charging system or battery problem? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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charging system or battery problem?

I have an '05, but after viewing the pics posted on another thread, I have the older generation r/r. Is this possible? I have encountered charging problems. Here's what I've tested

Stator Resistance (@20 degrees C/68F): between all 3 pins = 0.5 ohms (within spec)
Stator output @ idle: approx. 24V from any of three pins to another
Stator output @ 5k : approx 80V from any to another

R/R output at idle (not connected to bat): approx 11.5V
R/R output at 5k (not connected to bat): approx 13.5-13.75V

Two days ago the bike started fine, I went to a 45 min drive (highway - well above 5k). When I came back, turned the bike off for literally 5 seconds, then went to start and the battery was so dead, when I tried, the entired cluster died and clock reset.

Still waiting for battery to charge to determine if battery is faulty.

Can anyone help?

Also, when started, should the bike be able to run without the battery? IE: I started the bike then removed the negative post and the bike died.

I bought a new battery and installed it and went for a highway ride. When I got back I turned the bike off then started it again. While doing so however, I monitored the battery voltage. With the bike off, the battery voltage was approx. 12.4. When I started the bike the voltage dropped a touch below 12V but then would not again rise above 12V, even when I reved the bike well above 5k (voltage stayed around 11.9-11.95V).
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 05:13 PM
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I had this same problem. It turned out the flywheel that circulates around the stator was bad. I had put two stators and a R/R on the bike before finally tracking it down. I dont know for sure that is your problem but it sounds very similar to the voltages and resistence I was getting from my bike. Well hope thisat least gives you a place to start.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 05:19 PM
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when the bike cools down dose it start ? i ask because these batteries can act up when there hott one of the plates inside the battery will pull away and not make contact when the battery is hot once it cools down it will make contact and start again . make sure its not the battery . i had this issue on my 03 .

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-12-2009, 05:45 PM
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Rectifier/ Regulator do act up when they get too hot and when you simply turn the key on to start the bike you get nothing no battery juice at all in these cases if you wait a few minutes for the Rectifier/ Regulator to cool down the bike will start right away



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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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So I went for a second ride on the new battery. I stopped once and the bike started (but I could tell I was getting low on juice) then I went to the gas station, turned the bike off, filled up, walked in and payed and when I came out the bike wouldn't start - battery dead. So it seems I can rule out the battery as the culprit. Do any of the voltages I listed above seem suspicious?

Also, does anyone know about whether or not the bike should be able to run without a battery? I disconnected the (-)ve from the battery while running and the bike died. Is this normal?

Scott7689 - Is the flywheel a seperate part from the stator. ie. if I buy a new stator will I not get a flywheel as well?

Thanks for the help everyone
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 10:55 AM
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The bike would not run without a Battery , its normal for the bike to shut off
when you disconnect one of the battery terminals . The fly wheel is a seperate
part all together its part # 2 in this image & # 3 is the stator




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Last edited by Moeman; 07-13-2009 at 11:00 AM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-13-2009, 11:02 AM
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Web link off bike bandit website
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...r-2005/o/m2057



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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-17-2009, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Replaced the Rectifier and all is well. Thanks for all your help/input everyone.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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So after riding for a week or so on my new battery and rectifier the problem persists. The battery will not charge when the bike is hot. What can I do to correct this? I have an 05 600rr; however, the rectifier/bracket assembly seems to be the one shown on the 04's. It is facing inward. I need some way of keeping the rectifier cool when the bike is hot. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009, 06:01 PM
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dude i have this exact problem . it is driving me insane i have a 04rr and i replace the reg and the batt. i am clueless. i made a thread as well
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 05:54 PM
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Did you guys ever figure anything out?

I am having problems with a 09 bought new a month ago. I replaced the battery as it probably sat in the bike and was weak to begin with when it died on me the first time.

Replaced the battery everything was fine for 3 or so weeks, then it wouldn't start again.

I tried to correlate the two instances of the battery failing, and came up with a connection:

When I tested the charging voltage with the bike running, the RPM suggested to test at is 5000 RPM. The first time the battery died I had taken my wife for a short ride to a local restaurant; a very short 6 minute ride at low RPM, probably 3000 max. The second time, I worked through lunch at work so left early to drive a few blocks away for some food before I went to my next appointment which was maybe 1.5 miles from there. Started at at the restaurant, was dead when I came out from my appointment.

My theory is that the batteries have such low capacity and resistance to stress that they give up rather easy.

For instance: You start it (draining capacity) and ride it lazily somewhere (no real charging going on) and park it, this places the batt above the engine so it warms up (stress) then when you show back up before it can cool down it tells you to go sit on a pineapple.

Both times I push started it to get home. I measured the voltage this morning before a ride and it was 12.6v, right after it was 13.2-13.0, 3 hours later right before posting I measured 13.5 volts (its a 2 week old battery).

I'm going to keep track of this for a while, but it seems to me that if you make a concerted effort to keep the RPMs up a bit, especially on short trips, this problem could be avoided. During my ride today, I kept my cruising RPM right around 5000 sometimes between 4 and 5000, rarely higher quick blasts and freeway riding aside and the battery seems to be fine.

Last edited by Nico; 09-18-2011 at 07:51 AM.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 07:56 AM
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If you are only riding it those kind of distances, your probably right. You need to give it a chance to charge, and the voltages you listed sound fine.

Also, don't disconnect the battery while the bike is running like the op did, that is a good way to blow something up.
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