Training Wheel Hero
Join Date: Mar 2010
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This is a response from another forum in case it has anything helpful to anybody:
First of all, just because you don’t have a code does not mean a sensor is not defective. Keep in mind how the new fuel injection systems works with the sensors. It has everything to do with voltage. A code will not show up if the sensor is still within its limits. An easy way to think of this is, you have a min and max spec for all sensors before a code will indicate an error. Well, lets say that limit is 0.4 – 0.6 volts through a sensor. If the sensor at full throttle should be getting 0.6 volts, but it is really getting 0.4 volts there would not be a code and the bike would still run like ass. In this example, a code would show up if the voltage got below 0.4 or above 0.6. (these numbers are just an example).
You said your bike went swimming for a little while. Well, you could have a voltage drop through a sensor causing your bike to act up only during the point when it requires a higher voltage at the point (or rpm) in time. If you have a voltage drop (or increase) across a sensor then could affect the entire system (fooling it to run different that it really should). Voltage at the different sensor is very critical on the new bikes.
I would suggest looking more into the STVA (secondary throttle valve actuator) and the STP (secondary throttle position) sensor. I am not sure if Honda uses the same terms, but that is what Suzuki calls the parts. Here is my thinking. Have you heard of the different rider setting on the newer GSXR1000’s (A, B, C). Well, the way it controls how much power gets the rear wheel is by controlling the STVA. If you have the throttle wide open, but the secondary throttle valves are slightly closed, the bike will not get as much air through the throttle bodies and your bike will not rev up as much resulting in less power. Now that is to the extreme, but you see my point. Sure there is fuel mapping involved too, but the main restriction is the STV.
Back in 2005-2006 many GSXR’s had defective STVA and throttle bodies were replaced left and right.
I am not sure of the Honda diagnostic tester, but Suzuki’s SDS (Suzuki Diagnostic System) can be hooked up and record all the sensors as you ride it down the street. This is very handle to “map” what the customer’s bike is doing. The bad thing is you have to have “maps” from a stock well operating bike to compare it too and you have to have the skills to read the two “maps”. Side note, dealer have to record there own maps so not all dealers will have stock maps recorded.
If you are not able to test the input and output voltage for the sensors, then you could do it another way. I am not sure if it will work on a Honda, but unplug the secondary throttle position actuator and the bike should go into a safe mode. Check to make sure the secondary throttle valves are completely open and stay open. Go out and ride the bike to see if you can get higher RPM. Keep in mind, your bike may run like ass at lower rpms. Read through the service manual first just to make sure what to unplug and only have one sensor unplugged at a time.
All my thinking is going off Suzuki’s.