High rev = problem, Need help. - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-13-2008, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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High rev = problem, Need help.

When I rev the engine past 9 or 10k rpm it cuts in and out until I bring it back under 10k. Almost like I am hitting the rev limiter. The engine runs mint under 10k.

I thought it might be the secondary fuel injectors but im not sure cause the manual says they kick in at 4500rpm. When I first start the bike it does not give me any errors or lights, but when it hits higher than 10k rpm it gives me the 2 error lights, but they turn off as soon as the rpms go back down.

Any ideas?

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 09:24 AM
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 09:32 AM
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some experience the same thing. most have narrowed it down to a loose battery connection.
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Sorta high-jacked another thread. Sorry.
https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=111316

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-14-2008, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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I ran her in the garage today, started her up, kept her in neutral, let her warm up all the way, then reved it right up to 15k, it ran perfect. Let it run a few more min, rev it a couple times back up to 14-15k its mint, then about the 5-6th rev up there I experience the same problem. Anything over 10k rpm it acts like it hits the rev limiter, and shows the HESD and FI lights for 1 sec, then when I release the throttle it goes back to running mint. Never stalls completely out. Then I rev it a few more times and sometimes, randomely it goes up to 15krpm smoothley then other times I have that prooblem.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KooL4444 View Post
I ran her in the garage today, started her up, kept her in neutral, let her warm up all the way, then reved it right up to 15k, it ran perfect. Let it run a few more min, rev it a couple times back up to 14-15k its mint, then about the 5-6th rev up there I experience the same problem. Anything over 10k rpm it acts like it hits the rev limiter, and shows the HESD and FI lights for 1 sec, then when I release the throttle it goes back to running mint. Never stalls completely out. Then I rev it a few more times and sometimes, randomely it goes up to 15krpm smoothley then other times I have that prooblem.
You might want to avoid revving the piss out of it in neutral. There's almost no load on the engine at all, so it spins up really fast and generally isn't great for the motor.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thats the only way I could test to see if the problem still exists, I dont want to be testing it at 50mph. I also dont want to spin my wheel on my stand. Do you have any suggestions on the best method to test for the problem after I start making changes?

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 10:22 AM
 
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 09:04 PM
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Dynojet PCIII? If you have put on even a slip on, you need to have the bike mapped. I put on a full system then downloaded the map from dynojet until I got a custom map, It was lean all over and especially around 10k. I could feel it hesitate on the track it was that bad. But is should have been better than the stock map im guessing.

I'm not an expert but that's something that could cause a lean mixture and it might even be more noticable once the bike is hot.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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Do I need a PCIII to rock my slip-on? I see how an improper mapping could be causing this. Has anyone else had any problems with a slip-on without any PCIII or any remapping?

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I could put my stock exhaust back on and see if that works.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-15-2008, 10:22 PM
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There's no way just putting on an exhaust or anything like that would throw you error codes etc. I even messed around with a straight pipe before I even had the Bazzaz with no tune or whatever and never had any problems whatsoever. It sounds like something electrical, or even injectors not getting juice. Like Knight said, check your battery connection, and other connections, anything else you've done to the bike lately, like the EGCV valve or anything? Does the power cut HARD like you're losing ignition, or does it lag like it's just not making power like it should at >10k?

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the battery voltage and connection, all good. The power cuts hard, the tach jumps down to 0 then back up then back down to 0. As soon as I let off the throttle it returns to normal operation. I am reading through the manual and it says under "stalls", to check that there are no air intake leaks. I will check that and the injectors tomorrow. Is there something I could put into the gas to clean out the injectors? Sorta like a carb cleaner does?

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 07:03 AM
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This came up on a earlier post but no one could show proof that it could damage the engine....I would get a new fuel pump on the bay, since they are about $30...I've gone through 3 of them already.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike6001 View Post
You might want to avoid revving the piss out of it in neutral. There's almost no load on the engine at all, so it spins up really fast and generally isn't great for the motor.


Last edited by doofiep007; 09-16-2008 at 07:06 AM.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2008, 06:31 PM
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same thing happened with my 06 ninja 636. except when it would hit 10k, it would THROW the RPMs back down kinda violently. It turned out that when we put it back together, we didn't plug in one of the EFI connectors. After that, it worked fine.

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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2008, 09:57 PM
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This came up on a earlier post but no one could show proof that it could damage the engine....
There's plenty of proof. Its not something that's going to make a healthy engine suddenly grenade, but it isn't good for it.
As there is no load the engine spins up way faster than it ever would in gear. That means you see much higher peak accelleration on the pistons and valves. That causes things like hammering on the connecting rods, valve train, seats, etc.

Its also proved by automatic car engines lasting a bit longer than manual car engines generally, as an automatic's engine is always under load (its always spinning oil in the transmission). I've worked in more than a few garages and this is definitely true.
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