idle adjuster? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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idle adjuster?

Ok well just today i started up the bike, let it sit for a little bit, and i noticed that it was idleing a little low, so i turned the adjuster just a little bit to the right and it dident do anything.. I turned the bike off and tried to start it but it wont start, and now the adjuster wont turn in either direction.. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009, 08:11 PM
 
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match and a gas can

or you pull the tank and find where the cable screws into the throttle bodies and see what happened
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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match and a gas can huh...
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009, 10:08 PM
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Hold the throttle wide open to start it. That will keep you from flooding the bike.

I've heard of the adjusters breaking... the only way to fix it is go under the tank and check it out.

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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ok im going to tear it down today, anything special i need to know about taking the tank off? any hints or tips would be helpful.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 12:00 PM
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when you lift it off... go ahead and unbolt the fuel line... it's a pain trying to balance the tank on the frame while working on it... It will spill a little fuel but it won't drain the entire tank... just a small stream for a few seconds.

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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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ight thanks man.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 02:10 PM
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turn it to the left instead. left = higher idle, right = lower idle. it requires a lot of force to turn it because it's made not to turn easily with the wind etc... so you may think it's stuck but it's really not. turn it HARD to the left.

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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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i tried everything, i got the tank off now and i still really cant get to it.. the adjuster is connected but it just wont turn...
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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yeah i just went back out and tried a pair of vise grips on it and it wont budge... it just cures up the rubber tubing.

OK heres a picture of what im looking at


the piece that is circled is screwed in all the way ( all of the threads are showing out the back) so im guessing that is keeping the idle way to low for the bike to start, i can not get it to turn with the adjuster, because it is to tight i assume, but is there any way i can turn the actual piece itself? There is no way i can get my fingers in there and there is not enough room to turn a pair of needle nose pliers..

Last edited by 03doubleR; 02-05-2009 at 02:56 PM.
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 02:58 PM
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dude- turn the adjuster HARDER! if the red circle in your picture is still connected IT'S FINE! don't do more work than you need to! like i said, that adjuster can SEEM like it's stuck, but in actuality it's not, it just need to be turned VERY hard. and remember, left makes the idle higher, and right makes the idle lower. you want 1300 rpm +/- 100 rpm according to the service manual. i run mine at 1400 cuz it gives a nice smooth pulse at that speed. it may also be a good idea to sync your starter valves while you're at it. that will make your idle silky smooth like a brand new bike. i synch mine at least every 8000.

2004 Honda CBR600RR
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-GPR Steering Damper
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-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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dude i have tried so hard, it just curls the whole thing up...
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Oh geez, it finally turned! with some help of some wd40! thanks alot for all the help! and btw how would i go about syncing my starter valves?

Ok now i have everything reconnected and the adjuster turned almost all the way to the left, and it still wont start.. it gets close to starting, but it just wont...? any ideas?

Last edited by 03doubleR; 02-05-2009 at 03:38 PM.
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 03:45 PM
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give it a little gas as you turn it over ^^. as for the starter valves, you'll need a manometer and you'll need to clamp your PAIR hoses if you haven't already blocked them off. it may be more trouble than it's worth, it's just a suggestion, i do it cuz i have a manometer and i have the block off plates installed on my PAIR valves so it's easy. i also like to have the silky idle. remember that when you set the idle- set it at normal operating temp 170-190 fahrenheit or so.

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-GPR Steering Damper
-Vesrah RJL brake pads
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-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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... still wont start.. :( i give it a little gas and it just wont completly turn over, it gets close but just wont start.. maybe i flooded it?
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 05:00 PM
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full throttle and start it. You want as much air to go into the motor as possible.

Ride hard today, Ride harder tomorrow,!
Walk close to Christ today, Walk closer tomorrow

How to fix headlights... Dreamzboy's excellent write-up
https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=138034
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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throttle all the way open and still no start... how should i have the idle adjuster set? all the way to the left?

Last edited by 03doubleR; 02-05-2009 at 05:09 PM.
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 05:18 PM
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charge your battery overnight and try again tomorrow. take a reading from your battery, what's it at?

2004 Honda CBR600RR
-Spiegler SS lines f+r
-Woodcraft rearsets
-Woodcraft Clip-Ons
-GPR Steering Damper
-Vesrah RJL brake pads
-Elka 3-Way Shock
-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
-Tanktredz
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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i got a bike charger for it, i let it charge for a while and i get the green light, so i know the batter is good to go. did i maybe flood the bike? im pretty sure i have everything connected right, i can hear the fuel pump prime, and it cranks but it just will not start...
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 05:55 PM
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I have never tried this... so it's only an idea. Starter fluid seems to work even if you put in a little or a lot. So it seems to work no matter what to get a motor running at least for a few seconds. ( I'm guessing it would work for a flooded motor) If you can get the motor to start even only for a few seconds... it should blow out the extra fuel and give you a nice puff of black smoke. Then the obvious desired result is an engine that's not flooded and running.

Just an idea... I don't think it will hurt anything but if someone has a better idea... chime in.

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Walk close to Christ today, Walk closer tomorrow

How to fix headlights... Dreamzboy's excellent write-up
https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=138034
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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I might give that a try, do you think it could be the plugs? where are they located, all i took off was the tank and i did not see them, are they on the other side?

EDIT: also, just tonight, i looked to see if the bike would throw a code and it gave me one long blink from the FI, that would be the Barometric� sensor right? and this would have something to do with the fuel injection system (Both spark and fuel)?

Last edited by 03doubleR; 02-06-2009 at 01:00 AM.
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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anyone...?
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 11:58 AM
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I don't know what the code does to the ECU but if you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the bike on... then the system is running and should deliver fuel and spark.

If the fuel pump doesn't prime... then you need to fix the sensor before the bike will start.

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so im not sure if that even is a code, i cant remember, when i turn the engine switch to on, the FI lights up and then turns off.. i dont think that is anything.. But yeah you can hear the fuel pump prime for like 2 seconds... So would that mean that the spark plugs are fine, and everything is connected right?
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 05:06 PM
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yep. the spark should be there.

Ride hard today, Ride harder tomorrow,!
Walk close to Christ today, Walk closer tomorrow

How to fix headlights... Dreamzboy's excellent write-up
https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=138034
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-06-2009, 05:50 PM
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yea, the FI light shows up when you first turn the ignition, that's normal. if it stays on for more than 10 seconds after you turn the bike on, then there's something wrong. it sounds like there's nothing wrong with your bike. i would suggest checking that your spark plug cables are securely fastened down. the way to access your plugs is to move the radiator out of the way. you don't need to take it off, just unbolt the mounting points and push it out of the way a bit.

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-Spiegler SS lines f+r
-Woodcraft rearsets
-Woodcraft Clip-Ons
-GPR Steering Damper
-Vesrah RJL brake pads
-Elka 3-Way Shock
-CRG gold levers
-Leo Vince Full Exhaust
-PCIII
-green painted rims
-puig d-bubble screen
-Pro-impact Frame sliders
-EK MVXZ 520 green chain w/ Pit bull sprockets (-1/+1)
- .9 kg/mm constant-rate fork springs +re-valving
-Tanktredz
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-07-2009, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so what all needs to come off to get the the spark plugs?
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-08-2009, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, so the manual says the radiator needs to flip down, but that looks like a pain, iv read that you can do it by removing the airbox? is this true? which way would be easier?
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-08-2009, 02:39 PM
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Dropping the radiator is not that bad, just a couple bolts and a couple hose clamps. I'd go that way before trying to snake through the airbox.
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-08-2009, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ok think I found the problem, i got the plugs out and they got alot of carbon build up on them, they are also putting out a VERY weak spark, how much do oem spark plugs run?

Last edited by 03doubleR; 02-08-2009 at 06:05 PM.
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