2k but I adjusted it to 1.4k like it was before. Once i get all the fairings and radiator bolted up, ill give it a test run. Hopefully it works.

*Crosses Fingers*

PS. Spark plugs are expensive!!!! $80 wtf!
they are pretty specific plugs, and they are supposed to last a rediculously long time.
post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-26-2008, 02:13 AM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joszer View Post
**Update**
I just swapped out the spark plugs with the OEM honda ones. Bike turned on fine! I let it idle for 6 minutes and it did not sputter off. The idle would jump between 1.5k and 2k but I adjusted it to 1.4k like it was before. Once i get all the fairings and radiator bolted up, ill give it a test run. Hopefully it works.

*Crosses Fingers*

PS. Spark plugs are expensive!!!! $80 wtf!
your plugs were fine dude. you just waisted $80. your online map is not optimal- your plugs show that your mixture is far too rich (they're dark as hell). you could've just cleaned them and put that $80 toward a dyno-tune. anyway, if installing the new plugs works for the long-term, i'll eat my words. manual says to replace plugs every 32K, and most anything a manual says is conservative (except their 8000 mile oil change interval which is rubbish- they just have to say that so they comply with environmental regulations FYI). if one of your plugs had oil all over it- it is oil fouled, which means that one of your cylinders may be lacking compression and/or that particular coil/spark plug is defective. have you inspected your valves at all?

2004 Honda CBR600RR
-Spiegler SS lines f+r
-Woodcraft rearsets
-Woodcraft Clip-Ons
-GPR Steering Damper
-Vesrah RJL brake pads
-Elka 3-Way Shock
-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
-Tanktredz

Last edited by Dr. GoFast; 07-26-2008 at 02:16 AM.
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-26-2008, 02:19 AM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joszer View Post
What are the odds of getting water inside the fuel system or into any of the components that would be essential to running the motor?
not great if the coolant is changed every 2 years and the engine gaskets are in good shape. coolant gets in the oil mainly on older bikes that have been sitting for a long time. i believe it's caused by old coolant corroding the gaskets and water jackets.

2004 Honda CBR600RR
-Spiegler SS lines f+r
-Woodcraft rearsets
-Woodcraft Clip-Ons
-GPR Steering Damper
-Vesrah RJL brake pads
-Elka 3-Way Shock
-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
-Tanktredz
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-26-2008, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
Knee Dragger
 
Joszer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Norcal
Posts: 206
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. GoFast View Post
your plugs were fine dude. you just waisted $80. your online map is not optimal- your plugs show that your mixture is far too rich (they're dark as hell). you could've just cleaned them and put that $80 toward a dyno-tune. anyway, if installing the new plugs works for the long-term, i'll eat my words. manual says to replace plugs every 32K, and most anything a manual says is conservative (except their 8000 mile oil change interval which is rubbish- they just have to say that so they comply with environmental regulations FYI). if one of your plugs had oil all over it- it is oil fouled, which means that one of your cylinders may be lacking compression and/or that particular coil/spark plug is defective. have you inspected your valves at all?
I rode the bike around today and it worked fine. Seeing how rich I was running I put the stock 600rr map back onto the power commander. Maybe I did waste $80 but at least it works now =/. Considering it is basically my DD for the summer I don't mind it. I haven't checked out my valves yet. You think that my valves need to be readjusted? If so how tough of a job is it to do on these bikes, given the limited amount of work space. I can do it fairly quick on my Acura Integra, is it roughly the same procedure?
Joszer is offline  
post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-26-2008, 09:04 PM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
Dr. GoFast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,453
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
do you have a service manual? it's not hard to do- what's hard is actually GETTING TO THE VALVES. valves should be inspected every 16K per the manual.... i just got done inspecting mine, they were in spec, so i'm good to go 'til 32K now :D

you will need the manual to guide you through the process, you can check here for a decent summary of what's involved:

http://cbrworld.net/forums/1/248256/ShowThread.aspx

2004 Honda CBR600RR
-Spiegler SS lines f+r
-Woodcraft rearsets
-Woodcraft Clip-Ons
-GPR Steering Damper
-Vesrah RJL brake pads
-Elka 3-Way Shock
-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
-Tanktredz
Dr. GoFast is offline  
post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-26-2008, 10:44 PM
Knightslugger
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
by the looks of it, you'll need the gauges too...
post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-27-2008, 03:43 AM
AMA Supersport Racer
 
doofiep007's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clermont
Posts: 936
Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
My 03 fouled plugs all the time until I learned not to short cycle the warm up.(with the original plugs) Never had a problem since I replaced the plugs. And have never had a problem with the 04 track bike.

doofiep007 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the 600RR.net forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome