Overfilling Coolant - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Overfilling Coolant

I recently changed my coolant. I think I may of over filled it. It was at the very top of the radiator when I put the cap on. Can this affect my temperatures? Will it automatically bleed excess out? Do I need to remove some of this fluid? Will it automatically go to the resevoir? Thanks

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 02:04 PM
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I recently changed my coolant. I think I may of over filled it. It was at the very top of the radiator when I put the cap on. Can this affect my temperatures? Will it automatically bleed excess out? Do I need to remove some of this fluid? Will it automatically go to the resevoir? Thanks
so long as the air in the block was evacuated into the radiator, and you filled it to the top and capped it, it will bleed. with the cap on when you whack the throttle.
post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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I blipped the throttle until the radiator wouldn't drain anymore then topped it off, is that ok?

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Also if the temps run hot in traffic should I drain some and replace it with distilled water?

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 07:24 PM
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yeah, should be good. by hot what do you mean?
post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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sitting in traffic it seems to rapidly rise from ~180 to ~220 when the fan kicks in, then slowly goes up from there.

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-28-2008, 10:07 PM
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stop and go traffic or what?
post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-29-2008, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Stop and go traffic. The temp has never gone above 225 though

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 04:23 PM
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Normal for a CBR bro - it hit's 230 then start worrying - ride safe
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 04:57 PM
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Huh, I haven't ridden in anything super hot yet, but when the fan kicks in it always starts going down, never seen above 222.

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 04:59 PM
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so long as it goes down, you're fine. try not riding in a low gear?
post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Fresh Flush, now temp issues

I've had a couple threads going and I wanted to consolidate to answer the questions better. First off I recently did a coolant flush of my system. I did burp the air out. Coolant lvls look ok and the resevoir is near full hot.

When I first start the bike everything is fine it slowly climbs to about 184 and the thermostat opens up. The temp then drops about 15 degrees and slowly inches up from there. In stop and go traffic it can climb as high as 225 but always drops once I start riding. I've noticed now that even going around 40mph the temp will be around 194 and slowly inch up from there. I haven't had the chance to ride it long enough to find out how high it goes.

I've also notice there are temps when the gauge bounces back and forth from 191 to 194 for about 30 seconds then decides to climb. I've also noticed this at about 201 to 203, it will just jump back and forth from those two temps until it finally gets hotter or colder.

I'm just really worried that I messed something up when I did the flush and now the bike is going to suffer. Is it normal to run in the mid 190's cruising at 40-50 mph.

Thankps for all of your help guys I really appreciate it.

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 06:32 PM
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It's too hard for people to go back and find other threads you posted to see what you have and have not done. It causes redundant questions and confusion. Just stick to bumping your old threads back up.

1) What coolant did you use?

2) You need to have both the radiator cap AND the reservoir cap off when your trying to burp the system per SM.

3) When filling the radiator you should have had the bike upright and NOT on the side stand.

With that being said, your temps still seem quite normal to me.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-30-2008, 10:29 PM
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Is it normal to run in the mid 190's cruising at 40-50 mph.
If i could write just 'yes' i would, but there's a character minimum of 10 so i'm sure this sentence satisfies that requirement by now.

YES.
post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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It's too hard for people to go back and find other threads you posted to see what you have and have not done. It causes redundant questions and confusion. Just stick to bumping your old threads back up.

1) What coolant did you use?

2) You need to have both the radiator cap AND the reservoir cap off when your trying to burp the system per SM.

3) When filling the radiator you should have had the bike upright and NOT on the side stand.

With that being said, your temps still seem quite normal to me.

I used Prestone 50/50, it was what was at Advanced Auto at the time and I didn't want to pay the higher prices at the dealership. I had the radiator cap off but not the resevoir cap off, and I had the bike on a rear stand when I was filling and burping. I'm more worried that the temps don't act the same as they did before and I suppose as long as its not going higher than 225 in traffic I'm ok.

Thanks again for the help you guys provide I would be a wreck without the advice I get from you.

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by NewRedRider View Post
2) You need to have both the radiator cap AND the reservoir cap off when your trying to burp the system per SM.

3) When filling the radiator you should have had the bike upright and NOT on the side stand.
I don't understand how you figure this.

If the radiator cap is off then why would you also need to also open the reservoir cap? The hose to the reservoir is open and not needed when the radiator cap is off.

The bike is made so that the highest point in the system is at the radiator cap when the bike is on the side stand. This way when you run the bike to bleed it all the air will exit at the cap.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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I don't understand how you figure this.

If the radiator cap is off then why would you also need to also open the reservoir cap? The hose to the reservoir is open and not needed when the radiator cap is off.

The bike is made so that the highest point in the system is at the radiator cap when the bike is on the side stand. This way when you run the bike to bleed it all the air will exit at the cap.

I'm confused too, also with Knightslugger stating that the caps should be on when you bleed the system.

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 08:43 PM
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Notice that Note #3 says to ..."reinstall the radiator cap." So to me this clearly states that both caps need to be off during the burping process.

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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 09:53 PM
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I was not questioning if the radiator cap had to be off, I was curious why you think the reservoir cap must be off. I think the manual is worded in an unclear way. But that doesnt really matter. I am more curious where you learned that the bike must be upright and not on the side stand for the bleeding process.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-31-2008, 09:56 PM
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You know what? It doesn't fuckin matter. put coolant in the radiator, start it up, put more in, burp it, make a frickn mess if you must... there's a clean why to do it, and there is a potential environmental mess way to do it.

to be honest, i don't care which way you do it.
post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 04:37 AM
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I wasnt asking which way was the cleanest, I just wanted to know why you thought upright was better. To each their own then...
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 08:17 AM
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that wasn't me.
post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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You know what? It doesn't fuckin matter. put coolant in the radiator, start it up, put more in, burp it, make a frickn mess if you must... there's a clean why to do it, and there is a potential environmental mess way to do it.

to be honest, i don't care which way you do it.

I'm not questioning your method I'm just trying to understand the different mechanics behind both ways. I guess I don't really understand how it works with the caps off so I'm having trouble understanding how it works with the caps on. Again I really appreciate your help with this matter.

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 12:10 PM
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Radiator cap off - pressure cannot build in the coolant system - which is good when clearing the air....

Bike on sidestand is my method, your right it puts the cap on the high end and the pump on the low end which in my experience is the best possible situation for getting the air out.

Basic process is this - blip throttle - fill ratdiator, repeat till the coolant is at the neck i nhe radiator, during all this ensure the resivoir has coolant in it so it doesn't inject air back into your system at the radiator cap. Once no more gaps exist in the coolant at the top of the radiator - shut the bike down, cap the radiator and test the thermostat by running hte bike up to tempwith both caps on, monitoring the overflow.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 12:47 PM
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I'm not questioning your method I'm just trying to understand the different mechanics behind both ways. I guess I don't really understand how it works with the caps off so I'm having trouble understanding how it works with the caps on. Again I really appreciate your help with this matter.
Think Physics.

Thermal Expansion. As the water warms up, it expands. As it expands, air that was forced up the radiator now is pushed out the coolant overflow line, which produces fun little bubbles. when the bubbles stop as you're cracking the throttle, the catch tank's fluid level will rise slowly, indicating air is no longer in the system. as the water cools, it contracts, sucking coolant from the catch tank (thereby lowing it's level) keeping your system air tight.
post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Think Physics.

Thermal Expansion. As the water warms up, it expands. As it expands, air that was forced up the radiator now is pushed out the coolant overflow line, which produces fun little bubbles. when the bubbles stop as you're cracking the throttle, the catch tank's fluid level will rise slowly, indicating air is no longer in the system. as the water cools, it contracts, sucking coolant from the catch tank (thereby lowing it's level) keeping your system air tight.

Thank you for explaining it to me.

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-01-2008, 01:58 PM
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that wasn't me.
My bad Knight.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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I just realized that the coolant I put in may have silicate in it. How bad is this for the bike?

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 01:10 PM
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not immediately harmful.

what brand did you put in?
post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-04-2008, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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I beleive it was Prestone Dex Cool 50/50 extended life but I won't know for sure until I go home tonight and look.

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