Urgent-left hollow engine bolt head threaded, how to remove then? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Urgent-left hollow engine bolt head threaded, how to remove then?

hey guys,
was getting ready to install frame sliders, so i gave a spray of wd40 on bolts about that i will be removing to "aid" in removal, as the regulator bolts were softer then butter, as you could see them just try and slip apart and thread the head off, but soft and gently does it i removed them to gain access to the engine mount bolt..

so size 14mm "sidcrombe" socket wrench, (no cheap arse tool that aids in threaded bolt) trying to be gentle and firm but it just became threaded, no matter what i tried, but now the problem is going to be how will i remove it since its a hollow bolt?? cant drill it out for obvious reason its hollow..and its a hard spot to get a wrench too/monkey grips, i tried a spanner/file but no good thus far

so has anyone else had this problem and knows how to fix it..and fingers crossed the vortex bolt will fit in there to replace this one, although it stated on the packet to use 12mm bolt?? well one came with vortex is like 18mm and the one im removing is 14mm, where the hell is 12mm coming from..sigh

Ohlins- Fork Springs, Shock, S.D, UES Kit 20mm, PCIII, Velocity Stack mod, RS-5 C.F Yoshi, Dynoed, K&N Air Filter, Cox Radiator Guard, Powers Race Railz mod, MOTY Battery, Pazzo Levers, Harris Grips, Stomp Grips, Ram mounting, Custom Fairings, Custom led gauges, C.F -Hugger-Sprocket cover,Exhaust,Heel, Chain, Engine,& clutch guards. Trippage led pegs, 520 Conv, -1 +2 Superlight Sprocket, Comp werkes FE, Dunlop Q2's, EBC Kevlar Heavy Duty Clutch/Springs, Vesrah RJL Pads,Braided brake lines
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 12:41 AM
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Hallow or not, you can still drill it out. I'd get some new tools too. Proper sized ones should not strip bolts.
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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tools aside, but by drilling it out i will screw up the engine bolt area and so the new one fitting in will not be able to bolt into anything so to speak. so by drilling out will i then have to tap and die new larger sizing for a larger bolt? which in turn will screw up the sliders as they are set for the size of the bolt..
ie i drill it out, then the same bolt size will not refit due to me drilling out this bolt and making the hole larger..

or am i wrong? drilling out will not affect the hole for a new bolt to refit snuggly..

hope im being clear about it..

cheers

Ohlins- Fork Springs, Shock, S.D, UES Kit 20mm, PCIII, Velocity Stack mod, RS-5 C.F Yoshi, Dynoed, K&N Air Filter, Cox Radiator Guard, Powers Race Railz mod, MOTY Battery, Pazzo Levers, Harris Grips, Stomp Grips, Ram mounting, Custom Fairings, Custom led gauges, C.F -Hugger-Sprocket cover,Exhaust,Heel, Chain, Engine,& clutch guards. Trippage led pegs, 520 Conv, -1 +2 Superlight Sprocket, Comp werkes FE, Dunlop Q2's, EBC Kevlar Heavy Duty Clutch/Springs, Vesrah RJL Pads,Braided brake lines
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-15-2009, 12:55 AM
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You drill it out with a bit the same size as the threads. Once you get to where the head of the bolt falls off, you stop to prevent damage to the threads. That will release all pressure from the threads so you can just put a screwdriver in and loosen it up. You might need to use a torch to heat up the bolt some if it's loctited in. Might as well try heating it with a torch and then using some vice grips first.
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