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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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No rear brake

I did a search for bleeding brake lines and such and haven't found anything useful. I swapped out my rear brake line after a retarded mistake I made that ended up in my old line being torn in half.

So I swapped out the line and everything hooked up well, but I still have no rear brake. It is a little stiffer than it was when the broken line was on there, but it still drops all the way down. I don't know if I'm missing something or just bleeding it wrong, but I need some help. Do you need a tube to bleed it, or can you bleed it without the tube? I worry riding around with no rear brake. You always need something when you don't have it. Any help is much appreciated.

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 10:21 AM
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There should be a pressue spring on the back side of the brake pedal
make sure that is hooked up



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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 10:23 AM
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This might help see what i am talking about PART # 5 is the sring stop switch




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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 10:25 AM
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If that is hooked up and all check the dial itself part # 4 switch RR stop that might not be dialed up right post back the results of both tests



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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 10:42 AM
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if all of your connections are tight make sure that you are bleeding correctly. open the bleed valve on the caliper and press down on the lever. close the bleed valve THEN let the lever come back to the rest position. repeat. if you are opening the bleeder valve and pumping away at the lever all you are doing is introducing more and more air into the system.

make sure you are keeping the reservoir full as well. if it runs dry then air will get into the system as well.

adding a rear line will make a big difference on the back brake. 99% of the time people have less brake on the back is because of user error when bleeding the brakes.


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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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The spring is all hooked up and returns to the right position and everything, just no actual brake. I think I might be bleeding it incorrectly. How many times to you do cycle through like you are saying?

(open bleed valve, push rear brake lever down, close bleed valve, release brake lever, repeat)

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TBR , Tripage, Gilles, ASV, Woodcraft, Rizoma, Watsen
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 11:50 AM
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I use a cheap one man brake bleeder that I got for about 6 bucks in autozone. It inserts into the hole in the bleed valve and you put a small amount of fluid in the provided bottle to prevent air going back up the hose. Works great for me.
Bleeding the brakes can take a little while to get everything cycling properly and all the air out.
My fronts took forever when I did a caliper swap. Be patient. I also found that just barely cracking the bleed valve open worked better for me.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 11:59 AM
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get a tube(about 3' in length)and a old bottle(fill the bottle with a little bit of water) Bleed away(there should be some good write ups I remember posting a few years ago) its going to take a while since your whole line is full of air.(If you replace lines again just fill them with brake fluid then attach them to the caliper.) Also make sure you have them torque to the right value.

Matthew
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthscrapE View Post
The spring is all hooked up and returns to the right position and everything, just no actual brake. I think I might be bleeding it incorrectly. How many times to you do cycle through like you are saying?

(open bleed valve, push rear brake lever down, close bleed valve, release brake lever, repeat)
it depends. you want to make sure all the air is out. if you have the system closed up (reservoir cap on,etc.) then once you close the bleed valve you should start getting brake. keep going until your brake is where you want it to be.

if you want, you can give me a call. ill be more than happy to go over a few things over the phone. its sometime better to convey what you mean that way versus writing it out.

brad


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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 12:34 PM
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Just a question about this topic, but I have Woodcraft rearsets and they have no place for the pressure spring in the MC.

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2008 CBR600RR "Graffiti"

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help guys. I guess I just assumed it was good since the brake fluid was coming out the bleed valve, but I guess there is prob still a lot of air in there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lexusrx View Post
it depends. you want to make sure all the air is out. if you have the system closed up (reservoir cap on,etc.) then once you close the bleed valve you should start getting brake. keep going until your brake is where you want it to be.

if you want, you can give me a call. ill be more than happy to go over a few things over the phone. its sometime better to convey what you mean that way versus writing it out.

brad
If I take the reservoir cap off, will it be easier to bleed? (ie; make it flow through the system better) or is it better to leave it on?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineJim View Post
get a tube(about 3' in length)and a old bottle(fill the bottle with a little bit of water) Bleed away(there should be some good write ups I remember posting a few years ago) its going to take a while since your whole line is full of air.(If you replace lines again just fill them with brake fluid then attach them to the caliper.) Also make sure you have them torque to the right value.
What is the purpose of the water in the bottle? just so it won't eat through?

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TBR , Tripage, Gilles, ASV, Woodcraft, Rizoma, Watsen
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Exhaust install 07-08 (possibly 09-10?)
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 03:23 PM
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Water in the bottle is to prevent air from being sucked back up thru the tube and into your caliper. Also makes it easier to see the air bubbles in you fluid. When you see no more bubbles, you're good to go.
I usually use brake fluid instead of water(in the bottle)
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthscrapE View Post
(open bleed valve, push rear brake lever down, close bleed valve, release brake lever, repeat)
umm, did no one else catch his mess-up?

I believe its

close valve, press brake lever (keep it pressed), slowly open the valve, press the fluid out, keep pressure on the brake, and dont let it go completely down, then Close valve.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lexusrx View Post
if all of your connections are tight make sure that you are bleeding correctly. open the bleed valve on the caliper and press down on the lever. close the bleed valve THEN let the lever come back to the rest position. repeat. if you are opening the bleeder valve and pumping away at the lever all you are doing is introducing more and more air into the system.

make sure you are keeping the reservoir full as well. if it runs dry then air will get into the system as well.

adding a rear line will make a big difference on the back brake. 99% of the time people have less brake on the back is because of user error when bleeding the brakes.
I'm basing it off what lexus said here. Let me know if it is incorrect. makes sense this way. Your way makes sense too, but sounds more difficult.

2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti
TBR , Tripage, Gilles, ASV, Woodcraft, Rizoma, Watsen
Install Videos:
IT Install - From Stock
IT Install - From Aftermarket
Exhaust install 07-08 (possibly 09-10?)
LED Peg Install
HID Delay Install

Last edited by StealthscrapE; 07-22-2009 at 05:34 PM. Reason: me spell no good
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProWakeskater View Post
umm, did no one else catch his mess-up?

I believe its

close valve, press brake lever (keep it pressed), slowly open the valve, press the fluid out, keep pressure on the brake, and dont let it go completely down, then Close valve.
have cap open and read to add more fluid as need
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaboy945 View Post
Just a question about this topic, but I have Woodcraft rearsets and they have no place for the pressure spring in the MC.
You need to buy a pressure switch banjo bolt...

Matthew
03' 600rr - Track
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpineJim View Post
get a tube(about 3' in length)and a old bottle(fill the bottle with a little bit of water) Bleed away(there should be some good write ups I remember posting a few years ago) its going to take a while since your whole line is full of air.(If you replace lines again just fill them with brake fluid then attach them to the caliper.) Also make sure you have them torque to the right value.
DO NOT BY ANY MEANS PUT WATER NEAR AN OPEN HYDRAULIC SYSTEM!!!!! Brake fluid absorbs moisture

fill with DOT4 fluid and just keep bleeding, try open/close method or the pump up and open method make sure you have the bleeder screw closed when you let off the pedal.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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bumping this up because I'm still having trouble trying to bleed without a tube on the bleed valve. Two different things have been said about the pattern to do it (open valve, pump, close valve, etc.) Thanks for any help.

2008 CBR 600RR Graffiti
TBR , Tripage, Gilles, ASV, Woodcraft, Rizoma, Watsen
Install Videos:
IT Install - From Stock
IT Install - From Aftermarket
Exhaust install 07-08 (possibly 09-10?)
LED Peg Install
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