Throttle Adjustment Adjustment - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Throttle Adjustment Adjustment

I just installed a new/used engine in my 07' and it runs good. The engine has 87 miles on it and still needs to be broken in.

I'm having issues with the throttle while i'm on the road testing. When i'm on the throttle everything is smooth. When I let totally OFF the throttle, everything is also smooth. However, when i let off the throttle a LITTLE but not all the way, I get this jerking feeling in the trottle feeling like I can't keep it smooth. It's nothting dangerous but I want to be able to adjust for this problem. I tried the simple throttle adjustment on the handle bars but I havn't gone back into my throttle body at all. My chain is a little loose but not too bad. Could this be an issue?

Please let me know what you guys think.

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 08:19 PM
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Meaning the slow movement of the throttle feels jerky or the bike feels jerky?

If the throttle itself feels jerky... maybe you routed the cables wrong?

If the bike feels jerky... a loose chain certainly doesn't help. What RPMs does it feel jerky around? If it's right around 3K... then it's the exhaust valve opening and closing. Adjust your chain will help, and it's hard to hold the R's at 3K especially in first gear.

Sorry if I said stuff that you already know but I don't fully understand what you mean.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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IT could be the exhaust valve opening and closing. I put the spring back on but took the servo out. Think this is what's causing it?

My throttle is really quick and very responsive. Not like it used to be. If I hold the throttle opened and then slowly let the trottle off, there's a point were it just CUTS OFF immediately and if I try to hold it between off and on, the throttle is unstable.

Could this be because I removed the servo?

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-14-2009, 12:50 AM
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Man, I don't know... I've left my '07 pretty much stock. I guess one way to find out is to put the servo back in and see if it fixes it. I'm sure people have taken them out but I don't know what is required. It may be simple... or as complex and putting in a PC and a custom map to correct for the different exhaust.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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I'm pretty sure that i've fixed it. The problem was that I was trying to make my throttle play a little TOO nice. It seems as though there must be a LITTLE slack in it and the problem goes away.

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-17-2009, 03:40 PM
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Glad to hear you got it. Yea with the push/pull throttle cable system... you can make one cable too tight and they will put tension on each other. Tighten one... loosen the other. thanks for posting the fix... it will help people in the future.

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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WELP ~!!! it kinda sucks because I THOUGHT I fixed it. It's def. better but now at about 6.5 to 7000 RPMs, I get the erratic throttle control again. I'm thinking it's my FLAP from the exhaust servo. I'm gonna try and wire it opened and see if it works. I feel like right around 7000 RPM's the flap is catching and is trying to close and the spring is springing it back to the open position, thus making the erratic throttle control.

Kinda like "yut-uh-yut-uh-yut-uh".

If this doesn't work i'm going to take off the gas tank and air box and take a look at my throttle connections. ( I hate messing with those! )

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 10:09 AM
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Kinda like "yut-uh-yut-uh-yut-uh".
Wait so you were clutching up a wheelie?

YUT UGGHHH
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 10:32 AM
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^^^^^lmfao hahahaha

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 12:01 PM
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Your exhaust valve should be opening and closing around 3K... not 7K.

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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well, it would open and close at 3 if it were connected to the servo but it's disconnected and just has the spring attached to it so I'm thinking that it might just be catching at 7000.

OH AND TO RAWRR AND murphdog1411:
CLICK HERE

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 12:31 PM
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Bwhahahahaha
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 04:53 PM
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Why don't you have the servo hooked up? Removing the flap and servo is only a HP gain up to 3K RPMs. Other than that... it's more trouble to remove it cause it doesn't help anything.

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-18-2009, 05:12 PM
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your remembering to make the sound when trying to whoolie right? "YUT-UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH" hahahahaa

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 02-19-2009, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Yeh, I just removed it because I was taking "stuff" off my bike to make it more track oriented. I guess I just got carried away. I might just put it back on. I'm gonna try out with it back on and see what happens.

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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-09-2009, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Has anyone put the servo BACK on after taking it off? It seems like a pretty precise job to get right.

I'm still having trouble with my throttle being VERY jerky and having some erratic throttle between 6 and 7000 rpms.

I've adjusted my throttle at the throttle body and at the grip.

Anyone have this problem? I'm also having a SOLID FI light that will not go off. I"ve disconnected the battery and I've made the plug using the resistors and stuff from radio shack. The light never turned on until I took my air box off to adjust my throttle cable at the throttle body.

Ahhhh,,! this is sooo fustrating. I have a track day coming up and I'd like my bike to be running well.

Please help!

Thanks.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-09-2009, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Could it be a loose chain? Crooked rear tire? My chain isn't very loose and i'm going to try and align tonight.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-09-2009, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Just went home and disconnected the battery for about 3 min. Then connected the servo with out the cables attached and the FI light is still solid and the bike still has a jumpy throttle somewhere between 6 and 7000 RPMS if I slowly let off the throttle.

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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-10-2009, 12:06 AM
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I'd start with the servo. I've never put one back on or even taken one off so I don't know how easy or tough it is. The valve is either open or closed I believe so it shouldn't have to be a precision adjustment.

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-10-2010, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so, I have the servo back on and I'm still getting an erratic throttle on DE-acceleration only. right around 5k or so.. I've tried switching out the ECU but that didnt' change anything. Could it be my TPS ? It's fine to ride on the track with but in traffic it's kind of a slut because I have to gear all the way up to be able to de-accelerate with out the jerking. This has been a problem for me for a while now and I still cant' figure it out.

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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-15-2010, 05:37 PM
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Is there something you have to wire up when you remove the servo? also check all the connectors around the airbox including vaccum lines. Should also be looking into the cause of the FI light to be on.

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011, 01:31 PM
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Did you ever get this fixed? I have the same problem . . . :(
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 12:36 AM
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sounds like the problem i am having, after i replaced my throttle cables i started getting the jerky deceleration under 7000 rpms. also a jumpy idle when i start up the bike.

my FI code is 29 for the idle air control valve, so im trying to figure out whats wrong. i think you have to start the bike and put the kickstand down for the FI light to blink a sequence instead of solid, but im not sure

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 04-30-2011, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroPenguin View Post
sounds like the problem i am having, after i replaced my throttle cables i started getting the jerky deceleration under 7000 rpms. also a jumpy idle when i start up the bike.

my FI code is 29 for the idle air control valve, so im trying to figure out whats wrong. i think you have to start the bike and put the kickstand down for the FI light to blink a sequence instead of solid, but im not sure
You have probably knocked the plug off the IACV when you had it apart... you will find it on the throttle bodies...
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by AstroPenguin View Post
sounds like the problem i am having, after i replaced my throttle cables i started getting the jerky deceleration under 7000 rpms. also a jumpy idle when i start up the bike.

my FI code is 29 for the idle air control valve, so im trying to figure out whats wrong. i think you have to start the bike and put the kickstand down for the FI light to blink a sequence instead of solid, but im not sure
This might help too.

https://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=219132
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-02-2011, 11:17 AM
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you are describing a subtle problem....

i can feel what your talking about, a slight stumble on closed /decel throttle in between 5-7k rpm.... does not happen every time.

happens maybe 1 time in 7 ( tried it yesterday ).

2ndary injectors begin to open/close at this RPM?

have pcV etc, and have reset TPS several times to get values precise.

this helped but a trace of the stumble still can be felt.

it had the same thing but more pronounced w/the stock fuelling.
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dcope17 View Post
I'd start with the servo. I've never put one back on or even taken one off so I don't know how easy or tough it is. The valve is either open or closed I believe so it shouldn't have to be a precision adjustment.
When installing my CBRHeaven license plate holder, I had to unbolt the exhaust servo. While re-installing, I may have pushed-pulled on the cable. So maybe opening or closing the valve.

Should I be worried about the flap not being all the way closed when I reinstalled the bolts, or does the computer know how to reset the flap to its original closed position?

I ask because I see a 100-200rpm spike when in neutral or when the clutch is pulled in. My idle is around 1400rpm.
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